Do It Sidewayz

1 and 3 are EA82T injectors...or maybe EA81T...doesn't matter they are both the same 2 and 4 are side feed injectors...they look like Nissan injectors.

either way.....man..still too lean....in the 13's is definate danger zone.

well...we did blow up 2 engines on the weekend. One had a #3 piston which was melted to crap. Another...we blew the head gasket on #3.

it definately looks like he's at 100% duty cycle. The way that it's way lean in the mid-range, then get's richer at high RPM's gives that away. From the look of this curve....Melted pistons aren't far off.. I think Will is prolly due....as he's making 50 more hp!!!!

dude..you know your WAY too lean you should be running someplace in the mid 11's for Air Fuel ratio on a Wideband. In the 12's is danger zone!

why not just convert to some "normal" type of stud. 12x1.5 are plentiful

actually...putting more bias to the rear would make the dive to the front less.

well..your obviously using the brakes too much then look into bigger rotors man. I'd think go with an XT6 hub swap, and use Legacy Turbo rotors and Calipers allround. The Legacy's used a nice 2 piston caliper (very similar to the WRX and RS) in the front, with nicely large vented rotors, and in the back they are actually a step above every other impreza as they used vented rotors back there also. If you want a cheaper solution....Re plumb the rear brakes and get rid of the factory pressure regulator, and install a Willwood brake bias adjuster. You really need to get more brake bias to the rear of the car. Most people in the know, acknowledge that bringing the rear brakes much more bias is the KEY to stopping a car quickly. The stock set-up is probably biassed to the front....prolly the front does around 70% of the braking..if you can get to the point where the rear brakes are doing like 40-50% of the work...you have just put alot less stress on the front brakes. lets do some numbers here..... Assuming a 75% front and 25% rear bias in stock form....and a 2700 lb car the front brakes need to stop: 2700 lbs x 0.75 = 2025 lbs the rear brakes need to stop: 2700 lbs x .25 = 625 lbs. If you can get that to 60/40 or even 50/50....same 2700 lb car. front brakes need to stop: 2700 lbs x .60 = 1620 lbs rear brakes need to stop: 2700 lbs x .40 = 1080 lbs The numbers and bias are probably way off...but you get the point. if you can install a brake bias adjuster, and keep giving the back more bias until it start getting sketchy under brakes (rear wants to lock up). then you will take alot of load away from the front brakes, and cause less heat. A brake bias adjuster is cheap...but you need to replumb the entire brake system (front and rear channel instead of criss-cross)

Kevin, Next time you are at the dyno, get them to throw the accessory knock sensor with headphones on the engine.....mainly on #3. air/fuel ratios logged with a Wideband are great and all (hell i have a wideband at home for personal use now)....but knock is important also. You get all your power from timing. it takes longer to play with, especially on a car with a Distributor, but in the end you can tune for what fuel you have, and really get the most from the car. We were at the dyno about a month ago with my uncles 323 GTX, and we did not use the knock sensor...however the dyno operator told us if we were prepared to run race fuel, and spend time tuning the timing we could easily get 30 more HP. #3 does get very hot compared to the rest, this is because of the turbo, fueling, and heat. There are ways of controlling each. However...9 times outta ten...when we blow up one of these things, it's #3. We blew up another one 2 weeks ago, and it was #3.....we've got alot of blocks with #3 blown...almost never the drivers side.

here's a good tech article that William from Williams Performance Friction posted on a local forum. he doesn't talk much about cross-drilled... but really they are worse. If you are getting your rotors to the point where they are glowing red, then you will crack drilled rotors to hell in about 10 miles. The only drilled rotors which will stay together are those who have the holes CAST into the rotor....rotors that are drilled from blanks, do nothing but create stress risers at every hole and you will crack them...it's just a matter of time. I have actually seen cross-drilled rotors explode...NOT PRETTY! I recall you were talking about doing a gb on Carbotech pads....if so, you are spending a good amount of cash on your pads, and i'm sure you'd like them to last longer than 1 track day...slotted rotors will do nothing but accellerate pad wear. for what you are doing...the key is in the pads....and there is NO single pad out there that will achieve what you want. you really need 2 sets of pads...one set for the street and one for the track. As far as cooling..you really only have 2 options... 1. brake ducting, install brake ducts which force cool air onto the calipers. 2. larger rotors....you are trying to slow down a 2700+ lb car, with 10 inch rotors....it's no easy task, a similarly weighted new car would come with much larger brakes and wheels. Larger rotors are the only real option as you physically have more material there which takes in more energy and disipates it better (heat) If i was you, and you seriously had this problem....stock replacement crap isn't where i'd be looking...you need to look into an XT6 hub swap, and possibly upgrade to legacy turbo or impreza 2.5 RS brakes on those hubs when you do. You need to get away from the single piston caliper stuff that RX's have stock. oh yeah....you shouldn't be using the brakes that much anyways....they just slow you down

flowmasters sound like crap on a turboed car.

you do know that with Modern brake pad formulations slotted rotors actually offer worse braking performance. the slots were originally designed to de-gas the pads, back when they had gassing problems with pads, and the gas formed a barrier between the pad and the rotor. Now...you don't need the slots as pad gassing isn't a problem. You will also create more heat with a slotted rotor. You will stop quicker, cooler, and pads will last LOTS longer with a quality Blank rotor. I'm not talking crappy rotors made in thailand or china. Brembo rotors are available for the EA82T cars. They are excellent rotors, and stop well. If it's a bling factor....slotted rotors are ok. If you actually want braking performance...just get good blanks.

on grippy surfaces....3,500-4,000 rpm don't just hold it there either....keep "blipping the gas" (WAAPP....WAPPP....WAAAPPP......WAAAAPP) you get a rythym to keep it around 4,000 rpm. Then ease the clutch out....don't just dump it

new pads = EA81 rims will rub old pads = EA81 rims will not rub New pads + two 1/2" washers = EA81 rims will not rub

if you plan on cranking the boost a little, it would be advisable to go to a colder plug. A BPR7ES or something of the like, a stock plug is a BPR6ES i believe. .044 is too wide for a turbo car, especially if you are running more boost. you want to run .028-.030 gap on a turbo engine, to prevent the boost from blowing the spark out.

dude....screw finding the stock FPR it is burried!!!!! as i said before...just locate your return line that goes to the tank. Mount the RRFPR on the firewall someplace, and run a new piece of Fuel Injection hose to the RRFPR inlet, then a new piece from the RRFPR outlet to the metal return line (behind the driver's side strut tower). Then just give the RRFPR a boost/vacuum reference......i'm sure you have a boost gauge...so just T that line. Tighten the clamps and jack is your uncle

Nah..the VF-11 (Legacy Turbo) was really easy also. All the stock coolant and oil lines bolted right up. Just needed to change the flanges. Intake needed to be rotated for my application... and the wastegate accutator needed to be modded...nothing incredibly hard though, especially when i did a DIY exhaust manifold in the process

the correct answer would have been B.....Downstream the stock FPR can still open up and try to bleed pressure all it wants..but the RRFPR which is downstream of the stock FPR will still raise the fuel pressure. You can just replace the stock one...but there is no point.

we'll have a camera in the car for the next rally we run.

i have 2.5 RS seats in my justy. Anything is possible with a welder and some steel

Interior pics will come later. It is a 1985 RX Sedan. It's an absolute stripper....crank windows, no power steering, blah blah blah. It has the Part-time Dual range tranny with the stock rear LSD. Again motor is basically completly stock except for exhaust and a k&n filter. The secret to going fast in these things...DON"T LIFT OFF!!! from what i'm told....in that corner (the last picture) they had a radar gun set-up with a digital display for spectators to see. An open class Mitsubishi Evo 4...around 375 hp....clocked 117 KPh. Us in our 1985 RX Sedan....somewhere around 105 KPH... everyone else in our class....Mid 80's kph!!!

that's the EGR you took off. out of curiousity...Why are you taking off the FPR??? if you have an aftermarket FPR...you leave the stock one in place, and run the aftermarket rising rate in series after the stock one. If your installing a Rising rate just make a nice bracket for it, and mount it to the firewall. Go get some Fuel Injection hose, and run from the return hard line on the engine, to the Rising Rate. Then from the Rising Rate to the hard line which leads back to the tank (this is located behind the strut tower). There's no point to taking off the Stock FPR unless it's knackered (very unlikely) or unless you are trying to modify it to increase base fuel pressure.

the flaps are just trailer flap material we bought and cut to fit the car. the car ran really well. the key to it's performance was in the suspension... However..we did notice about a week ago that the "strut mounts" for the rear struts now resemble a banana. so we have some work to do there. The suspension is custom bilstien based coil-overs all round. We were running 11th overall. 3rd Overall in the Regional Portion, and leading our class for the Regional Portion. We run class P4. Basically same as PGT down there. After 7 stages we blew the head gasket and parked the car before a 28KM stage. The stage prior we set 8th fastest time.

the car is actually getting a full paint job before the next rally...were just sourcing the right budget. Under the Hood...HAHA...it's completely stock..actually we had to restrict the turbo inlet. There is a restrictor in the turbo elbow which restricts it to 32MM from the stock 38MM. The only engine mods are the '88 engine with the better cams, full 2.25 inch exhaust with a Metal core cat (cat mandated by the rules), and a K&N filter. i found this really good action pic also http://members.rogers.com/tan.mt/tallpines/_MG_9525.jpg

Sorry..no real detail pics as of yet...but some action shots and stuff from the rally we ran. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/racerchick185/Tall%20Pines/Tallpinesandtashnme016.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/racerchick185/Tall%20Pines/Tallpinesandtashnme023.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/racerchick185/Tall%20Pines/Tallpinesandtashnme020.jpg http://www.chreptak.com/tallpines/main/DSC01841.JPG http://www.chreptak.com/tallpines/main/DSC01887.JPG http://www.chreptak.com/tallpines/main/DSC01888.JPG http://www.patandwalter.com/archives/images/IMG_0960.JPG http://www.patandwalter.com/archives/images/IMG_1047.JPG http://www.patandwalter.com/archives/images/IMG_1048.JPG you need to excuse the crappy rattlecan paint matching, and so on...the car was finished at about 3 AM the morning before the rally