metalfanmartin

It would appear so! It's due for a 12m service, I wonder if I should just ask the mechanic to clear the codes, or whether they're gonna try and charge me heaps for it

Thanks for the reply mate. Still showing the error codes I've even tried plugging an OBDII thing in and clearing the codes, it didn't appear to do anything. Doesn't even show the codes on the OBDII? I must be doing something wrong lol.

Sorry, what? The yellow/orange P crossed out stays illuminated, the ABS stays illuminated, and the anti-skid light stays illuminated when the car is running. As far as I can tell the car is operating normally besides these.

2010 2.5L outback, petrol. 143,000k's. Wife called me yesterday, car wouldn't start (not turning over at all). Called roadside assistance, they deemed a crapped out battery. When I got home from work I replaced the battery with a brand new one, it was a bit larger CCA wise. Tried turning car on, it turned over but wouldn't fire. I pulled keys out, and then tried again. Car turned on fine. But a few error messages remain on the dash, picture included. I checked output of alternator, 14.5v. Seat belt and handbrake light do extinguish normally But not whatever the P with the crossout is? Any ideas what I should do? Leave it for a while and see if they'll clear themselves? Cheers

Hello legends! I'm after roof racks for my outback. But I have no idea what I'm looking for because of the roof rails on my outback. (picture related) I've found a second hand pair on an earlier model outback, they're Whispbar HD. Will these fit my outback?? Pictures related. If not, does anyone have any recommendations for some roof racks? Keeping in mind I am located in qld Australia :-)

Just to re-iterate, I am getting the shop to do it. I thought the belt was due at 125,000 kilometers? This is an Australian car by the way So a new radiator and hoses is a good idea? And how much would valve cover gaskets be, not too much if the cars already in for a belt change I'd hope? I havent had a chance to actually inspect the belt yet, I've put a deposit down and pick it up this week. Thanks for your input guys/girls.

Gday everybody, went ahead and bought a 2010 outback with 122,000km's on the clock. 2.5Litre manual. I'm gonna book in for the timing belt change including water pump. Is there anything else I should get done whilst they've got the car??

I'm also looking at a 2010 outback, 2.5L auto with 65,000ks on the clock. It's *almost* suspiciously cheaper than similar era outbacks, anything to look out for?

Thanks for all your input everybody! I'm not 100% sure if the Forester is a 2010 or 2011 model, looking up the rego it says 2010 but using VIN check it says 2011 compliance? So perhaps it's a 2010 with the ej.

Hello All, Long time no see. Sold my L-Series a while ago and now I'm looking at getting a Forester. Tomorrow I'm going to be inspecting a 2011 Forester, 2.5L Petrol Auto. It's done 82,000km's. Does anyone have any tips on what I should check for, what services should definitely be there etc. I wasn't sure what search terms to use to find out myself Cheers

Tha ks everyone for your replies. I (naively) never even realised air gaps could be such a thing, and a few things now make sense. When I squeezed the inlet pipe to the radiator it seemed empty, like it only had air in it. @DaveT - I refilled the radiator anyway, it's definitely not running empty. I'm pretty sure the original thermostat is in there, so I'll have a look when I get time.

G'day guys, I'm wondering how much coolant is in the radiator/cooling system, because I've tried draining the system (using radiator drain plug, and opening the radiator cap) to replace the coolant but I only end up getting maybe 2 litres of fluid once left for about half an hour. Is this about right? I did put the heater on and ran it for maybe 5-10 minutes, I'm wondering if the thermostat didn't open would this be holding back 3 litres. I could try again at another time when I've let the car really warm up properly. Reading online it says there's meant to be around 6quarts of fluid, which is around 5.5 litres. So I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong here. My car is a L-series 1990 4wd.

Thanks for that mate, I will pull it out again soon. From memory when I had it out, it was an enclosed unit? It had the float on an arm and all that, but it didn't look like I could just open it up. I'll give it a shot anyway.

Thanks for that captain dub, but unfortunately that doesn't help me much I don't think? Because when I earth the earth wire it goes to full, which gives me the impression the signal is getting to the gauge fine.

Damn, so I resoldered the connection and it doesn't appear to have fixed the issue. What should I do? Fuel gauge is still reading randomly. I earthed the earth wire and the gauge showed full.

Thanks rdweninger. I've pulled the plug off and investigated, it looks like the earthing wire had snapped off but I'm not sure if it was when I was prying off the goopy stuff. Will solder together and see how I go.

G'day, 1990 L-Series wagon. My fuel gauge is all over the place. Never goes to full, and goes all over the place. Doing some research I see that I need to check the sender unit wires. I'm not sure exactly how to do that. I've located what I assume to be the unit in the boot of my car. Please see picture attached. I tried pulling this plug looking item but it doesn't budge much, I wasn't game to try too hard so I've now come to ask you guys. What's my next step? Do I need to undo all the bolts? Cheers, Martin

Welcome mate! Hello from Ipswich haha

Thats awesome mate! Thanks for the pictures, looks like a great car. I recently picked up an L-series (what they're called here in Australia) and I love it!

Hello Stickfigure and welcome, that's a nice looking coupe there. I assume it's not on the road yet? Looks like an awesome find, very lucky!

Welcome to the boards Doc! What subaru do you have or have had?

Thanks DaveT I kinda thought the same thing, but honestly I've read about that fix a fair few times. I think I'll give it a go and report back!

Thanks DaveT I kinda thought the same thing, but honestly I've read about that fix a fair few times. I think I'll give it a go and report back!

Just doing some research people say to use dry graphite powder, will THIS do the trick? I also have access to isopropyl, should I clean the cable on both ends with that?

Thanks for the reply wagonist. By no play I mean the cable is quite short, very tight to put on the back of the cluster kind of thing. There definitely was some lube on the bit, but I'll pull it apart and put some more on. How much is too much? What kind of lube should I use? Do I clean the male and female connector then reapply? I just thought there was some kind of soldering to be done because I was fairly certain the thread I'm thinking of was for a similar dash that wasn't digital. I could obviously be very wrong. The only thing to still make me think it could be a loose contact/solder is because it seriously takes a very light tap to get the speedo working. Cheers for the reply mate.