loyalematt

My 90 lost a significant amount after running down the interstate then has stayed fine since topping off. However, has the car overheated at any point? I have seen a curious loss of coolant which come to find out was a small crack in the head between valves allowing coolant to be burnt without actually leaking.

I actually had this happen on a 92 legacy. If you can makeshift a very small piece of wire with a slight hook at the end you may be able to get it down the side where the key cutout is and jimmy it up to get ahold of it. I cant recall exactly what I used to make my "keyhook" but I do remember it was a pain and took some patience to get it out.

I even ran a jumper wire from the batt terminal on the alternator to the + battery terminal. No change. The T plug on mine only has 1 wire connected. Has been that way since I got it and ran ok.

And to answer the question about original miles on the alternator. I have no idea but it was also a duralast alternator that was on it given the sticker markings and part number so the original was replaced before I got the car.

I will give exchanging the alternator again a try. It was a rebuilt duralast alternator from autozone. I know its not unheard of to get a bad one out of the box. Just didnt think it was as common as it seems from other threads ive read here. The strangest part of the dilemma is the old battery was a value power from walmart that was manufactured 1 year ago. With that battery even the replaced alt. would run at 11V and steadily decline. When I replaced the battery with a new duralast gold, from the time I dropped it in and drove it all the way home in the dark with lights and heater going, it stayed constant at 12.2V. I know thats not enough to recharge the battery but why no decline in voltage with a different battery? Battery reserve?

I have a 90 Loyale 1.8L non turbo 4wd with a 5spd. It started with not responding to throttle with the headlights on and now it progressed to constantly. First thought was the voltage regulator in the alternator going out since the problem was under load. Replaced the alternator. No change. Ran a voltage test with the old and new alternator and get roughly 11 volts at the battery not running, then running with a jumpstart, and steady decline. My thoughts are running on battery alone. Also checked voltage output at the alternator and the fusible links which all stay steady with battery voltage running. Changed the battery and got it home, but still only show 12.2 volts running. I should be atleast over 13V,and it normally charges around 14.3V. Best I can tell, all grounds are good and in the proper locations. Ran fine up until about 2 weeks ago after changing rear axle out. Any ideas?

That may be the case. All the tires are old and a couple were mismatched. I did move them around so the front 2 match and the rear 2 match but I will be replacing all 4. Thanks for the help everyone.

Just to be on the safe side, what is the easiest way to identify the transmission and its corresponding gear ratio? ID stamp?

I seriously doubt the improper transmission is the issue since the exact same transmission was used in it for years with no issue previously. The only thing that has been swapped since I got it was the engine, which came out of a 92 loyale FWD. Yes I did swap the flywheel/clutch set off of the original motor as the 4WD and 2WD clutch and flywheel wont interchange. It is in good condition. So theoretically, there should be no issue that wasnt there before it was parked for years. My conclusion was that perhaps the part of the trans that transfers power to the rear is binding since the 2WD works fine and it doesnt want to shift from 4WD to 2WD. The diff and axles must rotate even in 2WD so that eliminates that possibility.

Just recently got it from a family member. Know the combination works since it was drove for years as is. However it sat for about 7 years before I got it. Mileage isnt known, as its had motors swapped and tranny came out of a DL I think. The gear ratio says 3.90 and yes it has fluid. Like I said, I put new fluids all the way front to back. Thanks for the suggestions.

Hey everyone. Looking for a second opinion on an issue. I have a 90 Loyale Wagon. 1.8L TBI non turbo 5spd trans with hi/low range 4WD.Just recently went through the motor replacing seals and gaskets, and have replaced the fluids front to rear. Runs like a top in 2WD, no leaks and no problems. However when I shift into 4WD it feels like someone threw an anchor out the back or the rearend is dragging, and it is very stubborn to get back into 2WD to the point of nearly impossible unless you hit the perfect sweet spot. I read on here someone with a similiar issue that stated it was most likely because of being on dry pavement. While I can understand that turning, why would it cause a massive lack of power like that going straight at 25-35mph? Also I have noticed in several post here and the owners manual for a 92 loyale that you can shift into 4WD from 2WD while going straight but rolling. Does that also apply to the gearshift 4WD as opposed to the push button? I know on domestic 4WD ive always stopped completely to do this. Thanks for any suggestions. Love this car and every subaru ive ever had.