YnotDIY

Alright update on my idle issue....so Ive noticed after a short drive, say 10min. to the store, when I come back to start the car it usually fires then stalls out. To get it to fire I have to HOLD DOWN the gas pedal until it starts then I can let off. When I have to start it this way HOLDING DOWN THE PEDAL the idle gets all wild. it will idle at around 2,000 and even a little blip on the gas will send the idle to 3,000 for a while until it comes to rest at 2,000. NOW CHECK THIS While it's RUNNING I unplug the IAC connection and it goes to idle at around 500. Next, I turn off the car. With the IAC still unplugged I try to start it (nothing of course). THEN plug the IAC back in, go to start again and it's idling normally around 500 or so. What's up with this? This method for "re-setting" the idle has worked nearly every time. Am I letting the computer re-calibrate something with this method of trying to start with IAC un-plugged? I have a new Coolant Temp Sensor on the way (only $89), but I was thinking maybe it's a distributor issue or something? If this sparks anyones mind please let me know. I'll update as I find out what's up with this.

DaveT is this the one you snagged from the dealer? I want the SPI one I believe. Is that for Single Point Injection? Thanks for all the help ya'll. The plan is to swap that CTS and fingers crossed that fixes the issue. I have found no vacuum leaks and for now the solenoid seems to be working although I'm planning to swap that out as well when I have the time. If anyone can confirm this is the part I need that would be awesome. https://parts.subaru.com/p/Subaru_1988_DLGLGL10RSRX-WAGON-TURBO/SENSOR-ASSEMBLY-TEMPERATURE/49232416/22630AA030.html

More news, car is flashing error code 34 EGR solenoid. DaveT I saw on your website an EGR swap to a toyota one. Any idea what yr that might have been? Would it be possible my symptoms could be caused by the solenoid? Also, guy at the shop told me the IAC is reading 11+ volts when it should be around 10V. actually he said it should read 1V with key in on position for 1min. then switch to 10V like normal. He said it always reads over 10V and never reads at 1V. Thinks it could be ECU related...insights anyone?

Just wanted to update this incase anyone ever searches it. I ended up taking the car into the shop (plz don't kill me) because I have no time to mess with it due to school. Anyway long story short...they told me they are stumped. Said they didn't know how to find codes for it and that they couldn't get it to idle high. Then they said they could, but it went back to normal. Called them and told them how to get the codes (via a thread from here ((thanks ya'll)) ), but it was wild for me to get that call. I've never heard of an auto shop being stumped with a car. I suppose there's a first time for everything. I'm pretty sure I'm dropping the car off the JimBo so he can take a look at it. Ya'll would know him as The Desert Fox with his 84 DL. Hopefully he has some insight. The novice here is pretty lost atm.

So I think my issue might be that wires that are starting to pull away from the plug for the Idle Air Control Valve . The ones that are pulling away are not coming fro m the IAC itself, but from the plug on the car side. I want to make them more secure by cutting into them and adding more wire, but the frayed parts are literally NEXT to the plug...like they want to back out of it. any idea on how to fix this anyone? Is it possible to take apart the plug and fix the wires that way? Any help would be appreciated. Hell if anyone wants to snip a plug with a lot of extra wire from a car they arent using ill take it! ​

ahhhh DaveT thanks for the clarification. You're always coming through for me. Whenever I look up CTS it gives me the rad thermo switch as an image. I'll check mine out and see what it's looking like. Any chance someone could post a link for me to an aftermarket one? thanks in advance.

I think we are missing eachother. I'm not actually holding the gas pedal down while I start the car....rather after I start the car I have to hold it down for a bit to keep it idling. Then after maybe a minute it usually idles normally. I was also thinking maybe fuel pump? but I'm really just guessing. Is the idle speed control different form the idle air control? sorry I'm mostly a novice at this.

hmmmm good time to note I actually removed my coolant temp sensor when I put in a new radiator a week ago. The one I had was corroded and it was actually cheeper to wire the radiator fan to a switch. I know people have done this before. Could this be my issue? Any way past it since I no longer have one plugged in? I'll check the AIC too. Could a vaccum leak casue this?

Hey Everyone, So I've been having this issue for a while now. While I'm in neutral, by pushing in the clutch or sitting in neutral the idle will spike to around 3,000 and slowly drop down to around 1,500. I've also been having this issue where upon first starting the car I have to hold down the gas pedal until some gas moves through the system or the car will die. Once it's running for a minute, it generally stays around 1,000-1,500. Not sure if these issues are linked, but I thought it would be good to give a little history of what it has been doing. I did change the intake manifold gaskets about a week ago, but it was doing this before that anyway. Let me know what you think. If anyone can link to another thread if this question has been asked that would be great too. I can never find info using the search bar. this is that it's doing --->

that's kind of what I was thinking as well. looks like it's time to get a welder.

hey ya'll curious if anyone has converted the pin style wiper arms on any of the older models with the hook style or with something a little more solid feeling? The pins on my 84 wiper arms are pretty worn out and I'd like to upgrade them, any help / advise would be appreciated!

couldnt get them from the dealer. wasn't able to locate them on the site. ordered some from rock auto. I'll let you know how they work out.

Alright thanks GD. The car is the Desert Fox some of y'all have probably seen it on here. Just picked it up from Jim Bo last week. I know he did an engine swap to an EA81 D/R that's what's giving me the hesitation. I'll call and do it today.

Seems as though the ones from the dealer are also a different shape than either of these....can anyone post a link to something they feel would work from the dealer??? Just trying to not get the wrong thing here and be out of a car when I take it apart until new gaskets arrive.

hey ya'll about to buy some gaskets for the DL and rock auto is giving me two options. just curious if anyone knows which shape I'm after for the 1.8 DL. Also is there anywhere to buy those grommets that I will need for the bolts if they don't come with the gaskets? Let me know what you're thinking. The one with the grommets is supposedly for the 1.6 without is for 1.8. thanks for the help.

also, looks like the center bore on the Peugeots are around 63mm and the subaru's are 101mm will they still be able to fit on with a smaller center bore?

Hey ya'll, I'm talking to a guy right now on a Peugeot message board about picking up some wheels off him and I had a question I couldn't find an answer to through the search bar. (does that thing ever work? I can never find what I'm looking for on there...) The wheels he has are 15" diameter and 6" wide. I'm curious if 1. 15" will fit under a non-lifted 88 GL and 2. if anyone knows if they will line up well and not stick out. I'm having trouble finding backspacing information for the subaru wheels and the peugeot wheels. Here's a pic just so you know what I'm looking at.... Dude told me his are 4x100 bolt pattern in the e-mail, but I think he just doesn't know?? They are coming off a 1986 Peugeot 505 Turbo Wagon. He also said mine should be 4x100....so either he mistyped or is just misinformed right? Any help would be great. Thanks ya'll.

side note I cant find the specs for the OEM steelies on by scoob right now. anyone know how wide they are or if it's possible to run a smaller width rim?

Hey everyone, looking to get some bigger tires under the GL and since I can't find any Peugeots anywhere I was just searching the net for an alternative....Some of these have a 4 bolt pattern any idea if they will work? (I'm thinking no, but figured I'd ask anyway) http://www.autorimshop.com/mazda-protege-2001-14-wheel-rim-64817.html?gclid=Cj0KEQjwxbDIBRCL99Wls-nLicoBEiQAWroh6vjH0Hj7loVsv-0qWteKmXgH8dSlhh88NVLfPywu8q0aAjj48P8HAQ http://www.autorimshop.com/honda-civic-1992-14-wheel-rim-63727.html?gclid=Cj0KEQjwxbDIBRCL99Wls-nLicoBEiQAWroh6rIQjEO-h3y8u3CsbJtFWl4XAoWrhT6neVa_jR-7ub4aAvh-8P8HAQ http://www.autorimshop.com/ford-focus-2001-14-wheel-rim-3365.html?gclid=Cj0KEQjwxbDIBRCL99Wls-nLicoBEiQAWroh6vj4W7np67vAUGID8y6PkTt4I8z2e6ZWLQZLf5RWZjMaAtCf8P8HAQ

Hey everyone, looking to get some bigger tires under the GL and since I can't find any Peugeots anywhere I was just searching the net for an alternative....Some of these have a 4 bolt pattern any idea if they will work? (I'm thinking no, but figured I'd ask anyway) http://www.autorimshop.com/mazda-protege-2001-14-wheel-rim-64817.html?gclid=Cj0KEQjwxbDIBRCL99Wls-nLicoBEiQAWroh6vjH0Hj7loVsv-0qWteKmXgH8dSlhh88NVLfPywu8q0aAjj48P8HAQ http://www.autorimshop.com/honda-civic-1992-14-wheel-rim-63727.html?gclid=Cj0KEQjwxbDIBRCL99Wls-nLicoBEiQAWroh6rIQjEO-h3y8u3CsbJtFWl4XAoWrhT6neVa_jR-7ub4aAvh-8P8HAQ http://www.autorimshop.com/ford-focus-2001-14-wheel-rim-3365.html?gclid=Cj0KEQjwxbDIBRCL99Wls-nLicoBEiQAWroh6vj4W7np67vAUGID8y6PkTt4I8z2e6ZWLQZLf5RWZjMaAtCf8P8HAQ

could you link the video?

I posted about this a couple weeks ago GD advised against an aftermarket cable. I got one from a dealer. It's been in about a month. no issues yet. good luck. I think it was about $30 or $40.

alright I'll go that route then. thanks for the heads up.

Hey ya'll while taking apart my IAC I partially broke the gasket (it's useable, but super hard and now part of it is missing). I was curious 1) if it's supposed to be a non-flexible plastic or if mine is just really old. 2) Could I use a gasket maker to make a new gasket for it? I'd rather not go through the trouble of ordering a new gasket and waiting around for it to show it. would be awesome to grab some RED RTV and just do it today. Not sure about gasket maker cause I've never used it before. I've been reading on here, but couldn't find any solid info. Let me know what ya think or if gasket maker would be okay which one ya'll could recommend. Also! check out that new prof pic. GAMES GAMES vinyl on the GL now for free via school....

so it's been a bit, but the new cable really improved the feel of the clutch. everything is much smoother now and a lot less play in the pedal. A++