kmpdx

Hey. Just in case anybody is wanting to know which size Yakima Mighty Mount due fits the factory rack, it is 6v. The websites and show will tell you that you need the universal mounts but I went to Rerack today and the awesome staff there dug around and helped me figure it out. I had purchased a set of 3v but they are for a crossbar around 3/4" wider. 6v mounts can be attained cheaply on Ebay too.

Hey. Just in case anybody is wanting to know which size Yakima Mighty Mount due fits the factory rack, it is 6v. The websites and show will tell you that you need the universal mounts but I went to Rerack today and the awesome staff there dug around and helped me figure it out. I had purchased a set of 3v but they are for a crossbar around 3/4" wider. 6v mounts can be attained cheaply on Ebay too.

Hey. Just in case anybody is wanting to know which size Yakima Mighty Mount due fits the factory rack, it is 6v. The websites and show will tell you that you need the universal mounts but I went to Rerack today and the awesome staff there dug around and helped me figure it out. I had purchased a set of 3v but they are for a crossbar around 3/4" wider. 6v mounts can be attained cheaply on Ebay too.

I just might do that. Thanks!

Ok. So maybe I will try synthetic on this next change. Thanks!

So while I plan to change the oil pump and cam seals eventually I plan to wait until I have it apart for some other reason at the same time. I did find in another thread that another user had fixed his tick by using Sea Foam combined with more frequent oil changes. I decided to try this so I bought a can of Sea Foam and added 1/4 of the bottle to the crankcase. Instantly quiet! Why is that? Is it because it thins out the oil? I do plan to change the oil soon even though it has less than 2k miles on it currently. Is it possible to fix this through additives and oil changes?

Added a cup holder to my 1991 Loyale. Crosspost from 'Old gen 80s' forum: Hey guys. Not having a cup holder in the car is something I have been researching a while. Finally found a fix. First of all, my console has an aftermarket double DIN cover where the stereo goes. There was an alarm panel with the LED on the bottom with the stereo on top. I flipped that and used the slot on the top. Not sure if the co some cover is available but it made this so much easier. Maybe it is like Scoshe? Anyway, I ended up using the cup holders from an early model Legacy. I thought about using the slide out coin tray/ cup holders from. Many early 90s Fords that occupy a DIN space but the Legacy one turned out to be a better option. I did have to modify the console adapter slightly and drill two holes on the metal slide bracket that I pulled with the cup holder. Then I screwed it in to the bottom plastic of the middle vents. Also the tabs that were on the bracket actually fit to help hold it in place too. I also had to trim away the corners of the sleeve/bracket of the cup holder so that the screws posts from the console cover did not interfere with the bracket. The cup holders are smaller than modern holders but work for a cup of coffee and it looks pretty good! Pictures posted to show it. The last picture shows where I drilled holes to screw sleeve in. The tabs in the middle helped hold everything secure. Edit: The console cover is factory, not aftermarket. Pretty cool because it is pretty easy to modify

The stick is in 3rd position in photo. There is enough clearance but the only caveat is that the cup holders are pretty small compared with today's console holders. I think you could easily fit a DIN size holder into either slot for an easy fit too.

The stick is in 3rd position in photo. There is enough clearance but the only caveat is that the cup holders are pretty small compared with today's console holders. I think you could easily fit a DIN size holder into either slot for an easy fit too.

Hey guys. Not having a cup holder in the car is something I have been researching a while. Finally found a fix. First of all, my console has an aftermarket double DIN cover where the stereo goes. There was an alarm panel with the LED on the bottom with the stereo on top. I flipped that and used the slot on the top. Not sure if the co some cover is available but it made this so much easier. Maybe it is like Scoshe? Anyway, I ended up using the cup holders from an early model Legacy. I thought about using the slide out coin tray/ cup holders from. Many early 90s Fords that occupy a DIN space but the Legacy one turned out to be a better option. I did have to modify the console adapter slightly and drill two holes on the metal slide bracket that I pulled with the cup holder. Then I screwed it in to the bottom plastic of the middle vents. Also the tabs that were on the bracket actually fit to help hold it in place too. I also had to trim away the corners of the sleeve/bracket of the cup holder so that the screws posts from the console cover did not interfere with the bracket. The cup holders are smaller than modern holders but work for a cup of coffee and it looks pretty good! Pictures posted to show it. The last picture shows where I drilled holes to screw sleeve in. The tabs in the middle helped hold everything secure.

Well, good thing I fixed the radio! Thanks for all the great answers. Since I plan to change the timing belts this summer, I will do the oil pump seal at that time. I will wait until I need to take off the valve covers. When i do I will check the valves and reseal the cam towers. Thanks for the head retorque tip. Until that happens I will keep that radio up! Not worth fixing unless I am already in there for some reason. Thanks!

Hey guys, So when I first got the car in August there was lifter noise which I believe to be the "Tick of Death" or TOD. I got it to go away by adding part of a bottle of Marvin's Mystery Oil at the last oil change. There is some oil leaking and when it got a 1/2 quart low I added some oil and transmission fluid I had on hand to help the keep the ticking down. I think it is related to increasing temperatures but now it seems to make noise on the driver side as well as the passenger side where the noise originally was. The noise comes and goes and is definitely not always. My question is, if I want to try to fix this what is the best way? I plan to change the timing belts and will change the oil pump seal at that time. I have read that this may help with the noise. If that does not help how do I fix the lifters? Can I just take the valve covers off and access them that way? Will it be obvious which lifter is the noisy one? If I can figure out which is the noisy one, how do I fix or change it? Thanks! kmpdx

I just put this into my 1991 Loyale in the last month and it has been good so far. https://www.amazon.com/Spectra-Premium-CU935-Complete-Radiator/dp/B000C7VZTQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1490737489&sr=8-1&keywords=loyale+radiator Amazon says it doesn't fit but it does. Only difference is the lower radiator hose. It is aluminum and plastic and has a one-year warranty. Besides pulling out the belts and fan blade, it's a pretty easy swap. Maybe a good time to replace other parts of the cooling system while you have it drained like hoses.

Well guys, I drove the Loyale a while with no heating issues. Part by part it leaked coolant literally at times in sequence of parts. I tightened each leak and have had zero coolant leaks for a week or so. I decided that today was the day for the stress test. Drove it up to Mt Hood with no problems! temp stayed around 1/4 to 1/3 the whole time and today was much warmer than when I had my near overheating. I guess it was that old radiator. I tested the system using a non-spill funnel and did not get any bubbles! Still confused about where the bubbles came from before but maybe pockets of air in the radiator? Any way thanks for all the help. I really enjoy this forum and feel like I am hanging around the old Subie clubhouse. I will report back with any changes. Thanks!

Where did you find the 195/185 switch? What model of vehicle would I look for for those at the parts store? I feel like that is a more ideal range. I have an OEM thermostat. That should be 180, right? Thanks kmpdx Edit: Just saw that you said Trans Am

Hey Guys, So my fan switch is broken and I want to get it changed before the weather starts to warm up.I can get a switch that has the temp range that the factory does but I thought about changing to a slightly lower temp. I don't want to go too much lower so that the fan is on all the time but I thought there might be benefit in an older car to let stay just a little cooler. The harness is not an issue because it is already missing. The unit I am looking at is 197F on 179F off. Does that seem like a good fit? Or should I just stick with one with the factory specs? Any temp range options you guys are aware of? Thanks, kmpdx

So I guess it is called a clutch fork spring. Since the dealer was not open I had an at first frustrating phone call with my local Oreily. Fortunately, the other guy there had a brain and suggested that a spring of the right length would work and that they may have one or that there were places in town where I could have one fabricated. So I went out to the garage, grabbed a piece of wire recycled from a pinata no less, and made my own spring by tightly coiling the wire around a screwdriver. The coils are like 2.5 inches and then I put one end in. pulled tension, and cut the right length. Totally works and no more squeaking noise! Have to give credit to the picture in this post. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/128564-help-remove-hill-holder/ I will replace this with a proper spring pulled or from dealer soon

Hey guys, In the engine compartment where the clutch cable comes in it appears that there is a hole where a spring would fit in to help stabilize the clutch cable. The cable makes a lot of noise which stops when i put my finger on the assembly or push the clutch in. I have been waiting months for a donor to come in to Pick and Pull South to pull a spring with no luck. Now that I have fixed some more major problems I am ready to deal with that missing spring. What size (length) spring will work in there? Thanks! kmpdx

Perfect. Thanks!

Check this page: http://jdfinley.com/file-downloads/subaru-manuals/

Hey guys. Been paying close attention to my motor since I have been monitoring another issue. When the motor is idling the clutch kicks on intermittently and the motor idle kicks up. I disconnected the two harnesses on the top of the compressor for now. Don't think that the compressor was coming on and off like that before so not sure what to think. A little history. I bought the car in August 2016 and have dealt with many higher prioritized issues. The AC was disconnected at the evaporator which I noticed when changing the resistor coils. So I reconnected it. AC seems to work. The electric fan motor does not come on when AC is engaged. The electric motor has power and is confirmed to wirk when the wires to the fan switch are bypassed and connected directly. The fan's harness is connected but the fan switch that plugs in to the radiator is currently disconnected since it has recently been determined to be non functional. Don't think that should matter but seemed relevant. Primarily what would cause the cause the condenser to kick on and off like that? A relay that is closing its circuit and turning on spontaneously? Secondarily, shouldn't the electric fan come on when AC is engaged. Thanks! kmpdx

Wanted to add that valve is working much better but occasionally momentarily lets too much air in an idle bumps a little. Strangely running the blower fan seems to help stabilize the system and keep the idle more around the ideal state. S0 maybe that is related to the electrical system? I thought I might check the voltages at the harness sometime but I probably never will. Just kind of interesting behavior.

YnotDIY, I was thinking after I wrote that I would do that myself next time. Then I can service this routinely even easier.Thanks!

GD, That is awesome. Have you installed one like this? Where do you mount the board?

So I have 12v at the harness (actually, 11.94v, is that weird?) I was thinking of going with an aftermarket adjustable temperature fan switch. Anybody used one?