Do It Sidewayz

i was more talking that people believe that a re-circ BOV/BPV will help "spool the turbo" better than an atmospheric BOV. The belief that the air "dumped" into the intake pipe helps spool the turbo. However if it was me i'd rather have a nice fresh cool air, rather than warmer compressed air. The richness when you lift off is a good thing in my mind as it will help cool the piston tops. The pistons are prone to cracking (too much heat) and any little bit helps. And you get cool flames out the exhaust if you are running catless

another thing....the stock dashpot....HAHAHAHA!!!! i think i've seen ONE that actually still works, and i've prolyl seen 15 or so of these motors. The actuall purpose the dashpot is so when you close the throttle at cruise or anything, the throttle won't slam shut and you eat the dash board. It's so it makes the car alot smoother. Many turbo cars come stock with a Bov/bpv, AND a dashpot. The mazda 323 GTX is one of them. The dashpot does absolutely nothing except keep you from eating the dash when you let off the throttle. don't rely on the dashpot for anything

guys. there is abolsutely NO reason why a Atomospheric BOV won't work with a MAF car. It's all in the set-up of the BOV!!!! the reason the HKS SSQV works well for MAF cars is because it is closed at idle. and it's adjustable for this, and it's actually 2 staged. It's also around 300 bucks.... I installed the HKS SSQV on a friends Legacy turbo, which works with a MAF sensor...the car runs perfectly fine in all conditions. Piston type BOV's will work. you just need to spend some time setting up the spring pressure with shims so it's *just* closed at idle. As far as running rich for that second when you lift off...in a way it's a good thing. The computer believe you have that air, so it injects extra fuel. So when the BOV vents, you get a little extra fuel which has the advantage of cooling....which is good for the pistons, however not so great for mileage. Now...there is a great misconseption that a re-circ BOV/BPV helps the turbo spool quicker after shifts....in actual fact it does nothing towards spooling the turbo.

This is a custom coil over set-up which uses Bilstien Rally inserts.. Everything was made by a place in Seatle called JVAB imports. They are chromoly strut tubes, with bronze sliders and the whole bit. The guy who does these used to work for suspension companies in Europe. While nice....this stuff is worth more than anyones car they would go on (no offense). I think we paid around 1500 USD for all 4 corners The reason we don't run camber plates is because we are running Production4. and we have to run stock strut mounts the rear hats (we call them dog bones).. yes. we bend the CRAP outta them...they are u shaped now....We didn't have time when putting the car together to reinforce them...but we are working on something for the next event.

finally got around to finding some pics of the stuff.. Heres the front strut comparison and the exploded front strut assembly and here's a rear strut

I'm not Lifted..but i'm running 180 MM of travel all round.... That's a little over 7 inches.. That's my custom bilstien rally set-up

looks good.. you gotta get rid of those rims though..i'm fairly sure that those are the ugliest rims subaru has ever put on a car

i've never actually used them. However i was recommended by a brake manufacturer here to not use them. None of the road racers, rallyists or even serious solo guys even think of using them. you just don't get all the air outta the lines....for a street car they are fine...however on a race/rally car...where heat is a huge concern, i wouldn't touch them with a 10 foot pole. I always take a good amount of time bleeding my brakes, making sure all the air is outta the lines..i often go over all 4 corners atleast twice.

absolutely not. you want it as close to the throttle body as possible. This way actually yields the best throttle response

get rid of the speed bleeders. they are crap..your better to bribe a friend with a 6 pack. get some good fluid. Motul is great stuff. the spongey feel though..it could be a worn master cylinder.

all kidding aside man.. i think 200 WHP is very achievable. gotta think.. WJM is making 161.. and that's on stock management!! with a good management system, bigger turbo, you'll easily make 40 more hp... if you are good...just tuning the timing for high octane fuel will gain you 15-20 hp. If you have full control over fuel and spark.....200 WHP is a walk in the park.

umm....yeah dude...that's compressor surge... you don't have a BOV on there do you?? if not..with the extra volume of air that the intercooler is holding, when you slam that throttle shut you'll stall the turbo...this ain't good. get a BOV on there.. Re-circ, or Atmospheric...it don't matter.

weld a bead on the pipes for the hoses....they will pop offLooks good other wise

that motul is good stuff...i've got it in all my cars now, including the rally car. Bushings are a good idea...i'm doing mine..but i'm also making custom adjustable control arms at the same time......mmm...adjustability and strength

I'm gonna have to disagree...do something about engine management. We've run these motors at a lower state of tune that you have yours, and we blow them up. I believe we blew up 2 motors this year....and that it was a good year....we've blown many more in the past. I've yet to put my Wideband on one of them...but i'm fairly sure they are running too lean. and it's somewhat obvious from your dyno curves that it is too lean. I should have the wideband on my friends street car in a couple weeks. get some more fuel to it...in some way shape or form...Even if it's just an additional injector or two, with a circuit that turns them on at "X" amount of boost.... you need more fuel. You can rig up an additional injector set up fairly cheap....find some injectors from a junk yard...then just make a simple circuit....doesn't have to be 1000 times adjustable..just get some fuel in there. telling ya...it's a ticking time bomb...and i speak from our experience with these things. If it's not the pistons that you blow..it'll be a Head gasket...even the Subaru gaskets won't hold. I hate to be telling you that....but, no sense putting the power down...because you can't make any power when you got a hole in a piston

i seriously doubt you'd break an axle. with the center diff locked...there is really no more extra stress on the front or rear axles (maybe marginally more) . the stress is on the Main prop shaft and the center differential. with the open center diff. going up a hill, out of a corner under hard accelleration....your getting a good majority of the power to the front inside tire (hence your tire spin). If you had that center diff locked you'd have 50 % of the power at the rear wheels and you'd just tear up the hill! when i had the center diff open on my RX it was good...but messy. Once i locked the diff...man a world of a difference..thing would just go sideways nicely, behave under power...not pull anywhere remember...3 wheel drive is better than 2

i THINK you can do what your saying. Basically take the lsd "cartridge" from a rear LSD and install it in the front. They are supposed to be the same..but who knows. a front LSD would help a pile. From what i've heard, given the conditions, and the springs you use a Phantom Grip does work...for how long..who knows. For the rear....man...you should be able to slip in just about any plate type diff from a WRX or GC8....you'll have to change the ring gears....but thats not a huge deal. The center...just lock the stupid thing and be done with it. you'll have to drive it a little harder and "chuck" it more...but it's worth it. give it a shot throwing the rear lsd "cartridge" in the rear, and let me know if it works...it's cheap and will work. If it won't work and you gotta do something else $$$$$$ i'd prolly spend more time and money on better tires, brakes, and suspension. Those will gain you more than 1/2 second...no matter what the track. the rear lsd, and locked center is more than ok. Especially since no matter what....anything decent...anywhere (front, rear, center) is going to cost you upwards of a grand.

dude.. i'd prolly remount your BOV, with the "inlet" as close to the TB as possible....you now have it right on your intake pipe (after filter). then when you WOT you then need to fill up that 2 feet of tube that goes to the BOV, then you can make boost. You'll get a pile less lag if you do this.

those types of spring rates are WAY too stiff. I'm running 250's and 200's in my rally car and i wouldn't drive anything stiffer on the street. All the ebay type coilover kits are stupid stiff, and i don't believe that an 8 inch coil has enough travel built into it so accomidate the shock travel. You might end up coil binding your spring with only 4 inches of travel!!!!!! That's NOT good. If it was me, and wanted to put together a coil over kit. Look into stock car places, which sell dirt track parts. They will list "coil over sleeves", you call them up with the OD of your struts, and they will match with whatever possible...you want the sleeves to slip over the struts tightly. The cheap ebay kits use o-rings to take up the slack!..not what you want to do. The stock car placed can then provide you with whatever springs you want....with your desired spring rates. if you go too stiff on the rate you will look like some punk in a civic that bounces down the road like a ballon! with FRESH GR2 struts allround, i might go for a 175 or maybe a 200 in the front for a spring, then have the rears about 50 lbs lower. The stock spring rates are ike 110-115ish...i think The stock car place will end up being a little bit more..i think the sleeve kits are around 40 bucks CDN a corner, and the springs are around 60 a piece cdn. better springs though.. that won't break

i don't think an a/c condensor had "ports" in it that are large enought to flow the type of volume you need. I think something along the lines of an oil cooler (bar and plate type) would work much better. Around here we have a place called Princess Auto...kind of like your harbour freight tools...but they have alot more surplus stuff...Often times they have truck oil coolers, or heat exchangers around. I also think for it to be effective you need a large reservior....i think you'll need to hold atleast 4 liters in the reservior.....

in all honesty...using a dremel will take about a week. An air die grinder works 100 times better, especially if you payed about 10 bucks and got a nice carbide bit for it.

Man..you actuall sent that away, and payed money for it?? That's a couple dremel bits, about 3 beers and an hour! i've done all mine and they looks almost identical

there's plenty of hood clearance.... Throw just keep stacking stuff on the stock intake pipe and see how much you have. I think you'll prolly end up with an inch or so.

the fluttering you are hearing is most likely compressor stall..... Get the BOV on there soon...The turbos don't like being spun backwards much.

intake manifold design is not as important on Turbo cars as it is on N/A cars. the main reason being that you have the turbo there to cram the air into the cylinders... for an N/A car it's important to draw air into the runners, and keep a steady flow up. Not to say that you wouldn't notice an improvement... The part i like about the "spider" manifolds is that they keep the runners cooler...i think this is because the coolant "manifold" is much further away, as with the normal ea82T turbo the coolant "manifold" is VERY tight against the intake and is bound to cause some heat soak.