Do It Sidewayz

i think the main hold up in this plan will be the heads. those things don't flow well at all. they are bareable with a turbo set-up as the turbo just crams air in there anwyays. you will need to look into springs. I've had these things floating at 7 K.

those injectors will likely be too much. On a gas engine, a common number is 10-15% of the fuel being injected. It's a good idea to mix in a little MMO so the fuel pump and injectors don't rust up solid

I had mine turboed for over a year. I used a IHI turbo from the 1.8L subarus, All the other stuff was custom made. I ran about 8-10 psi, and if i had to guess. i was making 115 hp. I absolutely could not keep a clutch in the car though. I went through 2 stock clutches, and then finally got a custom double sprung pressure plate, with Kevlar disc made. The car never actually got tuned 100%, as i still had stock injectors in it, but i had a Greddy Emanage system installed in the car, which allowed me to tune both fuel and spark. Even at a crappy state of tune (i would have to guess i left 15 hp on the table). i was able to outrun my buddies Legacy Turbo which ran a JDM ej20, and also USDM WRX's. The car was a rocket till about 100 KPH, which is where it completely ran outta effective gearing. I took the car apart, to restore the rust, and continue modifying it, but i found a more practical car along the way (1988 Toyota Celica Alltrac) Heres a pictures of my justy:

he's right.. you need Pistons, Rods, and Head Gaskets, along with some SERIOUS head work to make them flow something respectable. Pistons are going to be a grand Rods will be half that Head Gaskets will be zillions! With the amount of EJ parts that are lieing around in people shops, and the amount of parts that get thrown out, you could easily build 12 EJ's for the price of a proper EA motor. PLus you'd make the same, if not more HP

i think that's a generic picture I got a clutch like this custom made for my justy. with a 1200 LB/in pressure plate, Kevlar disc, and 12 Lb flywheel. i was also making 125 hp.

the car i removed the EJ20 from, was a Legacy Turbo, and back in time had the ej22. No modding was needed in that swap

no you don't! my EJ20 dropped right onto the EA82T cross member. i didn't even think of touching the holes.

To the rear axles...ZERO...just swap in the new Differential. Front axles are a direct slide on the tranny, and drive in the pin. The main prop shaft, needs to be shortened around 60MM. and will generally cost you around 100 bucks.

you will have fun mounting the Top mount Intercooler in the XT engine bay, as the firewall is that much closer. it's tight in mine even, and i have the spare tire well. Use the EJ tranny...it's not that bad to get it worked out. Just need to do a tranny x-member, and shorten the main prop shaft.

well..here's the most recent. won't be many more for a while. it's down to crunch time. as i leave thursday noon for Maniwaki, Quebec.

It's alive!!!

I know you are prolly talking about me, because recently i've been bashing the EA motors, and jumped on the EJ20 bandwagon... I'm just a little frustrated after blowing up 2 basically STOCK engines after 4 rallies. We've also blow up numerous engines in the years past in our race cars. Honestly...i'd still like to build an EA to the tits...but at this time it's more cost effective for me to just go with an EJ motor. Never the less...with the fuel rails...i'm not completely certin that the cylinders all get equal flow. And i think that a "parrallel fuel rail" mod would go a long way. I did something similar on my race car last year, and it worked really well! If i remember correctly i think the stockers were like 185 ccs or something crazy like that...which actually makes sense...since those running at around 65-70 % duty cycle is somewhere around 115 HP...

i can tell you from when i did research during the summer for the EA... after talking to a number of places...most of them suggested o-ringing as a cost effective alternative. I was looking at about 200 CDN to do it...which is not gross. they also really suggested that they had both the block and the heads...so they could be resurfaced. And suggested that with perfectly flat and true mating surfaces you would be fine. Looks like really the only options are the Coppers, or the Stockers. The coppers you can order from Flat-out group....the rubber coated ones look like they might just work nicely. Personally...i think alot of the problem has to do with the way that the coolant passages are routed in the EA heads. You have hot hot coolant from the turbo dumping right into the head... We have put some thought to rerouting the coolant lines (like t-ing the heater hoses, which would have the benefit of super hot heat in the winter). Good Luck. If you do find a decent alternative..let me know...i have a friend who still wants to build the tits off a EA motor....since he keeps blowing them on the street (went through 2 in like a month)

yeah and 220hp. these things have metal headgaskets stock???

my advice...keep and eye on your temp gauge. when i was running rallies in the summer with a completely redone, recorred rad, which was clean...it would get up to like 3/4 temp...not nice at all. i'm also betting you run into braking problems. but have fun, and let us know if she goes bang!