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YnotDIY

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Everything posted by YnotDIY

  1. YnotDIY
    Pretty sure I found the leak. I'll post up in another thread about that.
  2. YnotDIY
    Agree with this on the swap. Seems like they work much better and swapping the pulleys is pretty easy. There is a lot of info on here about how to do it. Just don't grab one from auto zone unless you really have to. I got mine from there and the first two I bolted on were crap out of the box. Lucky for me third times the charm and this one has been going strong for a while. Good luck and let us know what happens.
  3. YnotDIY
    This is all good news. I might just wait for summer so I can wrench on it myself. I need to daily this to school at the moment and can't be without it while I figure out how to do everything. I know this should be posted in another thread, but I'm gonna ask anyway and then I'll transfer the info over, but what tools are necessary for doing the belts / pullys ect. also would wanna do the crank and cam seals while I'm in there if they look gnarly. I mean generally which tools. not like exact measurements for sockets and stuff. anything special? If this needs to be asked in another thread, just point me to the right direction. I mean...I'd also be doing the oil pump reseal and for sure water pump while I'm at it...
  4. YnotDIY
    My dream is to EJ swap this GL...getting tired of people passing me all the time haha. but alas that is far far down the road...gotta first figure out where I'm leaking brake fluid and radiator fluid oh and gear oil fluid.... :/ the bay is so gnarly with dirt and oil and road stuff it's hard to tell where anything is coming from....can't wait for summer and to be out of school..can't wait for the car days of summer.
  5. YnotDIY
    I had noticed it for a bit before i came to see you Tom, guess it just wasn't loud on that day haha. It's been getting worse though. I'll do a cleaning of the engine, might try that diesel fuel / oil combo to loosen things up or the ATM fluid / oil as I've heard it can clean the engine well. every tried any of those tricks? Also, I asked my mechanic about re-sealing the pump and he told me the engine needed to come out and it's expensive. total bs right? the engine does not need to come out to remove the oil pump....asked him about it cause I wanna change my timing belts soon and I've heard from here while your doing the belts it's a good time to re-seal the pump if you need to since you have to remove similar components to get at the oil pump.
  6. YnotDIY
    So...I've been noticing this noise coming from the bay when I start the car. it's pretty loud from a cold start then tends to die down once the engine warms up. it kind of cycles between loud and quiet not really sure what's up, but I uploaded a video to youtube so you can get a better idea of the noise i am hearing and where it's coming from. no idea on oil pressure as my gauge is non-functioning and from what I hear are unreliable anyway. Might be time to re-seal the oil pump.... here is the video. cheers, TJ
  7. YnotDIY
    Man Dave to the rescue again! I recently saw that exhaust you built on your website. beautiful. thanks for all the help all the time.
  8. YnotDIY
    hey ya'll I found a spot in Detroit, MI that can order new aftermarket fenders for the Loyale....gonna put them on my 88 GL and I'm curious as I can't find info on what this looks like.... I don't have holes for an air dam in the 88 correct? Looks like the Loyale fenders can come with holes for air dam or they can't. I'm just not sure if I have them or not. If anyone is curious this is the place I am ordering them from....no idea where they are getting them from. $75 a piece to much? http://www.mitchsautoparts.com/contactus.html
  9. YnotDIY
    doh.....thanks.
  10. YnotDIY
    NFG??
  11. YnotDIY
    awesome thanks Dave seemed weird to be, but this is my first 88...haha heading to the hardware store tomorrow.
  12. YnotDIY
    sorry for such a basic question, but this has been bothering me. When I turn the oil filler cap, in the bay, as far as I can... it rattles and isn't sealed. is this the normal / correct positioning? it's not coming off that's for sure, but in every car I have had the cap is always a screw on one that is very tight on the engine. I'm worried the rattle and not sealed cap will cause oil to spill out of the top once the engine warms up. again sorry for such a basic question, but alas here i am asking it anyway.
  13. YnotDIY
    We must always try haha. I drove through a torrential down pour last night....worst rain I have driven in in years....could barely see 100ft in front of me....believe me I was terrified I was going to hydro lock or something with the intake. BUT everything was totally fine. car ran great. rain subsided and Senior Dog lived to see another day.
  14. YnotDIY
    I realized the same thing about the air flow meter. It is definitely bouncing around when I drive and that's no good. I'm welding up a support for it tomorrow and I'll post a picture or video of the results. I still have the stock air box and I'm finally on break starting next week so I'll be running some very un-scientific tests and seeing which intake seems to be working better. looking for acceleration and throttle response. I'll post results when I have them.
  15. YnotDIY
    Hello, I know this is a years old topic now, but I was curious about your fix for the oil pressure gauge. Mine is doing the same thing as yours was it's reading below the zero mark. Sometimes it will jump up when I start the car all the way up then will just go all the way back down again. When you say you fixed yours by just moving it with you hand did it start to read on the gauge then? I have the ability to source a new left side for my instrument cluster, but I'm wondering now after reading your post if that is necessary. Thank you for reading. Also really excited to do the LED mod on my dash! ordering lights this weekend and hopefully installing before I go back to school in march. TJ
  16. YnotDIY
    Damn! would be awesome if we had some earlier model diesel engines.
  17. YnotDIY
    Hey ya'll I've been doing some research and all I can come up with is that Subaru made the Boxer diesel in 2008. maybe this is the wrong forum for this, but I'm curious if there is anything earlier than 2008.....
  18. YnotDIY
    been great reading through all 38 pages of this. just time flew through 6 years. I'm continually impressed by all of you here on USMB. I just got my first Subaru (an 88 GL) and I'm stoked to work on it when the weather is nicer and I'm off for the Summer from school. This thread is super inspiring. Thanks for sharing and continuing to share.
  19. YnotDIY
    Alright thanks, I'm excited to rip it apart and see what's going on. I'll post results when I have them.
  20. YnotDIY
    Might have solved my own problem finally able to get that website to cooperate....I think these are the links I need. could someone look through and let me know? http://www.subarupartsandaccessories.com/a/Subaru_1988_DLGLGL10RSRXTURBOGL-WAGON/__6027050/MANUAL-GEAR-SHIFT-SYSTEM-MT/A10-350-A1.html http://www.subarupartsandaccessories.com/a/Subaru_1988_DLGLGL10RSRXTURBOGL-WAGON/__6027051/MANUAL-GEAR-SHIFT-SYSTEM-MT/A10-350-A2.html http://www.subarupartsandaccessories.com/a/Subaru_1988_DLGLGL10RSRXTURBOGL-WAGON/__6027053/MANUAL-GEAR-SHIFT-SYSTEM-MT/A10-350-B2.html Also, I think this is the schematic for the dual range right? http://www.subarupartsandaccessories.com/a/Subaru_1988_DLGLGL10RSRXTURBOGL-WAGON/__6027039/MANUAL-GEAR-SHIFT-SYSTEM-4WD-DR/A10-350-C1.html
  21. YnotDIY
    Hey ya'll back again (it's been so frequent this week)...anyway... I'm looking to replace the bushings for my shift linkage (the rubber and nylon ones). I've been through page after page of DIY mods on here, but I'm really just looking for part numbers 88 GL 4x4. I could have sworn last week I ran across 2 different posts with the part numbers on them, but I can't find them and like a total idiot I didn't save them...they are somewhere lost in the web I guess... When I go to parts.subaru.com and put in my VIN nothing comes up....I went to the subaru dealer and they gave me 3 different print outs and told me to basically figure it out and call them back (lame)...so I'm hoping someone here can point me in the right direction...also wanting to replace the shift return spring...which I think is called the accelerator spring (pretty sure i saw that on here somewhere). Any advise would be great. thanks T
  22. YnotDIY
    nice! happy to hear it's running good for ya.
  23. YnotDIY
    Thanks for easing my concerns, I was driving around today and found if I'm right around 2,000 it's barely noticeable. I'll just have to learn to drive my car better like Mulder said....thanks everyone.
  24. YnotDIY
    I'm also curious about doing a mod on the piece under the fender the widen the intake there. I'll let you know if and when that happens. thinking about cutting the top section and adding an oval piece of PVC???? or is PVC a bad idea? If so anyone have thoughts on good plastic to use?
  25. YnotDIY
    I've looked into this also and I absolutely get what you are saying. I wonder why they located the intake inside the fender though. it's a tight fit and doesn't get much air flow. seems like in the summer it would be worst since it's such a tight space, but do we think it's actually that much cooler right there than inside the engine compartment? I mean it probably is but I wonder how much cooler it really is since it's pretty cramped in there and tight spaces + how sun + little new air is gonna = hot air. maybe the same temp as if I were to vent the hood? who knows just speculation, but I'm gonna pop back on the old air intake and let ya'll know if the acceleration rates change at all.
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