loyalematt

My loyale was an AT car originally with pushbutton 4wd, and swapped over to the hi/low 5spd 4wd. You'll need the console setup and shifters out of a donor. Mine is daily driver/winter weather/shtf off-road vehicle and has never had problems going where I want it to, including the 16"+ of snow last year we got. I get dirty looks from some of the big 4wd truck guys when I cruise by and they are sliding everywhere. Well worth the time and effort. Little tanks with these transmissions.

Glad to help. I would just be sure to lightly coat the shaft with grease before trying to get it to go into the bearing and be sure it seats completely. Hopefully it won't give you too much trouble.

So are the headlight relays the ones just left of the ecm under the dash? No new wiring or damaged wiring that I can tell. I also swapped a new bulb into it awhile back with no change, expecting that was the culprit originally.

I would recommend also rechecking the torque on your axle nut to be sure your new bearings have seated properly. These seem to need retorquing a time or two after initial installation in my experience and the slightest amount of freeplay will cause the bearings to be noisy and wear. Check your cv axles for possible damage. They are fairly simple to replace if needed.

Hey guys. 90 Loyale 1.8 4wd. My passenger headlight went dim after a massive snowstorm last year and hasn't been bright since. The driver is nice and bright, and all other lights are working properly. I tried wiggling the bulb connector with no change. Went ahead and replaced the connector with a known good one. No change. Any ideas? I understand these don't use your typical ground wire. I tried adding a ground to the solid red and it just kept the headlights on dim with the switch off. My understanding is red/blk is low beam, red/white hi beam, so I assumed the red was ground wire. Electrical isn't my fortay, and faulty ground seems to be the most common explanation. Also, I understand these use a seperate relay for the right and left side lights, but I can't find anything on their location. Fuse for right and left are good.

I had a similiar problem where the connection in the ignition switch was faulty. Ended up running a push button start wired from the positive batt terminal to the button, button to the wire that clips onto the starter at the back. Works every time.

If your caliper piston is sticking, it can give you that clunking noise. I had to replace my passenger front caliper last year. Clutch and pressure plate is very simple on these, but in my experience it is easier to pull the engine than the transmission, especially if it's 4wd. I can have my engine unhooked, out, back in and running after about 4hrs (several years of old gen subaru wrenching lol). You will need an alignment tool for the clutch you can get about anywhere for $20 and the 2wd and 4wd clutches are different with different splines.

If you take a small punch and knock the roll pin out to disconnect the cv from the shaft, it makes it alot easier working with that little booger. Just be sure you keep the hole marked which side goes with which. If you line the axle up on the opposite hole of the shaft, it is just a fraction off inside and the roll pin won't go back in. Happy wrenching.

So I am not sure exactly what vehicle this is on as it doesn't state, but if this is an older gen 4wd like my loyale, the axle shaft is splined on the back side and connects to the cv axle via rollpin. Looking at your pictures, im guessing the bearing has been pressed into the hub but the axle wasn't pressed into the bearing. I've replaced both of my rears, and always press the bearing onto the shaft. Then I put the shaft/bearing assembly into the hub (typically you can tap it with a rubber mallet and the entire bearing/shaft assembly will go in fairly easily.) Tighten the locknut with inner seal down on the back, snug the spindle nut finger tight, return the hub assembly into the vehicle, and once everything is back together and the vehicle is lowered, torque the spindle nut to spec. I'm sure you could try hammering the axle into the bearing as you stated, but you run the risk of damaging the new bearing with the force needed to press the bearing onto the axle.

My 90 has the typical slow oil leak. I noticed that it will tick when too low (obviously), but also if it's been a bit since an oil change. I replaced the oil pump gaskets when I redone gaskets and seals bringing it back to life. The oil pump is gear driven so unless it is worn excessively, the internal pressure spring is weak, or it is not sealed properly, the pump shouldn't fail. May want to try an oil change and some seafoam or marvel mystery oil to see if it helps (should you have a sticking lifter or clogged oil passage). It's a cheap first step and if it doesn't help the issue, atleast the oil is fresh.

Driving to work this morning about 40 degrees out. No more windshield fogging. I did clean all the residue off of the windows and seems to be alot better. We can consider this thread resolved. Big thanks for the suggestions from everyone.

That's what I was thinking. The bolt holes don't line up correctly otherwise. The foam is pretty dried out there and elsewhere. Would the simple foam adhesive backed weatherstripping from somewhere like walmart be an acceptable replacement?

Quick question Dave T. Since you've been in depth under the dash I am wondering about the connection between the 3 boxes (Heater core to AC, AC to blower motor). I pulled the clamps on both sides of the AC box to give some wiggle room. Now I can't remember if they fit one into the next and then clamp down, or if they just butt up against each other and the clamp is the seal between them. Thanks in advance for any help.

Theres evidence of the same in this one. All kinds of junk stuck to the core. Cleaning it out since im already in it as well.

Have the heater core out and it's definitely leaking. Waiting on the new one to arrive. Parts store had to get it via fedex. Pulling the dash was a fun adventure. Hopefully this will fix the issue.

That's what I am going with. Tired of wiping the windshield every 10 seconds to drive. I will replace the heater core over the weekend and update.

Okay so to add another piece to the puzzle. It is a 193 degree tstat(OEM temp). Just to test, it does not fog with the temp select on cold and defrost full blast. Only with the heat on. And there is a noticeable "fog" that comes out the vents. Is it possible that the heater core is leaking just enough to cycle vaper through the vents but not actually leak into the floorboard or make the antifreeze level noticeably low over a few days?

Heater core is fine. No antifreeze in floorboards. No water in floorboards. Dry inside. Fan works on all speeds. Heat comes out the top of the dash to defrost, but its almost like it cant keep it warm enough compared to the outside air to keep it from "sweating". Vac lines and everything work properly, although the heat is hot, but in 30 degree weather and less its not impressive hot. It will defrost at idle in the mornings, but fogs going down the road for 10 or so minutes.

Typically a CV joint beginning to fail will be more noticeable by a "popping" sound often more pronounced when turning one way or the other. I didn't notice in your description the exact vehicle, but I'm assuming you have a 4wd since you mention a cv in the rear? If the axle nut is tight for sure, I would recommend pulling the rear wheel and checking the drum assembly as well. I once had one of the brake shoe springs let go and made a thumping/clanging sound rolling around inside.

Hellosubaru, autozone has the heater core for these cars. I think they run around $100 brand new.

Hey everyone. I have a 90 Loyale 4wd 5spd. Just wondering if anyone else has issues with the windows fogging up all the time? I have good heat and everything, and even applied rain x anti fog to the glass which helps a little, but the windows still want to fog up even with the defrost on full blast. Any suggestions? Thanks.

Have an extra off of a 2wd 92 loyale...but i'm in VA.

Noticed the same thing on my 90 Loyale 4wd. Tightened the axle nut. The wheel bearing and axle was just changed and wasn't torqued down properly. Should fix this issue.

My 90 is a 5spd dual range swap from a 4wd auto.Very straightforward swap. Biggest things are console obviously since you will have 2 gear shifters instead of the push button, pedals, I chose to leave the gauges alone and taped the neutral safety switch in the neautral position underneath the center of the console just under the e-brake, and you will either have to wire your backup lights to the trans to work properly, or I actually installed a toggle for them just below the shifter. As long as you have the necessary parts, all of the wiring and body holes should already be there. And I can guarantee it will climb like a tank with that dual range.

I didnt see your reply GLoyale until after but the problem is resolved. Have a 92 parts car and snipped all 3 alt wires from its harness. Reconnected into the 90's harness with all attached and wham! Now have 14.25V at idle. Appreciate the responses and help.