Do It Sidewayz

Yes it was Yoshio...He does good work, around here it's what he's known for. there are some complaints towards him...but there are with any tuner. He actually took one of our EA82T computers, opened it up, desoldered the stock "chip, installed a socket, and installed the stock chip back in there. He said he would have needed the car to do any tuning.

now that i read more..i think we did have this problem. however....i'm not sure if we ever really found the root of the problem. We replaced absolutely everything. I think the one thing that might have worked was the replacement of the ECU.. it was soo long ago i can't remember.

the problem you are going to run into is there are 2 destinctly different computers: 85-86 87-up The 85-86, the only thing they will be able to control is fueling. as it is vacuum advance/retard on the disty. On the 87-up, there is the ability to play with timing to a certain extent. That does sound like a good price. I know we called around, and to get our Mazda 323 GTX, which has a similar computer to the 85-86 EA82T's.....somehwere local (toronto) wanted around 600 CDN...but this included full road/dyno testing, and the map would be custom done to the car....they quoted around 6 hours of tuning. So for 600 bucks that isn't too bad at all.

dude..i think i have the solution for you. From what i remember you are running that "greddy" mushroom style air filter.....correct??? if so...your problem is this. The air entering the Air Flow meter is too turbulant. The air needs to be nice and straight when it enters the air flow meter, or else the computer will get wonky readings. You need some way to straigthen the air flow. What we did. Go to Mc. Donalds, and steal a handfull of drinking straws. Cut the straws into like 1 inch pieces, and make a "honeycombe". Tape them all together, and some how install them infront of the Air Flow meter....I'm not sure how your filter adapter works. but you can usually put them in the filter adapter. Once you have your "honeycombe" and have it packed into the air filter adapter, Go get some Bugscreen for screen doors. Cut a piece and stretch it over the straws and around your entire air filter adapter, so when you put your filter on, it holds the bugscreen in place. Should make a difference. A quick way to check...throw the stock airbox back on and see if it does it.

the OEM headgaskets are fine for day to day grocery getting. However...on our race cars....no matter what we do...we'll blow atleast 1 head gasket per season (6 weekends). It has to do with the coolant passage design. The HOT water from the turbo is dumped straight into the head, and get's hot. Blows the headgaskets in no time when your making alot of boost, and on the power for a LONG (when racing/rallying). We put brand new head gaskets in our rally car, we made is 7 stages before they blew.

Gimme a few days to Drag the Rally car back down here. and i'll take a pile of pics. I'm sure you guys will love everything about it...it's got like a zillion point roll cage....bilstien coil-overs....lotsa crap.

The rears are stupid easy to do. Those rears will not actually work. What i'm using on my rally car is basically an off the shelf Bilstien Shock with threaded body. We then had custom stainless steel pin mounts for the tops made. They need to be 12 MM in diameter to bolt into the top mounts in the rear. The bottom we are using a 1/2 inch Spherical bearing, so we reemed out the Rear mounting holes to accept 1/2 Bolts. The front...yes basically anything from a Legacy/impreza will work if you do the XT6 hub swap. The problem you will run into is, that an impreza or Legacy is for all intentsive purposes a 3000 lb car. These RX's and crap are somewhere between 2500-2600 lbs. That's a big difference....not to mention the Impreza/Legacy stuff is designed to support in most cases a big ole 2.5 motor.....or the 2.0 Liter turbo. Both of which are heavier than the 1.8...much heavier as a matter of a fact. My front struts. Custom 4130 Chromoly Strut tubes, with Bilstien rally inserts are of the inverted design like these Zeals, and go right into the Stock (4 cylinder) front hubs. and bolt into the stock top mounts.

I was gauging interest maybe 3 weeks ago on these things. Cometic will not do them unless you order 25 gaskets. Unless TWE wants to order 25 gaskets and keep them in stock. They can be had for a little less than 70 USD though with both....you cannot just pull off the heads, and slap them on. With the cometics especially, you MUST send the block and head out, and have them machined perfectly flat. There is also a surface finish tolerance on that need to be applied to the head and block, which is basically a polishing process. This needs to be done for either, orelse there is no possible way they are going to seal properly.

I've got the same Turbo to go into my car. I got it for absolutely nothing. I haven't really looked, but the guy who gave it to me told me it's the VF-12, But i'll know once i clean the grease and crap off it. I'm gonna make my own manifold and make a custom divorced downpipe. As far as i can tell...All the coolant/oil fittings appear to be identical. which is good. The clocking of the turbo is different, but that doesn't matter to me much as i'm making complete custom intake pipes, with the intercooler and all that. Mine should be in the car by the end of next week

man..that thing is clean...Must be nice to have rust free cars down there. Our 1988 RX...the thing just rusted all out. So much that the body kit was falling off. It only lasted 2 years at the track and was then thrown in the heap. Looks good...you need a clutch pedal cover though.

hmm..now how bad do i wanna "cheat".. the weight break for different tubing specs is 2500 lbs.

how much does this car weight??? I'm gonna put a cage in the car, and the weight determines the tubing you use. The car started life as a GL-10 Turbo Sedan with 5 spd Dual Range. All the interior expect the seats, belts, and dash have been removed. The A/C and P/S have been pitched. All the lights saw the dumpster ages ago. All the asphalt sound deadening crap on the floors is gone. What's it gonna weigh?

ummm...so lettme get this straight. you actually think a WRX gearset is going to fit into your Loyale??? I think however told you this is smoking good crack, you actually think that subaru used exactly the same gearbox case. I think what is making you think this is.....buddy in AU. with his RX rally car with the "STI RA gearbox".. from what i understand he put the entire STI RA GEARBOX!.. not just the gear set. oh yeah....if your front inside wheel is spinning...just LFB a little and get the thing sidewayz. Not to mention. An STI Ra gearset is worth like 1000 bucks. Add the WRX diff (which you are not further ahead with cause it's an open diff as well) I could be wrong......

ok...basically...the stock Fuel Pressure Regulator is in effect a "rising rate" When you pressurize the intake track, you need to increase the fuel pressure so you have the same "pressure differential" between the fuel line side and the intake track. The stock fuel pressure regulator increases fuel pressure 1 PSI for every 1PSI of boost, so it's a 1:1 RRFPR (rising rate fuel pressure regulator) Rising rates are available, and most times adjustable for different ratios. Usually like 5:1, 7:1, 9:1, and 12:1 is probably as high as you'll find. With the stock fuel pressure regulator at 10 PSI of boost you will have stock pressure + 10 PSI With a RRFPR even with a 5:1 ration, at 10 PSI you'll have stock pressure + 50 PSI. So close to 100 PSI of fuel. RRFPR's are a crude, and cheap way to add more fuel. They are cheap compared to electronics, but don't have anywhere close to the tunability. They are somewhat of a Bandaid fix. On our race car, the RRFPR will be coming out in favor or fancy electronics. it's just what we had available at the time. I really wouldn't screw with a RRFPR...your gonna end up spending something like 100-200 bucks on one, which is half way to decent piggyback comptuers. not to mention...some of those fuel lines under the car which are getting close to 20 years old aren't going to like the 100 PSI. And 50 PSI at idle. we needed to raise the baseline pressure to keep the motors rich and cool enough, so we don't end up with melted/broken pistons

btw. that is with a Rising Rate FPR...no problems. aside from the fact that a good Rising Rate is grossly expensive

the stock pump will make well in access of 45 PSI. we have a race car that runs something like 50 PSI at idle, and more on boost. that is with the stock pump

Ok. maybe i was a little out to lunch with my calcs. BUT you could definately built a block to near new bottom end specs (if not better). Add better head gaskets (metal), prolly new pistons (even at 60-100 a pop), And hell....you have a dremel..just taker to the head. And the "new block issue". The blocks aren't your problem man. Nor are the rods. The problems with these engines lies solely in the Head Gaskets, and the pistons. For 1000 bucks you could easily take care of both issues. We did build the motor in my uncles 323 GTX for around 1000 bucks, and that included JE Pistons, Cometic Head Gaskets, Ceramic Coating, and a pile of other stuff. But that is our CDN funny money.

ok...one question...WHY??? That's 1000 bucks. For that money, you could easily have custom pistons made, Port and polish the heads, cams, Knife edge the crank, Re bore, Deck the head and block flat and use metal head gaskets. Then probably still have money left over. You'd have to be nuts to buy a completely stock EA82. even if it was brand new.

best i can tell. It's from a Mk3 Supra. It's going on a 1985 Gl-10 Turbo Sedan

just picked this up on the weekend. It was 50 bucks. Gonna throw this on the car, once i finish mounting up the VF-12 Turbo, and making a custom header. Emanage will be going in the car when all that is finished.

OBS = 2.2 Liter....and 9. something compresion. That is sized well for that engine with high compression, as it'll help with the spool up. 1.8 liter. with pathetic compression, won't spool that turbo. As we like to call it. Thats the "Boost Tuesday" turbo. You floor it...no boost "i'm sorry sir, your boost is on order and stuck in customs, it should be here tuesday."

It's all about air density. When it's 30 below, or 30 above, there is a great difference in the amount of air needed to make "x" amount of boost. The same amount of air at 30 below might make 30 PSI, but at 30 above make 20 PSI.

Ofcourse the old computers can be reprogrammed. They use an Eprom. In a nutshell. you need an eprom reader/writer. You need to take apart the ECU, de-install the Eprom, then install an eprom socket. Then when you want to program the eprom you take it out of the ECU and plug it into your reader/writer. Then you have at it. Almost any "tuner" who has been around for a while will have all the crap to do this burried in dust. it is where the term "chipping" an ECU came from. They can adjust the fuel maps, lift Fuel Cuts, just about everything. There isn't as much adjustability as the new OBDII computer, because the ECU simply does not monitor as many sensors. But there is still lots of room to play. You can buy all the crap to do it yourself also. It's not that grossly expensive. It's the same stuff used for programming Satelite Dish recievers and cards. You just need a different program to interface with the ECU.

The "Boost Control Solenoid" works to adjust boost pressure to to a number of factors. Basically, it restricts (shuts off) the boost pressure from reaching the Wastegate accuator. When the computer senses it has had enough boost it will open, and allow the wastegate to open. When it doesn't have enough boost it will remain closed. The 85-86 cars did not have any kind of Boost Control, except the wastegate, If you look they only had like a 2 inch vaccum hose coming from the compressor outlet to the wastegate accuator. The wategate accuator will actually open at about 9 PSI, you loose a pound or so getting to the intake runners and then you have 7-8 PSI. These cars had the "Overboost switch" because the computer had no boost control, When the overboost switch sensed 10 PSI the Computer assumes that the Wastegate was stuck closed, so it would cut the fuel. On these cars. just unplug the overboost switch. On the 87 and up cars, they added a boost control element into the computer. Really.. the computer has almost no idea how many PSI it is really making, it just monitors airflow. So..you will find on these cars when it's really cold or really hot you will pull different amounts of boost AND the fuel cut will be in a different spot. The Computer senses the "overboost" situation through the MAF, as it believes that for "X" amount of airflow the engine will be making "X" (about 10 Lbs). The reason the computer needs to see this "overboost" situation for more than 5 seconds is because FIRST the computer will open the wastegate solenoid, in a hope to open the wastegate, In STOCK cases this will work fine. However when you start experienceing boost creep (with free flowing exhaust), and you have installed an aftermarket Boost Controller, the Factory boost solenoid doesn't do much at all, especially with boost creep, as the wastegate can be fully open, but not have any effect. The MAF is the heart of the 87+ cars. If you have a boost gauge on an 87+ car you will actually watch the boost come up over "fuel cut level" and come back down. Even a stock car will go up to "fuel cut level" then back off the boost. We have two or three 87+ race cars. All of them will pull WELL over 12 PSI, with no Fuel Cut defender. We only run an MBC, and we set one car to 13-14 PSI, it will run all day long. Another car we set to 15-16 PSI and it will run all day long with no fuel cut, once we cranked it up to 22 PSI and still no fuel cut.

i believe that to be correct to a point. You are still spinning the entire 4wd section of the transmission, which is where the most loss occures. the only thing you aren't spinning is the rear diff...it's not too much of a difference i would believe.