kmpdx

I pulled it from the junk yard. They are definitely available on eBay and should be pretty cheap. One step I did not show is that I needed to saw off the harness connector on the back of the Corolla clock. Here is one: https://www.ebay.com/itm/98-99-00-01-02-TOYOTA-COROLLA-PRIZM-83910-02040-DASH-DIGITAL-TIME-CLOCK-G-12/152623201345?_trkparms=aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D228411%26meid%3Df6268f2018594e79816d7dbe96445fc9%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D12%26mehot%3Dco%26sd%3D174305935983%26itm%3D152623201345%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2047675%26algv%3DSimplAMLv5PairwiseWebWithDarwoV3BBEV2b%26brand%3DToyota&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851 They are a good size for this project and a pretty square which makes it easier to modify the hole that needs to be cut. I will look next time I am at the junk yard, too. Just FYI, I basically cut a hole in the face of the original clock body and glued the Corolla clock inside that body. I had more photos to show the process but the forum limits photo total to 2mb. Pretty sure if you own one of these you are probably pretty used to finagling with stuff, lol.

I tried that first. I could see that 5 or 6 of the points were bad. When I connected it to 12v, it would only light up when two of the buttons were pushed and would not retain the time. Had a couple of goes at it and could not get it to work. To make matters worse, the battery wire on the factory harness doesn't have power. The acc and illumination work. I will be wiring this one to the stereo area when I get the ol' Loyale fired back up in another month or so.

Hey guys. Just rebuilt my dash clock using a much more reliable 2001(?) Toyota Corolla clock. Going to post photos if anyone is interested. Probably won't actually install it for a while still.

Hey guys! Got the pin in and the bearing and everything back together. Guess what? Bearing is fixed! The Loyale is ready to roll again. Really appreciate the help and if you see a gray Loyale around Portland with silver hood and liftgate, that's me! Thanks! kmpdx

Reseal the oil pump. I had the tick for two years and finally did timing belts and the oil pump reseal at the same time. Instantly fixed!

Awesome. I just bought 2. How did you search those? I could not find them. Thanks! kmpdx

What about these? https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/find/subaru-gl-cv-joint-roll-pin I was worried that somehow they would not be right but I can see them working... Thanks!

Hey guys, Well, I got the shaft into the bearing. Unfortunately, I bent the roll pin trying to get it back in. I need another pin. Does anybody have a part number or can advise me where I might find one? Thanks! kmpdx

Thanks. If it turns out the bearing is messed up at least by now I am experienced if further repair is needed! kmpdx

Thanks guys! Well I wish I had known about the roll pin. I will try to take it out and get the shaft into the bearing. If it's messed up I will just have to redo it with the bearings on the shaft. I will follow up and let you know how it went in a couple of days. Thanks! kmpdx

Hey guys. got everything apart and got the bearing pressed in at a shop. The question is how to get the shaft stub pulled back on to the axle. I followed this guide and was able to get the passenger side one done using the hammer method shown in the tutorial here: I tried to do it the same way and could not get that sucker to work. I guess I am wondering if there is a tool that I could use to make it easier. My plan at this point is to try the hammer method again but with a larger washer under the castle bolt and a helper to line up the shaft by moving it around while I pull. Any other tips? Should I partially put the bolts in? Any ideas or tips? Here is a picture of the shaft: Sorry the picture is on there twice, LOL Thanks! kmpdx

Thanks guys. Knew you would know the info on these. I didn't buy them since they would not work without modification. I thought they would look cool, but definitely satisfied with my current wheels. Thanks! kmpdx

Okay. Glad I asked on here. This guy has two full sets. Thanks

Hey guys, I am thinking of buying these wheels. Will they fit on my Loyale? I expect they will but just want to be sure. Does anybody know if the chrome part is just an insert? Can it come out? Also, what year and make did these originally come with? Thanks, kmpdx

OK. Thanks. That is the information that I am looking for. I am good with swapping stuff since it really isn't much more work than swapping the lock anyway. I just wanted to make sure it can be done. Didn't mean to mix up GL and DL but I have only owned a Loyale and the photo is low res and hard to see. Beech, of you are serious about the parts you can contact B&R autowrecking by phone, The car is gray not blue. Thanks guys! kmpdx

Hi Guys, So while driving in Portland recently some jerk shot out my back window with a BB gun. My thought is to replace the whole hatch as the easiest solution. I found a hatch for $100. I know that it will fit but my question is if the other features on my original hatch will transfer over. I know that I will need to change out the lock cylinder but what about the actuator for the power lock? Is there a chance that there is already one on the GL hatch? If not will there be the place to mount the one from my original hatch? What about the wires and connectors? DO you think they will be the same? Would it be easier to replace just the glass? I have included a picture that the wrecking yard sent me of the hatch I might buy. Thanks kmpdx

I had lifter tick forever. Mine was fixed when I did the oil pump seals in September. I wanted to do the cam tower seals at the same time but did not have the time or courage to take those off without pulling the motor. My motor is SPFI with 220k miles. My oil pressure hardly registered before the oil pump reseal and now runs with pressure as expected. If you do the cam tower seals this is a good video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3VuwB7TXNBU Here is another thread which summarizes lifter tick well and is widely discussed thoroughout multiple posts on here.

So I went to the car. I was alone so testing spark was not really practical. I popped off the distributor cap and what I found is in the attached photo. A few hang ups with a dropped screw but got it together and drove it home! Kind of a weird design because that screw is kind of difficult to get tight. I did notice that even with the screw tight that there was a little rotational play in the rotor when I turn it by hand. Should it be like that? Seriously, thanks so much. Thanks! kmpdx

Battery is clean but its overall integrity is not the best. I really hope it is the rotor and not the timing belt...Just cause here I am living in apartments and I am limited in things like draining radiator. I have actually replaced timing belts and rotor relatively recently. I don't think I put loc-tite when I did the disty-rotor. My fingers are crossed that is my problem

It is like three blocks from my house right now. That would be a dream if it was that. I am studying for a final but will probably head over and do that spark/distributor check in a few.

They should not be connected but I did do that once. I will need to double check on the diagnostic plugs. Thought when I did that before that it ran crappy and the check engine light came on but maybe that was the other diagnostic plug. I will check that too. The fact that ti quit suddenly makes me think that distributor or one of timing belts (crankshaft bolt?) are good thoughts. I will check green plug and spark first and then maybe see if I can pry the timing case a little and look in there. Then fuel after. Thanks!

How can I check spark without a spark testing tool? I have a multimeter. Regardless of then strange symptoms of the fuel pump, spark is the first thing to check for sure. Particularly because that wire between the coil and the distributor was not right Can I just get a spare spark plug and connect it to a plug wire and check?

Unfortunately, the car quit 3 blocks from my house so I cannot check it right away. I will do that first. When I looked under the hood I would say the boot that connects the coil to the distributor did not fit well on the coil side. I had an extra wire and swapped it. Also, when turned to on position (not cranking) and the fuel pump kept running through the priming cycle, the RPM meter started jumping up and down and into the red. Another post pointed to distributor but I am not sure how.

That's what I thought. It goes mmmm-click-mmmm-click-mmmm-click...continuously in the ON position

I did change the timing belts in July. I put the cover back on. What is the quickest way to check the timing belt? I will take the top off the rotor and check it first. The way it happened all of the sudden does make me think that it could be something like that. Also, should the fuel pump run continuously in the ignition ON position or should it pressurize and turn off?