DrieStone

At this point, I'm pretty sure I'm not dealing with wheel bearings, half-shafts, or transmission bearings (I've replaced some/all of these components). I'm down to the idea that it's bushings or transmission. It did happen suddenly, so it seems odd that it would be a bushing issue. I wouldn't want to take the car up faster than 25MPH. No rubbing sounds, no issues/changes under braking. Nothing while coasting, but the car jitters and shakes under acceleration. Engaging 4WD doesn't seem to change anything. Car does have an SJR lift and 6 lug wheels. Car has been fine for years with this setup, but started having issues earlier this year. Current trans is a 3 speed auto, but I have a 5 speed manual that I picked up to eventually swap. Has anyone had a similar issue?

Stick with me. I have a '92 Loyale with a little bit of lift on oversized tires (27", so nothing extreme). Last year I took it camping a few times, and fully loaded for camping it struggled to maintain speed up hills on the highway. My eventual plans (maybe in the next 12-18 months) is to do an EJ swap (I also have a 5 speed with low-range that will go in), but that's not in the cards for the forseeable future. So, I'm toying with the idea of maybe adding nitrous (25 or 35 shot) to the car that I can use when the car needs a little more of a kick in the pants. I know a lot of people will say this is a bad idea (but on the scale of "bad" it's not that bad). I'm not looking to roast tires or anything, it's just a cheap, easy power adder compared to trying to go turbo. Let's be honest, an engine swap is going to be super time consuming. If it was a weekend or two I'd make that happen, but I want to be able to use the car until I'm ready to actually start the swap. I'm not worried about the longevity of the engine, but I'm also not looking to make any crazy power. The engine is in decent shape (certainly leaving oil drips under it at this point), but I don't see much need to spend time to fix any issues. I'm probably going to be looking for a used system to keep the costs down. I've also never messed with nitrous (owned several turbo Subraus/cars in the past, and that's always been my go-to). Yes, I also realize the fact that I can run out, etc. etc. I'm just exploring the idea of this to make my life a bit easier. Thoughts? Hate? Love? Experience doing this sort of thing?

I've been doing some maintenance on my '92 Loyale and I've noticed the outer sections of the rear crossmember is pretty badly rusted (this is where the "trailing" arm connects to the body. I'm thinking I may want to do something about this before it fails. There's some body rot elsewhere, but overall the car is is decent shape. It has a lift and the rear tires are sitting forward so I should lengthen the arms as well (secondary project). It looks like only real purpose is to locate the outer bracket for the arm. Not sure if anyone has fixed this. I'm thinking I'll cut the end of the crossmember off and fabricate up a bracket in such a way that I can get a good weld on it. I'm no expert, but this pretty much only carrying a front/back load, so I should be able to come up with something that works pretty well. Thoughts?

There was a slit in my CV (brand new half-shaft), but it was obviously turned so I couldn't see it. Obvious answer, I just assumed that I shouldn't have a torn CV on a new half-shaft.

I was driving my Loyale today and noticed that I was getting smoke out the back under acceleration. When I got home, I popped the hood and saw smoking grease/oil on the cat that sits right behind the passenger side CV. There are grease marks where it looks like the CV flung its grease out, but that was there before. I recently had the driver's CV go, and I did a complete half-shaft swap with what is supposed to be shafts with CVs that are better equipped for lifted Subarus. The New CV has grease/oil "drops" on them, the boot looks fine, and there's no evidence that there is new grease being flung from the CV. There is evidence that this fluid is coming from somewhere else and hitting the new half-shaft though. I would say it looks like grease more than oil, but the stuff on the front cat was oil-like (due to heat). I do have an oil leak on the engine, but the engine looks dry in that area (the bottom of the engine is wet and I'll get some drips on the ground under the car). I'm a little mystified by the source of this. I am planning an engine/trans swap in the near future, so I'm not worried if it's something significant. I want to get through this winter with the car and not worry. I checked my engine oil level and trans fluid level, and they both seem fine. Anyone have an idea of what I should investigate here?

I feel completely stupid for not thinking of this. I used to use this trick on my Jeep before I locked the rear.

I have a Jeep Cherokee which is my main "wheeler", and the Subaru project is more because it seems weird. I want to see how much I can do with the platform (keeping with Subaru parts and not throwing live axles under it). This is good info, and gives me hope. I probably won't even break into the transmission until next spring, but I'll make sure I document things appropriately.

I was able to find a five speed with low range for my '92 Loyale, I was also excited to see that Torq sells a auto locker for the rear. It got me thinking about the front. I don't need a locker up front, but I wouldn't be opposed to it either. I've seen notes that the EJ and EA transmissions are similar and that a front LSD for EJ transmissions may fit the EA. As with any of this, the info seems to be somewhere between a rumor and old forum posts linking to other forum threads that don't exist any longer. Has anyone thrown any kind of a LSD in a 5 speed (with the low range) trans? The transmission is out of the car and I have some time to dig into it if there is such an animal. Looks like I can split the case and get to the diff fairly quickly while the trans is out.

Ok, I discovered that it's the PHV, and used for hill holding. I really don't care about this, so I guess I don't need to worry about it! Am I mistaken here? I can just skip this entirely if I don't care about hill holding.

I'm pulling parts off a late 80s GL to convert my 92 to manual transmission. I've run into something I'm unfamiliar with, and I can't seem to find an easy answer. The clutch pedal has a cable that goes into a linkage "system" that sits under the brake booster. The two cables off this make sense, but there are 3 hardlines on this thing. Looks like at least one goes into the engine somewhere, another goes through the firewall. What the heck are these hardlines? If they were vacuum lines, I would assume they'd be rubber. I'm assuming they're hydraulic lines for some reason, but what do they do? I looked in my Hanes manual, and it looks like they just routed the clutch cable right to the clutch on earlier cars. Color me confused. I can take a pic and post if this isn't clear. I'm so close to being finished grabbing what I need from this car, I just want to finish pulling the pedals and clutch cables and get it out of my garage. Thanks!

On second thought, maybe it is an EA82. Looks like the EA81 cars had the battery on the passenger side? I don't think the EA81 came on the third gen Leone. So if the GL looks like the Loyale (it does), then it should be an EA82.

I think it's a non-turbo (I think the turbo should say turbo on the intake right, and the gauge cluster looks the same as my '92). My Loyale is push button 4WD. I don't know much about the donor. I have a pic of the engine, but I don't know how to identify an EA81 vs EA82. My guess is that it might be an EA81, because I don't see a timing belt cover. Are there non-interchangeable parts that I may have to worry about if it's an EA81?

Thanks, good to know I'll need the flywheel (and starter). I figured I'd grab the rear diff either way since I kinda figured a different gearing. Good to hear that the cluster is a pain as well (I mean, not good, but goes along with my plan not to do anything with it). I didn't realize the clutch was cable activated, so I'll keep the eye out there. I just wanted to make sure that I didn't have to screw around with axle shafts or hubs. Thanks for the help!

I might have the opportunity to pick what I want off a salvage 80s GL with manual/low range. I currently have a '92 Loyale auto. If I'm going to go through the trouble of a manual swap, I'll probably just do an EJ swap at the same time (but that's for another day). For now, I want to try to grab everything I may need off the GL. I probably won't even get to the actual swap for a year or more, but I'd hate to not grab something that I need. I'm going to need: Master cylinder/clutch pedal Brake pedal (or can I cut the auto pedal down to fit?) Transmission Driveshaft (I assume) Rear Diff (not sure if the gearing is different, and maybe the diff on the donor is limited slip?) Interior trim/knob(s) Can I continue to run my existing hubs and half-shafts? If I don't care about the gauges, do I need to bother?

Brakes are inboard from the hubs, (which is not typical), so the rotor bolts to the backside of the hub instead of slipping over the studs, so it shouldn't matter if the hub has been modified for 6-bolts.