kmpdx

I bought a replacement from Oreily with a lifetime warranty for $40. I was able to partially repair the broken one by cutting and resoldering the broken coils but ultimately the new one ended up being a better deal. I also thought about cannabalizing a resistor pack on to the damaged one with a part from the junkyard from a more reliable set of resistor coils or some cheap aftermarket coils but again the $40 part with lifetime warranty was too good a deal. It is nice to have the multiple speeds particularly for the defroster. The coil pack is on the passenger side below the glove box and has three (?) screws. Pretty easy to change but I did have to get in a weird position on the seat to get at it. Pretty easy to get out and at least inspect and check the coils for resistance.

I WILL post a picture later. The way I found out about it was that I was out in my driveway cursing because I had put the throttle body pack on without putting the IAC on first. Fortunately my neighbor loaned me the tool which made it like a 5 minute job! This is similar to the tool I am using: http://www.all-spec.com/Catalog/Hand-Power-Tools/Screwdrivers-Accessories/Screwdriver-Sets/8078-21208?gclid=CjwKEAjwqZ7GBRC1srKSv9TV_iwSJADKTjaDToqL70OPZpyFlKPxHHOlU3jAuiJ-0jl0KM8x0inMmxoC1Zjw_wcB I did have to grind the end down so that bit was super short. There is less than an inch of clearance between the upper right screw and PS reservoir. robm, if it turns out I have an extra IAC I will let you know. I will be at pick-n-pull as soon as one comes up at the South yard and also continue experiment with the current IACs and then let you know. Having that little screwdriver ratchet basically makes the IAC easily maintainable.

So I cleaned the old IAC and lubed the little pin where it slides with a little triflo. This valve is working MUCH better! I puled the "new" valve apart and it was missing the o ring that goes between the electrical and mechanical part of the valve which could have helped it not to work. Robm, I do think that these valves get "sticky" and I think it is down in the crimped metal piece beneath the spring. I am going to replace the o ring and lube the "new" one and try it too. Also, if anyone is replacing this valve you need an offset screwdriver to fit the screw between the IAC and the reservoir for the power steering. Otherwise you have to take the whole throttle body off to get to it which is a PITA. I have one that is a ratcheting Bosch but the clearance is so little that I had to grind down the bit until it was super short so that it would fit the space. you NEED to have a tool like that to get the tight screws on this and avoid a much larger disassembly. Now that I have the tool set up it will make it easy to experiment with these valves and swap them out. I will post back with any progress.

So while pressure testing the system to root out leaks I found a (perhaps recently caused) leak on the filler neck. I decided to replace the radiator with the Spectra CU935 on Amazon for under $80. While I am still suspicious of a head gasket leak, the temp stayed around 1/3 on the temp sensor even under the exact same drive that stressed it before twice. I will be driving this up to Mt Hood next week to see how it does. The old radiator was TOAST. Looking at it when I got it out it some little spots on some of the fins that were suspect. Also I flushed the new CU935 and water seemed to flow much more freely than when i flushed the old one. What I thought was stop leak looks like it was oxidized copper. This was pushing like a fine sand in to where the hoses clamp and compromising the seals which contributed to leaks. just wanted to add that the CU935 will fit in to the Loyale with a different lower hose than what is stock for a Loyale radiator. As discussed in multiple other places here, everything fit straight up besides the lower hose, which you just need to get the older style radiator which goes up at an angle rather than 90 degrees straight out. The CU935 is single row aluminum and plastic which I wasn't super excited about but seems much better than the one I pulled out. Also, had i known I would have installed an additional stop cock valve as the CU935 only has a plug which makes it much harder to capture the coolant since it just runs out and there is no valve to attach a small hose to. I will get an aftermarket one next time I drain the fluid. Just added all the info about the CU935 in case someone else is trying to determine whether it will fit into a later model Loyale, which it will, even though Amazon says it does not. I will drive more and if I need a head gasket still it will happen when the weather is better. I will post back with any changes to this situation in hopes of helping somebody else with similar issues.

OK. Thanks.I will start with the sending unit and will also confirm that there is 12v at the harness. I will report back with results although it may be a while. Thanks again, kmpdx

So I have just put in a new radiator and swapped all the hardware on the radiator in the process. The electric fan has never come on while driving even while the coolant got really hot or when turning on the AC. While I had the fan assembly out I did hook it straight to the battery and it works. I also tried to bench test the temp sensor that screws in to the radiator but never got a reading on the multimeter. Since I could only heat the water it was in to 212 F (boiling) not sure if this is hot enough to get it "activate" and create an closed circuit assuming that's how it works. How hot does the temperature need to be to get a reading? I am more suspicious of the relay. Not really sure where to find it. How do I test if it is the relay? Any other additional advice? Thanks! kmpdx

Check the plugs and wires. Disconnect 1 at a time to see if you can isolate the problem. CTS can be pulled and tested independently using a thermometer and a multimeter. Should be around 300 Ohms at operating temp and like 10x that(?) cold

I think I am just wanting it to be an easier fix than a head gasket. I think I will pull the motor. Going to borrow a motor lift and a stand to work this thing over. Thanks!

Hey guys. Still trying to confirm that it is a head gasket leak. I did a cold an hot pressure test with mixed results wondering what next step should be. Cold pressure test: It frigging leaked again from where the o-ring seal is above the water pump ( I think). I will confirm this when I can have more time to lift alternator out and retest. Hoping to not have to put AC compressor. Hot test: Did not last long but o-ring did not leak(I guess maybe it expands once it warms?) and pressure did not rise rapidly. I got from 10-12 psi but then coolant rose up the plastic tube connected to the pressure tester. The only way to get it down the pressure tester was to pressurize it 13-15 lbs. The engine couldn't get warm enough to open the thermostat. Basically both tests were inconclusive. Should I even bother with these? I am totally willing to rebuild the head gaskets but just want to really confirm that that is the issue. If I am running the motor with a spill-free funnel and coolant and letting it get to temperature and getting tiny bubbles in coolant is that enough confirmation that it is head gasket? The reservoir never bubbles which makes me wonder. SHould I run the pressure tests differently. Like let the car warm, then cool enough to depressurize then run again to get pressure with thermostat open?

Thanks for all the advice guys. I am going to just drive it in town for now and at the end of April I will pluck it and get it on a stand in the garage and do to work. I wish I had a spare ea82 but I think that if any more old cars/parts show up around here that my wife may have me living in the Loyale, lol. I did look at the photos before and that is what convinced me that the fix may be possible. The car was taken care of before i got it and I have all records so I think it is worth it if I can get it done right. If anything changes I will post it in here but really I will probably be starting a new thread once I get the motor out. Thanks!

Well. I think it probably is head gasket after all. After burping it again last night it gets a slow yet steady stream of tiny bubbles that increase with frequency if the engine is reved. Also I feel that the coolant smells of exhaust. Is there any other explanation as to where steady bubbles could come from? This air entering the system would explain the air in the upper hose, the cold start leaks to to displacement by the air, and fluid distributing weird to the radiator if there were an air pocket. Is there any use to trying a temporary solution like a gasket sealer formula? I do plan to fix this but would preferably wait until weather is better. I suppose I can get around town OK for now but not trying to risk taking it to the mountain again. Is there any other explanation for those bubbles? Thanks.

Well. I think it probably is head gasket after all. After burping it again last night it gets a slow yet steady stream of tiny bubbles that increase with frequency if the engine is reved. Also I feel that the coolant smells of exhaust. Is there any other explanation as to where steady bubbles could come from? This air entering the system would explain the air in the upper hose, the cold start leaks to to displacement by the air, and fluid distributing weird to the radiator if there were an air pocket. Is there any use to trying a temporary solution like a gasket sealer formula? I do plan to fix this but would preferably wait until weather is better. I suppose I can get around town OK for now but not trying to risk taking it to the mountain again. Is there any other explanation for those bubbles? Thanks.

Thanks everybody. I am leaning more and more towards the radiator. With the cap that holds pressure the temp stayed right around 1/3 on freeway driving on the same drive that got pretty high the other night. After driving I parked and not sure if this is normal but the sides of the radiator were hot and the fins were not. Like I could put my hand on it without it burning me. It was weird that this time when I started it it began to weep from the lower radiator hose. It's like every spot has had its turn. Still might hit you up regarding that radiator. Amazon says this radiator does not fit: https://www.amazon.com/Spectra-Premium-CU935-Complete-Radiator/dp/B000C7VZTQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1488169622&sr=8-1&keywords=loyale+radiator Will it? Or do i actually need this one: https://www.amazon.com/Spectra-Premium-CU1731-Complete-Radiator/dp/B000CKR4OI/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1488169889&vehicle=1991-13-65-20---8--3199-122-1----2-0&sr=1-1&ymm=1991%3Asubaru%3Aloyale&keywords=cu1731 DaveT, I am going to keep an eye on all signs of head gasket because my suspicions are still there too but it is going to take a little more time to determine it it is leaking or not. Thanks for all the help guys!

I am going to burp it again tonight and give it a chance to build up air again. Having air in the system from exhaust gases (or air from somewhere) would be the only way that the system could pressurize so quickly, right? Would testing the coolant for gases be useful at this point? Also when I first start the car I do hear a sloshing in the heater core. Not sure if that is significant. Definitely going to spend some time diagnosing this to try to pinpoint exact problem.Like I said, a cold and hot pressure test soon too.

So started car up after work tonight. Leaked coolant at o-ring, then coolant housing, and upper radiator hose! I am thinking that pressure builds up is due to the fact that the radiator cap now holds pressure and that a blockage radiator is the problem. When I got home the radiator was only hot on the passenger side and cold on the driver side! Furthermore the connections are brass and there is green oxidation on parts of the radiator near the inlets indicating oxidation inside the spilled over hoses.Also the stop leak somebody put in before probably contributed to blockage. Also the upper hose is bloated like a balloon and HOT. Think I need to pull the trigger on the new radiator. Wouldn't be the new OEM thermostat, right?

As long as I don't see a drop in coolant I think I will put a new radiator in. $78 on Amazon Prime! I will report back on progress. Thanks!

Thanks for the replies. I think I will monitor the coolant levels very carefully and the upper hose. I am not getting any bubbles in the reservoir. I will perform a cold and hot pressure test on the system in the next week or so. I do wonder about the radiator because as I was taking apart the system, it was apparent that someone had run some stop leak through the system which could inhibit the channels in the radiator. If I do not see a drop in coolant over time, I may try to change the radiator. I do mix my own coolant but only use distilled. Even a small amount of ions act like molecular bb's banging the metal surfaces in the system. It always trips me out when people use tap water.

Hey DaveT, The fan driven belt turns via the drive belt. Other than that how do I check its function? What is my definitive test for head gasket failure? Coolant loss with no visible leaks? Air in the system? I wish it were as easy as a radiator since it is so easy to change. If I continue having the heating issue with no coolant loss is that when I try that? Where does a temp gauge stay ideally? 1/4 range on gauge? Thanks, kmpdx

Guys, After writing all this I realized that I the easiest step is to pressure test the "new" radiator cap. Guess what? It didn't hold pressure! The cap I removed did pass the test so I placed it on the radiator and will report back tomorrow after driving. Thanks!

Hi Guys, So I recently did a bunch of work on the cooling system and it is heating more than I expected. I will list all I did to it first and then describe the situation. Work done: Thermostat replaced with mfg thermostat All hoses except the two to the heater core replaced O ring on tube connected to lower radiator hose replaced both intake gaskets replaced with Mfg gaskets radiator drained, pulled, outside cleaned (caked in dirt/bugs), and backed flushed with garden hose for 10 min New radiator cap both drive belts changed (inner belt is squealing a little in the morning and probably needs adjustment) System burped twice. The second time was due to the little hose between the thermostat housing and block's clamps needing adjustment after leaking. Issue Description: So I drove it on its first long drive yesterday and it was up to Mt Hood. As I was climbing the thermostat began to climb above the 1/3 mark steadily. By the time I got to Mt Hood Meadows, the gauge showed to nearly 80% of the way to the red. As i drove back down it stayed close to 1/3 of the way but once I hit traffic it went to 2/3 of the way in stop and go traffic. When I got home I put my spill free funnel and burped the system the aforementioned second time. I did get some bubbles but it did seem at the end of burping that after reving the motor I could always get some "soda like bubbles" to come up from the radiator. Drove it tonight 8 miles home and went on freeway to purposely put some stress on the system. The gauge went to about 2/3 of the way up which seems hot. I did not notice the system heating like this prior but also i just put this work on it so perhaps I am much more focused and I think I would have noticed it heating this much. My Suspicions 1)Perhaps the new radiator cap? I will pressure test soon 2)maybe the radiator flow? It came with the car but has been pulled from a donor automatic due to the transmission cooling lines present. How can I know? Going to perform a pressure test cold and then hot. I have a pressure tester that I have yet to use. 3) the electric fan is not working. Does not come on when A/C engaged or when the system gets hot. Going to address but does not explain the heating on the freeway or at sustained load/speed. 4) something to do with the new intake seals or new belts? 5) Something to do with the OEM thermostat installed? 6) An issue with the (ulp) head gasket? Car was losing coolant due to leaks on driver-side intake gasket and o-ring before. Does not seem to be losing any now but it will take a week or two of monitoring to be sure. I just got new tags yesterday and really want to fulfill those two years! Any ideas? Thanks! kmpdx

What you are saying totally makes sense. It is funny that I started with the IAC and did loads of work chasing vacuum leaks. While things are much better looks like I have come full circle back to the IAC! I may try to clean and swap back to the one I removed to see if it makes a change. Thanks!

Well, I went to town and replaced intake manifold gaskets and many parts of the vacuum hoses. Also pulled off the EGR and cleaned it and its channels. Idling right around 800 or 900 rpms. Sounds like that is ok. Also replaced many parts of the cooling system and testing the CTS gives a reading of 315 ohms at operating temperature. Two questions. Will I pass a smog test at those RPMs? Do the Ohms on the CTS seems within range? Thanks!

I got it done using the o ring only. Didn't have plumber's silicone so i used a little spit. lol. Part of the issue was that I had pulled the radiator hose on to the pipe past where the alternator adjustment bracket is. i have AC so the bracket it actually over where the hose fits on to the pipe and unseats the seal of the o ring if anything is touching it. It means that the radiator hose can just barely fit beyond the bumped out lip of the pipe. kind of a weird design and took quite a bit of finagling to get right. Thanks guys!

Guys, I hooked up the 1&3 plugs backwards. Running much better now. Thanks!

So I just got my manifold gaskets changed and now my Loyale is running like crap. I have to rev it high to get it to go and when it is idling it is idling lower than 700 and almost dies and then dies sometimes. It is also having difficulty sarting and seems to sputter. I was trying to fix a vacuum leak and not sure what the problem is. It does seem like it is not getting enough fuel. WHen I first started it last night it started and reved at 2000 RPMs as expected. It did seem like a lot of smoke was coming from the exhaust for a while but I thought that might be due to all the work i had done. the gas is pretty low but it was running fine in that aspect before I started work here is all what I did: Changed intake manifold gaskets changed many vacuum hoses replaced many parts of cooling system Any ideas where I should start? Thanks, kmpdx