Do It Sidewayz

i wish i had pictures of our "cracked" blocks. We had one "crack" so bad. that the pieces of rod made big dents in the hood. We've also punched a hole so big you could put a fist though it.

actually i think you are right. The 87 and newer motors did have the better cams. there is a huge difference in performance between the 2. If you've driven a 87 or later EA82 Turbo you will feel the difference. It will really rev 7,000 without protest, and still make plenty of power. The other cams just frankly suck.

not only did they come with the Gen 3 heads. but they also came with the best cams. The earlier turbo motors were really a dog. they had a cam in them that wasn't much good after about 5,000 rpms. The cams in the RX motor will pull all the way to about 7,000 rpm and keep going. A much better motor than the earlier EA82 turbo motors. Personally what is more desireable to me is an RX Sedan. They has all the normal RX goodies, but weighed less (about 150 lbs) due to no big rear glass hatch. Were stiffer in the rear, and had a near pefect weight distribution. the sedans are a much more "neutral car" than the coupes. None the less. Pick the thing up

i know it's a justy but...it makes one heck of a splash. Justy Water Splash Justy Mud Puddle Justy BIG Mud Puddle Justy Sliding All Shined up (it's unique ) Front 3/4 side rear

no...i was saying that 1200 degrees would mean the car is running a little rich. the hotter the egt the leaner you are running Colder EGT the richer you are running.

don't you want to run about 1300-1400 degrees though?? i thought that 1200 was a little low. Especially if it is running that rich. One thing i did notice, was i put 87 in on a road trip just because i was cruising. and i got good gas mileage. Something like 250 km's to 10 l's in gas.

I just installed an Autometer Pro-Comp Ultralite Air/Fuel Meter, and EGT Gauge. in my 1990 EFI Justy. Before i installed the gauges i would notice that it would really pick up at about 4,500 rpm and pull strong to redline (6,000 rpm). Like this was a noticable increase in power, like with would thrown you back in the seat alot more. I also figured the car was running a little rich, as if you are up in the rev-range and back off the gas or downshift, you'd get a really loud backfire, and probably a flame out the tail pipe. Anyways. i installed the gauges, and took it out for a rip. I noticed that before the "kick of power" it would be almost in the middle of stoich on the gauge, then once it "kicked" it would jump right into rich. At full throttle in like 3rd gear the EGT is reading about 1200 deg. At cruise (like 60 kph in 3rd) it will read like 875 degrees, and idle around 600 degrees. Now...what can i do to tune it?? I'm currently running Sunoco Ultra 94 Octane fuel, and timing is set to about 9 degrees. I'm interested to see what regular gas will do. Or what happens if i can actually put in a pile of timingt to actually use the 94 octane fuel. BTW. the car has a 2 inch exhaust with an "extremely high flow cat , and a Custom fabbed Cold Air Intake with K&N cone filter.

check out Clutchnet.com We just installed one of their 6 puck Spring Hub Clutches in my friends 1990 Legacy Turbo. VERY grippy clutch, and doesn't slip a bit. Best of all the disc was 125 USD!!!!!!!!!!! They said they could make a custom Organic Kevlar Clutch for my justy for 80 bucks USD. Give em a call. They make a great product, make it the day you call, and then ship it out to you. heres a link for their Subaru Application chart. Clutchnet Subaru Application Chart

i wouldn't doubt the auto could.. You guys ever seen one??? it's a BIG motha

OK..from experience i can tell you this. The stock 12 inch tire is a 145 R12. Which is roughly equal to a 145/80-12. This tire has a 21.1 diameter. Now. the stock 13 inch tire is a 165/65-13. which has 21.4 Diameter. I believe that the cars equiped with 13 inc wheels came with a different speedo/gear. Now..if you want to go with 13 inch tires.. Lots of luck trying to find something that fits and offers decent grip. There are 2 tires available on the market in 165/65-13. A really POS Kumho, and a POS bridgestone. What i ended up doing for the summer is finding some 13x5.5 inch aluminum wheels off a celica. i bought Falken ZEIX-502 in 175/60-13. This is a PERFECT tire for the car. A little bit wider, and a nice sidewall height. Plus they look nice. The diameter of these tires is 21.6. DO NOT make the mistake of saying. well a little bit bigger tire won't hurt and go with a 175/70-13. They will rub like crazy in the back (eat your bumper) and rub in the front at full lock (parking). You will rub int he back over every bump. In the winter. I went with 155 R13, which is a bigger tire. but won't rub because it's narrower. But i'm also putting them on a wider rim. 14's forget it. There is not a tire made that will even be close. Plus you will rub, without a doubt

the 1990 and newer Justys (new body style) came with larger front brakes, and 13 inch wheels. The justy's have a 4x100 bolt pattern, so most honda, VW, Toyota rims will fit. The only problem, is that the center hub for the justy is like 2 mm's too large. So you either need to machine the hubs, or machine the wheels. The stock subaru justy wheels don't have this problem

umm...there are about 5 of them We've got a 1987 XT Turbo, with Spider Intake a 1986 XT Turbo 1988 RX Coupe 1985 GL-10 Turbo Sedan 1987 3-dr coupe with Turbo motor.

Alright.. i'll believe you on the Fuel rails...as i haven't really looked at them that closely. However are all the lines the same length?? Because that also makes a big difference. As for our mods...we are runnning full 2.5 inch OPEN exhaust, K&N Filter with opened stock air box, Cam timing adjusted, as well as ignition timing. We run about 15 PSI of boost consistantly. From 3,500 to redline. I'd have to agree with you though..You could probably drive an EA82Turbo motor on the street for years with the mods we have an never have a problem. The problem we have, is that we are running at full-throttle for about 90% of the time for around 15 mins straight. You name it, and we've done it to these motors. Zillions of blown head gaskets. Thrown Rods so badly the shrapnell has made dents in the hood. Melted pistons. Cracked pistons (took the ring off the piston and it fell apart in 3 pieces). We've melted a hole in the heads. The only way we can keep them together is to run all the fuel pressure, and run 94 Octane fuel in our rubber cars (not full out all the time) and 110 Octane in our Studded cars (flat out all the time). Yes..it does make it hard to start in the winter, especially with race gas. and running rich at idle really isn't a problem for us, since we only really idle when it's warming up, or sitting on the grid.

well....for us, when we are racing, the motor spends very little time below 4,000 rpms for about a 10-15 minute race. The problem we are having is that #3 cylinder is melting the piston, as it runs leaner than the rest. This year we are going to try and create new fuel rails. Right now, the fuel rails run in series, and this makes #3 receive less pressure than the rest. Were working on a set-up to make the fuel rails work in Parallel so every cylinder receives the same about of fuel pressure. the other reason why we run higher fuel pressure, is for cooling. the fuel does a good job of cooling the tops of the pistons at high RPMS which ofcourse saves them from melting. We've been through about 8 motors (3 inthe last year) trying to figure out what is right. i think we finally got it

the stock pump is rated to produce something like 70 PSI all the time. Meaning in stock configuation the pump sends back almost half the pressure to the tank. You have MORE than enough fuel to run 45-50 PSI with the stock pump. Trust me. We've done it for liek 3 years.

you can actually make your own adjustable fuel pressure regulator. You just need to modify the stock one. What you do is remove it from the car. Drill a 1/4 inch whole int he top Solder/braze on a 1/4 nut inline with the hole screw in a bolt Install a fuel pressure gauge and screw in the bolt until you get the pressure you want, then lock the bolt with another nut. We have done this to ALL of our EA82T race car motors. You do get more fuel into the combustion chamber, because for the same pulse, more fuel is forced through the injector. I have a feeling we are running about 45-50 PSI now.

shifting at 4,000 or 4,200. what are you guys??? wimps??? shift at 6,000 rpms everytime

My friends Girlfriend own a Swift with the 1.0 liter 3 cylinder. I've had enough of it apart to tell you that definately. it is not the same as the Justy motor. Justy's were known to have a little bit of a Rod bearing problem, but that can be fixed with an oil pump modification, and running good quality oil. In all the just engines i've torn down (each with close to 200,000kms) Apart from one having a rod bearing shot, The internals were in amazing condition. You were still able to see the honing marks on the cylinder walls. Everything was is very very good shape. I will soon be testing the reliablilty of the justy motor, as i bolt on a turbo and aim for 125 hp.

btw.. you can't do this with no stinking Suzuki

just to set the record straight.. The Justy motor is NOTHING like the Sprint/Swift/Metro 3 cylinder. Everyone just thinks it is because it's a 3 cylinder The justy motor is a 1.2 L as the Suzuki motors are 1.0 L i've had the Justy motor down to a bare block, and let me tell you. it has Subaru written all over it

the tubing for an oil pressure gauge is very standard. It's just 3/16ths line should be able to find it at most Hardware stores

well.. i'm seeing a clutch problem. so i'm gonna get a little beefier disc. i've talked to some guys running about 125 hp. with 8 psi of boost, and are running stock internals and stock management i have talked to a guy on here who has a 283 hp justy, but also spent 8 grand on his motor. I really don't think that 125 hp, with stock internals, increased fuel pressure, and running Sunoco 94, will be too much of a problem.

my goal is to stick with a stock WRX. I think that is very achieveable with the turbo set-up.

well....factory weight should be 1751 lbs. when i had the car appart, i ripped about 30 lbs of sound deadening insulation out. Then with the backseats and stuff out, it should be around 1700 even. I still have full carpet and front interior. The thing will be going on a diet to get it down to around 1600 lbs. and yes. the thing is a PARTY to throw around. and underrated....definately. My justy which has the 1990 EFI motor and some mods will probably take just about any Naturally Aspirated Subaru from the 80's.

might be interested in a set for our race cars. what exactly do you need??