Evil02outback

Would anybody know where I can pick up a knock sensor connector on the harness side. Mine was pulled off right at the sealing rubber when I pulled the intake off I did not feel it when I pull it off making me think that it was not held on by much

check your idle air control valve if it is dirty or sticking it will not run right or possibly not start. last time i ran in to that issue after i ran it by cracking the throttle body enough for the car to run it ran fine once it warmed up a little bit

do outbacks have any problems with door or window seals or heater core failure? my 02 outback was in my garage for over a month with the windows rolled down so that it would dry out and it did nicely that i could tell (it was parked under a tree for over a year when i picked it up) after i fix the issues that parked it in the first place, put it outside for the week and i go look t it today and all of the windows are fogged up.

That's a lot of help thank you those are some of the answers I forgot to ask

thank you for the info i know what i am doing this weekend I'll update after it is done

i adjusted them before i put the valve covers on but i suppose i could have done it incorrectly. can this be done in the car or do i need to remove the engine?

Hi all, I recently picked up a very nice looking 02 outback for a little bit of horse trading, and from the beginning I knew it had issues. the what the original problem was " it leaked from the cam seals" ok big deal probably didnt use OEM seals cause eveybody i talk to says to use OEM seals and gaskets, Ill get in to that in another thread. And so I get the wagon home and change the seals out, while i was troubleshooting a ECM issue later finding out it was the main ground on the head, i feel kinda dumb cause i already checked all the grounds, so i thought. After i get the car running and start to burp the cooling system there was a bunch of extra noise that shouldn't be there, I'm thinking the worst it spun a rod bearing, and a buddy talks me in to pulling the engine (which is the easiest i have ever done i must say), I get the valve covers off and not a one bolt on the cam caps was tight to the point that there was a gap of at least 1/8 inch from the valve stem. I was thinking great that's my extra noise and oil leak (cause oil was just puking out) so i got everything put back together to subaru specs and put the engine back in and running (it really helps to plug the crank position sensor in if you want the car to run) after i get the car running it still had a ticking that i don't like but i have not worked on many subarus so it is possible that it is normal but i dont think so here is a short video of the noise please tell me your thoughtsnow gets to the topic title, I need another engine for it, ill keep this one and rebuild it for either another car or have it for a spare. has anybody swaped a imported 2 liter cause thats all i am finding for the 35-50k engines from japan and what all is involved in doing so if there is anything different to do to it. Or does anybody know where i could pick up a junkyard motor for a decent price. thanks for your time

Hi I'm josh I recently pick up my first subie, have worked on a couple of the turbo models and was not impressed, but I really like how easy it is to work on the N/A cars. Already have gotten a lot of good information on this forum that I wish I had when I started pulling the car apart to fix its issues.

got it figured out the main ground on the engine was really loose i must have overlooked it when i originally started to diagnose it

I already replaced the ignition switch with no change

It goes away when remove the ECM out of the system, no affect when I disconnect the alternator and I pulled and tested every fuse in the car. All good.

Oops can one of the mods delete the extra posts

Yes the car does run it lit off for a brief second before it wouldn't start

It got a 200 amp charger hooked up to it on the wrong setting, it got the full 200 amps, instead of 40 to try to start it, and yes I know it is better to trickle charge the battery but I was trying to make sure the car ran before I got to deep into repairs. I tore the dash apart to look for broken or chewed wires, I am however going to double check for burnt grounds before I run to pickup the ECU. I guess I really need to know how many grounds between the computer and the battery and engine, also is there a high amp fuse directly after the battery?

It got a 200 amp charger hooked up to it on the wrong setting, it got the full 200 amps, instead of 40 to try to start it, and yes I know it is better to trickle charge the battery but I was trying to make sure the car ran before I got to deep into repairs. I tore the dash apart to look for broken or chewed wires, I am however going to double check for burnt grounds before I run to pickup the ECU. I guess I really need to know how many grounds between the computer and the battery and engine, also is there a high amp fuse directly after the battery?

It got a 200 amp charger hooked up to it on the wrong setting, it got the full 200 amps, instead of 40 to try to start it, and yes I know it is better to trickle charge the battery but I was trying to make sure the car ran before I got to deep into repairs. I tore the dash apart to look for broken or chewed wires, I am however going to double check for burnt grounds before I run to pickup the ECU. I guess I really need to know how many grounds between the computer and the battery and engine, also is there a high amp fuse directly after the battery?

It got a 200 amp charger hooked up to it on the wrong setting, it got the full 200 amps, instead of 40 to try to start it, and yes I know it is better to trickle charge the battery but I was trying to make sure the car ran before I got to deep into repairs. I tore the dash apart to look for broken or chewed wires, I am however going to double check for burnt grounds before I run to pickup the ECU. I guess I really need to know how many grounds between the computer and the battery and engine, also is there a high amp fuse directly after the battery?

It got a 200 amp charger hooked up to it on the wrong setting, it got the full 200 amps, instead of 40 to try to start it, and yes I know it is better to trickle charge the battery but I was trying to make sure the car ran before I got to deep into repairs. I tore the dash apart to look for broken or chewed wires, I am however going to double check for burnt grounds before I run to pickup the ECU. I guess I really need to know how many grounds between the computer and the battery and engine, also is there a high amp fuse directly after the battery?

It got a 200 amp charger hooked up to it on the wrong setting, it got the full 200 amps, instead of 40 to try to start it, and yes I know it is better to trickle charge the battery but I was trying to make sure the car ran before I got to deep into repairs. I tore the dash apart to look for broken or chewed wires, I am however going to double check for burnt grounds before I run to pickup the ECU. I guess I really need to know how many grounds between the computer and the battery and engine, also is there a high amp fuse directly after the battery?

It got a 200 amp charger hooked up to it on the wrong setting, it got the full 200 amps, instead of 40 to try to start it, and yes I know it is better to trickle charge the battery but I was trying to make sure the car ran before I got to deep into repairs. I tore the dash apart to look for broken or chewed wires, I am however going to double check for burnt grounds before I run to pickup the ECU. I guess I really need to know how many grounds between the computer and the battery and engine, also is there a high amp fuse directly after the battery?

so good news and bad news the ignition switch works as intended, but the OBD port doesnt work and when the key is off, i do get fuel pressure the fans come on, and all the dash lights stay on. i can hear relays click when i pull the battery to get everything to shut off. at this point i am assuming that the ECU took a dump on me. i guess the question is will just be able to plug and play the ECU or will i need to get it flashed.

i should add that the obd2 port has power with the key off im assuming that it shouldn't have power unless the key is in the on position

no the green connectors are not plugged in, and ill have to check if the switch gets hot next time I'm working on it.

So I picked this pristine north west been sitting for a year outback for free so I knew it would have problems and I'm ok with that. And today is the first chance I've gotten to work on it . So here's where I am with it #1 it won't start #2 after I try to start it or even turn the key to the on position and back it off and remove the key, the gauge lights stay on, the cooling fan stays on, i can use the wipers, the fuel pump runs, I'm sure there's more. #3 the cam seals leak but not an issue at this point in time I have the parts and tools to fix it on hand I have checked relays and fuses pulled the plastic around the colum to check for bad wires and nothing I just need a new direction to look for the issue I'm sure it is one item causing all the electrical problems and the no start condition