Do It Sidewayz

That's freaking stock turbo?????? and yeah..it does look like it wants some more fuel... man..i can't wait to turn up the boost on the VF-11 i have on mine....I just took it for a quick rip at 5 PSI....and threw it on the trailer. Oh yeah...what did the Air/Fuel Ratios look like?? Assuming you guys had a Wideband hooked up

That's awesome. you need to get that curve smoothened out a little. Looks Very very "choppy" for lack of a better word.

I dunno....we haven't had too many problems so far. We've run these things for like 7 years at ice racing...we go from 100% WOT to 100% off the throttle probably 10 times a lap!!! We haven't toasted a turbo to date. You will need something when you have installed an intercooler.

I made myself a "fuel rail" last week and so far it seems to run and not leak...we'll see how it will actually do in performance applications. My main concern with the stock set-up is the issue of un even fuel pressure and flow to all the injectors. i have a hunch that the Pass side bank of cylinders isn't getting enough pressure and flow....especially #3. What i did. was i found an "air distribution block" It has one input port, and 4 output ports... They are tapped for 1/4" NPT fittings. I then drilled out the end plugs and tapped them also. It looks kind of like this. Feed from filter V Pressure Gauge ----[=============] ------- To Fuel Pressure Regulator V V V V INJECTOR OUTPUTS I made an effort to keep all the output lines to the injectors very close to the same length. Someone suggested that if i ran the car out of gas i would be cranking forever....however i don't think so as the fuel rail and lines were completely dry when i installed this (obviously), and it started right up....so i don't really see a problem. The Distribution block is mounted in the space previously occupied by the Spare Tire.

just somethin thick that will hold heat well... and make many...to replace them often.

black clouds are for amateurs you need FLAMES man....FLAMES!!!!! i beleive you should star work on an ALS system....would be perfect for Autox

all you need is the FSM for this vintage of car. it will tell how to diagnose the MAF, what voltages it produces....blah blah blah. it will tell you the factors for fuel maps and all that. You need to remember that these computers don't have much "on the run control" over things. They basically switch to a pre determined map, which is adjusted slightly by a few factors.....the Coolant Temp Sensor, the MAF, the 02 sensor under open loop operation. This is really all that effects the Fueling potion. Timing is controlled by the knock sensor...however i believe the computer can only make adjustments like +- 5 Degrees, i think they also play with timing when it is cold...but not a great deal. This is why tuning these computers is soo easy....you just go in.....find the fuel maps, and adjust them for more less injector duty cycle (more or less fuel). I know for example....for a easy fuel adjustment on my Justy i threw a potentiometer in the Coolant Temp Sensor output line....by cranking the knob and applying like 1k ohms resistance, i can force the computer into giving the injectors about 4-5% more duty cycle... This was shown by my emanage....i just pulled up the real time display, cranked the knob, and noticed a 4-5 % increase in injector duty cycle. and for the Wastegate control....how else would it be controlled without relation to the MAF sensor???? There is no pressure switch....modern cars like the WRX are related to the MAP sensor which gives the computer an exact idea of manifold pressure. The wastegate control, and therefore boost is depentant on air density/flow.

you need to remember that back then the ECU's were fairly basic. the only sensor that can measure pressure of any sort is a MAP sensor (manifold pressure sensor) The EA82T does no have one...and has no actuall idea of pressure...just air flow. The FSM will actually tell you what sensors the computer takes into account to give you fuel. You need to know how the MAF works. It's a Hotwire type, and the computer gives the MAF like 5 volts, and the hotwire is a resistor. the more air that flows over it, the less resistance (close to 5 volts output). the less air that flows over it...more resistance (anywhere from 1-5 volts output). The ECU will ALWAYS try to keep you just on the edge of fuel cut. It will basically ramp up to 4.7 volts (i don't know the voltages exactly) and start to open the wastegate, by energising the Boost Soleniod. Subaru has picked a number (prolly like 4.7 Volts), which tells them that when the MAF is reading 4.7 volts, it is flowing the mount of air to make "X" amount boost (Fuel Cut). From what i understand the Boost Soleniod is directly controlled by the ECU, in relation to the MAF sensor output. It will basically remain closed until it get's to a certain Air Flow number (4.5 volts or so). This is why everyones boost which these cars varies greatly. Even on your own car, boost from season to season...or even day to day will change greatly. On cold days you might only run 4-5 PSI because the cold and dense air will cool the MAF better and produce the "waste-gate open" voltage sooner. On hot days you might make 12-13 PSI because the hotter and less dense air will cool the MAF worse and produce the "waste-gate open" voltage later. In effect...on a hot day running 12-13 PSI, and a Cold day running 4-5 PSI you will experience the same amount of performance. You still use the same fuel for 4.7 volts......but it just takes more or less PSI to get the same air density. Now....the computer i believe needs to see this "over boost signal" for more than 5 Seconds to trigger the Fuel cut. The ECU opens the wastegate solenoid.....because it assumes the wastegate is stuck closed....but if you are running an MBC, the soleniod can open all it wants...but if you don't have enough pressure there...because you have bled it off the wastegate still won't open. After the computer has tried the open the wastegate, it figure it is stuck closed... and will cut the fuel.. to prevent engine damage....however it dosn't prevent damage...it actually accellerates it....going instant SUPER LEAN at high PSI is no good. It's a hard subject to explain to someone......so sorry if you didn't understand what i wrote.... WJM....to answer your question......you will need more fuel over 12 PSI..... And if you are smart. you can build a FCD with little potentiometers...so you can adjust the cut-off point to the very last point of where the fuel cut hits. However you would be better off with an FCD, than hitting it 12 times a day...Hitting fuel cut definately isn't good for it!

the ECU's dont' see pressure...just the volume of air. and a RRFPR....at 1:1 ratio..how the heck is that going to help you??? the STOCK FPR is a 1:1 ratio RRFPR!!!!!!

yeah...i really don't know why Subaru would have used an EGT sensor. they aren't terribly quick reacting. they really just give you a rough ballpark type idea. I'd think an o2 sensor...even the single wire would be better, because it can detect lean conditions right away. To detect a lean condition with an EGT you need to wait a couple seconds for the temp to climb a couple hundred degrees. I don't think the ECU;s would be drastically different....as i said....prolly just slight timing changes for the better fuel they have. Myxalplyx: GET SOME EXHAUST on that thing!!!! i'm curious what an otherwise stock EA82 with exhaust will do....i know it's a huge difference in the seat of the pants...just curious to see a difference.

I think a VF22 on an EA82T would be what my friends and i refer to as the "boost tuesday turbo" I'll project what happens when you floor it. *FLOOR IT* *WEEEEEEEEEEEEEE "hmmm....3,000.....4,000....5,000 rpms...yeah still no boost" *Little light comes up on the dash which reads "i'm sorry sir, your boost is on order however stuck in customs, we believe you can expect delivery tuesday" I think even a stock WRX turbo is pushing the envelope a little bit. Now.....if you want to build a killer motor, and get rid of the winnie 7.8:1 compression, and use the 9.1:1 pistons from a SPFI N/A motor.....THEN...you can probably spool up the VF22. Compression spools big turbos fast....and still actually move when there is lag!!! makes for a very nice engine.

I believe that eh European EA82T motors made someplace in the range of 140 hp. I believe the main difference between the engines was the lack of cats. and they have better fuel. If you were to throw a good exhaust and run good fuel you should be somewhere around there. I really have no reason NOT to believe that an EA82T running a full catless exhaust (for race applications ofcouse ) and run 94octane fuel (we get 94 up here) you would be around 140 crank HP. I'm sure the Exhaust system with worth around 20 hp. The stock exhaust is terribly restrictive

nope.. wasn't me with the Volvo intercooler I've got a Supra Intercooler which is just about done now. I'm just in the process of mounting the VF-11 Turbo and then i'll finish off the Intake piping.. It looks like i'll prolly have around 3 inches of pipe into the I/C, and about 12 inches out. Should work really well.

yes.. the ports on the head look MASSIVE!!! For the bender....i've got one of the cheap rump roast Harbour Frieght benders. It works fairly well if you take your time, fill them with sand, and make sure the dies fit really well. Welder...i've got a 110V mig welder, with shielding gas..so i can weld just about anything. Hell i welded the entire roll cage with it....so it's obviously good enough. I think this tubing will work really well, as it will retain alot of heat because of the thick wall. Bang bang....well.....if i can find a way without spending oodles of cash...maybe. In the meantime..i'm just going to keep throwing fuel at it, till it backfires when you shift...It's a race car so i'm not terribly concerned with Fuel Mileage.

Gonna make a header. I have some 1.75x.120 Tubing left around (roll cage tubing) which i was going to make the header out of. that makes the ID about 1.5" that still too big? i don't like the TWE stuff with the 1 7/8 ID. that's too big for me.

Well..working on the ice racer tonight. i found some things. I was installing the VF-11 Turbo, Ripping off the Exhaust manifold to make a new one, installing the intercooler, and some other crap i found myself just staring at the fueling system.....IT SUCKS!!! it seems that the Fuel "rail" system for the EA82T motors is a horrible design. There's no way that each injector is getting the same amount of fuel flow and pressure. So...i'm gonna make a central fuel rail, with equal length tubes to all 4 injectors. It should help a pile. One thing i know is that we keep on blowing up the Passanger's side pistons, and whenever we blow a motor up it is almost always that side. Cracked, melted, burned, blow whatever pistons... It's obvious from the fuel rail design that this side of the engine simply isn't getting enough fuel, causing lean burn and detonation. Oh yeah...stock manifold is a POS...that's already in the dumpster..but you all knew that already. I'll take some pics once i get everything finished.... Right now the intercooler is mounted, hole is cut in the hood, piping is made. i just need to make a new manifold for the VF-11 and plop that on there. Then see where she makes boost....hopefully not too high....orelse....anti-lag it is.

don't give it up dude... don't get me wrong i'm not trying to throw **** on the fan. Just telling you what might happen. Yes..you can get great results from a "mail-order" tune. just not maximized for the engine. For 250. it's a great deal. GIVER!

Find someone local!

3 pucks are STUPID harsh engagement. Trust me here... My friend has a 91 Legacy Turbo which we used the stock pressure plate, and a 6 puck Clutchnet clutch. It's harsh....dash rattles, easy to stall, pain in the rump roast to park...blah blah blah. My car.....i used the "stock" disc with a kevlar facing, and an upgraded pressure plate (twin diaphram springs) which yielded to double the clamping force. Apart from a sligthly stiff pedal, you wouldn't know it from a stock clutch on engagement. another note....The 6 puck clutchnet clutch....it was in for about 8 months, and we had it apart to replace the engine (ej20 swap) it was considerably worn. Depending on what material ACT is using i bet they will wear at the same rate. The Kevlar facings will last somewhere around 5-6 times longer than a stock disc. From looking at the website they do indeed look identical to the Clutchnet material.... I'm well aware (cause i'm in the same position) that $$$ is a concern. But to spend maybe 100 bucks more at this point to do things properly is worth way less than the time you'd spent ripping the tranny out again to replace the clutch in 6 months time. On my Justy i've had the tranny out 3 times in the last 4 Months. One stock clutch, One new stock clutch and PP, and the Euro-drive Clutch. Remember...i'm talking in CDN dollars....exchange rate is in your favor....sort of!

you still need an Eprom reader/writer. Sure...he could send you the "baseline" map...but then what is the point??? An eprom reader/writer and the software will still be close to 250. Look around....most of the "tuners" who have been around for a while have Eprom readers collecting dust in the back of the shop. and they have all the software. It's a hole can of worms....Something like this ECU tune and then an SAFC or other piggybackish system to FINE tune. i stress FINE tune!!!

Go find one in the wrecker....they can be had for like 30 or 40 bucks usually (around 50 CDN) www.car-part.com is a good place...i haven't checked but i'm sure there are plenty. any EA82T computer after 87 will work i believe.. just some had different brackets and crap.

ok...My friend has the 6 puck Ez-lok from Clutchnet in his legacy.....and the engagement is fairly harsh. Soo much to the point where it rattles the dash everytime you let out the clutch. If it was a full on race car..ok...but to drive to work everyday....it's not my choice Read above again..i think i edited while you were posting.

dude....stay away from a SOLID hub. You need the springs in the hub to keep the shock out of the driveline, without the springs you are going to no doubt end up breaking gears, driveshafts....blah blah blah. Especially if you go "rallying" at all. Another option for you....If you send your stock stuff up here to a place called http://www.euro-drive.com then will install a Kevlar facing on the stock disc for you, rebuild everything in the disc to better than factory specs (springs and stuff), then strengthen your stock pressure plate, and rebuild/repair what is needed in there. I went to them for the clutch in my justy. Once i turboed the thing, i couldn't keep it from slipping. They built a nice kevlar clutch for me, and reinforced the pressure plate for me. Now i can peel out all 4 on tarmac!!!!! Before you'd roll onto the power and make about 2 PSI and you'd slip the clutch! They did it all for about $350 CDN. which included Taxes and crap (about 15%). I know the dollar down there isn't soo great...but for like 250 for you, it's a good deal. BTW...you are adressing the wrong problem. The problem is not in the Clutch disc itself. The problem lies in the Pressure Plate. I recently looked up the stock holding power of the EA82T clutch and it's something weak like 600 PSI, The stock PSI on my justy clutch was 600 PSI, and that was for 70HP. My justy clutch is now well over 1200 PSI, and is making like 125 HP. Any clutch guys will tell you the same thing. The problem isn't with the Clutch Disc itself, as they all grip somewhat close to the same. the problem is with the pressure plate. YES..in theory with a 6 puck design you will get more holding PSI....but...prolly not enough for what your thinking of doing.

It's all VERY much doable.... you just need yourself an eprom reader/writer. Then a program to read the automotive stuff. However if your going to go to all this trouble. you might as well do it yourself in the first place.

the white filters up here have "Six Star Subaru" on them. They are made my purolater, and aren't that great. The black or blue ones are genuine JDM Subaru, and made my Nippon...These are the filters you want.