Do It Sidewayz

i'd be interested to see how your gonna make this work actually. unless you've mounted your turbo way up in the air, there's not really any way you can come straight out of the inlet housing on the turbo.....the intake manifold is really close I think just about the only piece you could use would be what you have mounted to the MAF and before...prolly just the piece which places the filter in the fender well... power to ya though

to plug the hole... just go get some like 1/4 or 1/8 inch steel....even aluminum...whatever you have lieing around. Just make a little template out of paper, then cut it out of steel... Throw some silicone on there, bolt it down and call it a day. If you are real ambitious....it's a perfect place for a recirc BOV to enter...Just drill about a 3/4 inch hole in the cover plate you make, and weld on a piece of 3/4 pipe....then you can replumb back a recirc line.

I think the hood pins are awesome. I put them on my car out of choice...You'd be surprised at how little the hood moves around with them on. And it's super quick and easy to get into the engine bay. The IC looks awesome....but mounting it was the easy part. the plumbing will no doubt be a ***************

Well...i think it might only end up 1/2 to an inch back from the center line of the front wheels. The thoughts are to, transplant the EA82T and Dual Range Tranny. Use a Rear LSD. Bodywork on the car will be done to replicate to look of the RX's (all white) I just need to look into the regulations of engine swaps and such in my province...i'm wondering about emissions and such.

The problem is that to clear the rad support...the axle stubs on the tranny will end up a little Behind the center line of the front wheels. Like this illustration...excuse the crappy paint work

not exactly sure....need to decide if i'm gonna do this...and then sit down and make better measurements and stuff

another problem seems to be the front drive shafts. It looks like they might have to run at a little angle forwards..anyone know if this is doable?

well.. the motor from the rally car was sittin on the floor. My buddy was standing there going....man...you sure this won't fit??? We were pulling the motor outta the Justy anyways...for it's overhaul. After some more precise measurements...the Motor will physically fit...problem would be there ain't any room for a rad.... Prolly won't end up happening...seeing that it's soo much work. But i'm thinking about it. I can't imagine a 1700 lb car with 150-160 whp.

Ding Ding Ding....

no..it's a subaru (think of my other car...besides the rally car and ice racers)

Something just ain't right here can you tell me what it is??

you are thinking of Group A. nothing needs to be sold to the consumer market...when's the last time you saw an AWD Peugoet or Citroen?? Group A....stuff needed to be homologated... If this gets transfered over to the Group N cars, then YES we will see this type of stuff in production. as everyhting for group N needs to be homologated, and cars need to be sold to be public (hence the STI spec C)

i have one of each. 1985 Sedan, 4wd, Turbo, 5 spd with Dual Range, Rear LSD...It has the checkered seats and belts, Digital Dash, Power windows, Door locks, Power Sunroof, A/C and Power Steering. Had the factory rear wing but it fell off. 1985 Sedan, 4wd, Turbo, 5 spd with Dual Range, Rear LSD.....It has (had) the checkered belts but not the seats (think they may have been replaced), Analog Dash, CRANK windows, Manual door locks, No Sunroof, NO powersteering, but has A/C. Had the factory wing, which fell off..but i re fiberglassed it back on. I can get the VIN #'s if you like. The first was Charcoal/graphite grey The second was silver, with RX badging

not a chance with the stock clutch....here's my clutch saga. Complete the turbo project....run about 4 blocks...find out that anything over 3 PSI of boost slips the clutch. Alright fine...it was a half worn out stock clutch....i figure a brand new disc and pressure plate will be enough. Get it all in, and broken in.....On the highway..be cruising in 5th gear.. 2-3 PSI and rpms increase....speed does not...Well time for something custom. Get a custom kevlar disc, with upgraded pressure plate, and lightened flywheel....was upgraded 30% on the pressure plate springs.....something happened to the springs, and they weakened really quickly.....slipped like a bastard. Took it back...it's not double springed, and the thing grips to no end. A FRESH stock clutch...will hold no more than 4-5 PSI of boost without slipping...This is from my experience.... And the plenum riser...it's not a big deal...i'm running 1.75 intake piping, and it sits on the top of the engine, and doesn't hit the hood at all

if it's a 5 spd....you need a custom clutch made. I finally ended up at a clutch with double diaphram springs on the pressure plate. I really don't think you need the plenum riser..i don't have one and it's fine. the oil pan is fairly easy.

phhft....quick steering racks...it's just called a Howe Steering Quickener available from any stock car place...just need to do a little cut and weld on the old steering column and the brakes...while its a decent idea....i think you'd prolly be better and cheaper to go with off the shelf rotors, and calipers. You can go to any stock car place (i'm sure there's PLENTY where you live) and order up some Willwood calipers, and some off the shelf brake rotors...Then you'd just have to make custom rotor hats (piece of cake with right tools) Run something like this up front....they are like $115 a caliper And this in the rear...they are like $75 USD a caliper Pads for both are dirt cheap..at like 40-50 a set. for the rotors...something like this would be sufficent, and are stupid cheap at like 40 bucks a rotor!!! Do this properly with a Dual Master Cylinder Set-up and it will perform better than the STi brembo stuff... And be cheaper...as i'm sure you know how pricey the rotors are from Subaru for the STi, let alone caliper rebuild kits and stuff down the road. and common.. you drive an RX...so the "bling" appeal isn't too great in the first place.... That's my 2 cents.

Heres a before picture...although this was about 2 years ago when it was without turbo

Well..it's kind of another project...but the same project at the same time. Anyways...i've decided that Project Justy will be stripped to a complete bare shell...have the bodywork done, painted, new parts made, everything that is wrong will be fixed, stuff will be cleaned up....when finished it will be like a brand new car, yet better For those of you who don't know....Project Justy is a 1988 Subaru Justy 4wd.. it started life as a carbed car, which i converted to EFI with use of a 1990 EFI Justy....Last year it was Turboed using an EA82T, and it now runs with WRX's. Hopefully by the end of the weekend it will be a completely bare shell....then everything will get tackled separately. might actually take some pics this time...and get around to posting a "build diary" Anyways...i'm sure none of you care....but incase you do...Project justy will be back better than ever after a brief (yeah right) transformation Kind of like overhaulin....except no one steals my car, i know what's happening, and i do the work.

I have a set of these custom bilstien coilovers on my rally car. They are custom made in seattle by a place called JVAB imports.

sounds cool. but do i want to know what your using for struts????

Unfortunately the price of TWE headers does not look so appealing to me, when i have the tools and ability to make my own at a fraction of the price.

Looks good.. we need a new wheel for the rally car now...Trying to find something with quick release...

Yeah Will. i know what your running...however....i'm worried about something like that blowing up....especially without engine management and injectors. How we push the engines is rediculus...they take a serious beating. i forgot about the cams...however...i'm not positive they do a pile except more the power band up a couple hundred RPM's. We put Delta Cams in a Legacy Turbo, and that's about all it did for it. I am thinking about a WRX turbo, or the VF-11 (legacy turbo) that i have now... I didn't venture much above 8 PSI with the VF-11...mainly because i didn't need the power just running on rubber tires....I'm thinking of running studs next year and need more power..

well.....i've got a year to do it...but i want to build a "killer motor" for racing next year. motor is for an '85 RX Sedan...which doubles duty as my rally car My aim is to go out and show a couple Mazda 323 GTX's how it's done...both GTX's are are making around 145-150 WHP. A GTX and my RX are similar in weight...however i will do some weight reduction on the rx with Plexi windows and that kind of thing So...my aim is 150-160 whp...but reliable....This engine needs to run at WOT for effectively 90% of the time for 12 KM straight...no letting off. Basically the engine needs to be 100% bullet proof. I'm thinking of 2 engine set ups, both will use efffectly the same parts.. but one will use an N/A block and pistons, while the other will use a turbo block. But....parts list includes: - Copper or MLS head gaskets - Some mild port/polish work while the heads are off - WRX or similar Turbo - WRX or Front mount I/C - Proper engine management tuned with a wide-band 02 sensor (i have a wideband) - Custom exhaust manifold - Larger or additional Injectors - possibly timing tuned for 110 Octane fuel If i run "low" compression..it'll run around 17-18 PSI..if "high" compression...probably someplace around 12-13 PSI. Anyone wish to wager a guess as what kinda #'s this would put down on a dyno? I know what Will's made...and if it made that and was completely bullet proof i'd be happy.

again.....that dyno curve is SOOO choppy....it just reinforces the fact that these things need proper engine management