nillvurt

Now that makes sense! Thank you! I will take it in to have that done once I do my front bearings and half shaft which is going out. After I get the rotors matched, should I replace the brake pads?

I read that also, so I'll try that next. As I understand it, the break in process is to gradually apply consistent even break force at higher and higher speeds. And avoid sudden and heavy braking for the first few hundred miles…

Thanks guys! Much appreciated! It seems to release fully, when I have it up on jacks there is little to no resistance when spinning the wheels. It has happened to three pairs of rotors, now been driving on the slightly warped Subaru rotors for 15K miles and not getting worse, but pretty annoying when going fast and slowing down. The braking works great, I can't say I ever new what this car braked like when new…but the same as the last 150K miles that I've had it. And I can't feel or hear any dragging on it. I'll inspect the pads when I get the rotors turned…I have never thought to do that, but I'll report back!

I'll give this a shot and see if I can see any coolant dripping out…thanks! I'll report back

Thanks for all the replies! What is the jiggle pin? So at 270K miles, is it normally a good idea to do head gaskets? If I do, what other gaskets should I do when I pull the engine? Cam tower, gasket between the engine and transmission, etc? Do I do anything to the lifters or change valves or anything like that while I am in there? I figure if there is anything that often fails in the depths of the engine, it would be a good idea to change that also while I'm in there. New engine mounts?

So I keep doing my front brakes on my 94 Subaru Loyale. My rear drums are re-lathed so I know they are round. At first I thought it was the crappy aftermarket rotors I was getting, which would go out of round after about 1000 miles. So I bought all new Subaru rotors and pads and the same thing happened, albeit after a bit longer. I am at a loss. One mechanic said that sometimes the splines on the hub will be worn and put play in the system and put it out of wack, so I changed the passenger side hub too, since that is where I have done the most work and had to change multiple axle assemblies (which may be related). I also put high temp grease on the pins/bolts that the brake pad bracket slides on. Is there something which would cause this to happen consistently? I am at a loss and kind of sick of the brake pulsate when slowing down from highway speeds. Thank you for any suggestions!

My old Subaru named Steve has 268K miles on it and some issues that I have been unable to figure out. These problems may or may not be related: 1. Oil leak, it used to be that I would pull to a stop and a nice plume of smoke would billow out of the engine compartment. Then I took the timing belt covers off, since that is cool and nice to do, but now the oil is all over the inside of the hood, especially towards the front and a good amount comes dripping out of the hole where the hood prop goes when I lift the hood. Oil also ends up on top of the engine, but somehow not on the belts. I did the camshaft seals, crankshaft seal, oil pump seals, valve covers and poured UV dye in the oil to try to locate the leak. During idle I could see a small fluorescent drip out of the seal that is inside of, and parallel to the valve cover seal (is that the cam tower seal?) and more glowing oil appearing around the oil pan bolts at the back edge of the oil pan. I'm going to try to do the oil pan gasket next and wondering if there is a seal above that between the engine and the transmission which could be the culprit. I had the clutch redone a 30K miles ago by Maaco, and maybe they did a crappy job with the seal? It seems crazy that the oil should end up towards the front and on top of the engine, but I know that when I had a leaky drain plug on the transmission, the transmission fluid was all over the front of the tranny…so the wind under the car is a mystery swirl to me… 2. Coolant loss. After about a week or so the reservoir tank will be empty and I can usually add a cup of antifreeze in the radiator to top it off. I do not see any drips outside of the engine, so I don't know where the coolant is going. It doesn't seem to be making a lot of white smoke at the tail pipe or smelling excessively sweet. 3. Gurgling/sloshing/dripping noise when I start the engine, accelerate, and turn the engine off. It comes from behind/towards passenger side dash. This seems to be worse when the coolant has ran low, so I suspect that is the problem, since the noise isn't there when the radiator is full. 4. Exhaust smell inside car when I turn on inside fan while at standstill. But I can't seem to find the exhaust leak nor smell it under the hood or around the car. I was going to pull the whole exhaust down and inspect it under those metal protective plates, along with changing the exhaust manifold gaskets. I thought it may be the head gasket, but there is no exhaust smell to the antifreeze, the reservoir tank is not oily and doesn't have bubbles, the oil is clean looking (no milky froth), and it doesn't seem to be smoking white out the tail pipe when warmed up. Obviously these problems may be totally separate, but could also be related. I figured I'd start with the intake manifold gaskets, thermostat and thermostat gasket, oil pan gasket, exhaust manifold gaskets, check exhaust for holes under the shields and go from there…anything I am missing, or am I making too much work out of it? I could just keep running it where it smokes and drips oil, and just keep topping up coolant along with turning off the inside air whenever I drive in town and have to stop a lot. any help is much appreciated!

My pink Loyale has 268K original miles and a unicorn hood ornament. Still running as strong (weak) as when I got it at 114K! Hoping for another 260K…