YnotDIY

So just checking but, seals that are 30x50x9 should work? Like these? >> https://www.amazon.com/Subaru-Legacy-Forester-Outback-Impreza/dp/B0798TD5BM/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_263_img_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=VWDVXTZ3ZJNBHXHAH76P

@jono I actually used to have one of those. 1989 Toyota Camry Wagons look very similar.

this is rad!

Just cruising the Crosstrek threads which are only 4 pgs deep....crazy.... Came across this and had to share over here. With the vast amount of knowledge on the 80's threads (and others) this just threw me because we generally don't see posts like this over here. Not trying to shame anyone, but man, this had me rolling for a minute. DON'T WORRY, IT'S SHORT AND SWEET > https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/166248-led-lights-in-map-lightsdisaster/ This had me thinking, because I'm interested in getting an outback sport or early 2000's outback in the next few years. So what do ya'll think? 1) How new are you willing to go with Subaru? 80's and 90's till death? 2) Anyone in here CVT over Manual? (I know it's not that easy) 3) Anyone favor newer models of other brands? (I'm definitely not a one brand kind of person)

@86BRATMAN haha yeah I did. These parts cross over a bunch of years. Well into the 2000's.

Thanks GD, this is good to know for the future....not that I'll be changing these on this car ever again while I have it. haha cheers!

Not a bad move. Thanks GD. I called my local shop and the guy goes "oh here we go" like I wasn't going to have the correct numbers. Everything checked out Bennie. Funny they had the 31 seal in stock, but not the 32. They are definitely side specific? They had everything else as well. Thinking a 2.2 swap is in my future. Probably in the next few years. Honestly it sounds fun to me.

Thanks @el_freddo , this helped a ton!

Hey Everyone, I apologize for the parts question. I'm really not familiar with terms, but am trying hard to learn. I'm looking for an axle seal for the transmission side of my 88 GL. I've got transmission oil leaking out of the passenger side axle where it meets the transmission. Can someone please comment with a link, part number, and name of this seal. Right now I'm just putting a bunch of seals into my cart on Rock Auto hoping that one of them will be correct. I've got.... Input Shaft Seal Output Shaft Seal Drive Axle Seal Extension Seal Axle Shaft Seal (this is the one I think it is, listed as front outer, but there is no image) Thanks so much! I'm moving to Chicago and hoping to get everything I need to seal this up before I take off. The help is always appreciated.

@GeneralDisorder the body style of the EA82 is so much better than the bubbled out legacy or forester. Loyale, GL, DL, are all much better looking IMO. I'd do an EJ swap just to keep the EA body.

Just bought one last week!?!?

pics also not working over here, on my computer. Using Chrome Browser...

Bought a new Neutral Switch Assembly from the dealer. You can find the part number in the images I've linked. Also for comparison purposes you will see the old switch and new switch side by side below. new switch has black plastic nub. Old switch is off white and quite worn. After I cleaned and re-installed my old switch I could actually feel it cutting in and out which was making the car jerk a bit in gear. I figured heck it might as well just buy a new one! Got it for $36. Crazy thing is this switch looks almost the same as the Back Lamp Assembly that turns on the reverse lights for manual transmissions. Only difference I can see are the plugs. Double crazy is that newer Subarus also have this switch....different plugs though, but possible to source these if for some reason they stop producing either the Back Lamp or Neutral Switch. Cheers ya'll! Purchase Part Here > https://parts.subaru.com/p/SWITCH-ASSEMBLY-NEUTRAL/49242865/32008AA041.html

Hey everyone just wanted to post this here incase anyone else has this issue. I didn't see anything come up in my searches and figured it would be good if the process was documented....OEM part numbers and all. I'll keep it quick. Got my 88 GL Dual Range about 2 years ago now. Reverse lights have never worked and besides being dangerous it just bothered me. I finally figured it out! ****** PICTURES ARE LINKED FOR REFERENCE On the rear case of the transmission, about 7" in from the shifter rod, on the drivers side you'll find the Back Lamp Assembly. Looks like a bolt with 2 wires coming out of the side. This can be removed with a 19mm wrench. It's a bit tricky to get to the plug, you have to un-do two metal "clamps" that hold the wires for this assembly and others. The "clamps" are located between the top of the transmission and underbody of the car. Find someone with small hands to help you haha. Anyway, this switch has a little plastic piece that gets depressed when you shift into reverse, the circuit then closes and the reverse lights come on. I think there are two reasons for my reverse light failure. 1) plastic nub on switch worn and cannot produce a closed circuit. 2) wires were falling apart. (as you'll see below) This part can still be purchased new from the dealer (I just got on from my local Subaru Dealer) although some sites list that it is no longer in production. I paid $36 (can be got for cheeper, i've seen it for $25) Link to the schematic of the transmission is here, this one is for a turbo, which I do not have, but it's just about in the same position. Back Lamp Assembly is #5 on the diagram. Diagram > https://parts.subaru.com/a/Subaru_1990_Loyale-WAGON-TURBO/_80160_6027483/MT--REAR-CASE/A11-120-01.html Can Purchase Here > https://parts.subaru.com/p/Subaru__/SWITCH-ASSEMBLY-BACK-LAMP/49242840/32005AA030.html It's interesting that this switch functions similarly to the Neutral Safety Switch. Actually they are just about identical (besides the plug ends)....makes me wonder if they can be interchanged....I did a bit of cross referencing and it looks like newer manual Subarus also have both of these switches, so if these part numbers go bad we might be able to pull from newer models. Images are from my old Back Lamp Assembly....as you can see it's toast.....

+1 to re-drilling a wheel set instead of doing the hubs. More margin for error (as you can always get another set of cheep rims) and you can always go back to the 4 lug original set up if you want.

@naru2 thanks! It's good to know they switched it up like this. I'll have to test again and see if it checks out according to these specs. Incase anyone is curious if you follow the link. TPS is listed in EA82 Part 2, Section 2-7, pgs. 14-15

@GeneralDisorder I checked the supply from the ECU and it's putting out 5v. The TPS seems to read around 4.2-4.3v at full open. It's running great though so I'm not that worried, just wondering if anyone else is getting the same under 5v readings as me. Unless anyone it getting a higher voltage reading at full open then I'm gonna say 4.2v is a pretty normal read.

would be so awesome. Good luck!

Also wanted to link this diagram incase anyone needs it. It's for a Loyale Turbo, which I do not have. (I have a 88 SPFI 4x4 Manual) but it did help me find the neutral switch as they are in a similar position. Neutral Switch is #7 on the diagram. https://parts.subaru.com/a/Subaru_1990_Loyale-WAGON-TURBO/_80160_6027483/MT--REAR-CASE/A11-120-01.html

Updating this after almost a year with some new information. I found out the cause of my severe engine braking was actually due to a faulty Neutral Switch Assembly. According to this thread > https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/34730-neutral-switch-on-manual-trans/ < it's suspected the that the neutral switch assembly keeps the fuel injector spitting fuel into the intake when you take your foot is off the gas while you're in gear. A faulty switch assembly will cause the injector to immediately cut off fuel, while your off the gas, in gear, and cause you to eat the dash. I was getting a CODE 51 and investigated. I pulled the Neutral Switch Assembly last night, cleaned it, and re-installed. This fixed my issue. I'll do a write up on the location of this switch on the trans with images. Cheers to keeping these old babies running! WOO!

You should check out both of these threads as they have a lot of useful information. https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/106807-improved-shock-absorbers-and-spring-coils-on-loyales/ https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/117164-my-92-loyale-safariwagon/?page=23 I just got into the EA system a few years ago and have not had a bad time finding parts. Sometimes it does take a couple of weeks, but it's really all about who you know and now you know us! Don't hesitate to reach out or send a direct message. There are not many parts in my area (Michigan), but there should be plenty on the west coast! I know there are also parts in Montana. Just a heads up as sometimes this works for me as a part sourcing tactic. I'll often cruise Craig's List for old Subarus out of state. Popular states to search through are Montana, Oregon, Tennessee, Washington, North Carolina, and New Mexico. If I find someone selling an 80's subaru I'll often just send them an email or text and see if they would be willing to part anything out. I've had a lot of success finding contacts or sourcing parts this way if for some reason USMB doesn't come through. Cheers, TJ

bump

Hey Ya'll, After a lot of hours trouble shooting some issues with my 88 GL (SPFI 4x4) I found a faulty TPS. I've now installed and calibrated 3 new (used) TPS's and I can get NONE of them to read within' the FSM specs. FSM says this.... back probe terminal D with one probe and ignition ON, but CAR NOT RUNNING (actually found this to be incorrect, need to probe terminal C to get a reading) and connect other to a good ground. With TPS already calibrated reading with throttle fully closed should be about .5V. At throttle fully open reading should be around 5V. So I should have a reading from .5V - 5V that goes up gradually as I open the throttle and goes back down gradually as it is closed. Here is my issue. NONE of these TPS's will read up to 5V at full open. I'm getting around 4.2V max. HERE IS MY QUESTION What are others getting for voltage readings on their TPS's? Anyone get a reading at 5V? Please post some answers below. Cheers!

@Loyale 2.7 Turbo great job on the Hyundai! I haven't put the LEDs in my instrument cluster yet, but hope to do it once it warms up. It would be awesome to get it going!

@Naked Buell what's up with this? did you ever get any of these made? I just got a rear set of 5 lug adapters, but no fronts.