punx2400

https://imgur.com/yB0PIjN https://imgur.com/SAr04hf Of all the tensioners I've seen either at the junk yard or shopping online, I've never seen one with this weird, downward 20 degree angle. It came from rockauto, as part of the contitech pro timing component kit for my 95 legacy. What the hell IS this thing?! You'd think at that angle, the ram would be pointing directly at the tensioner pulley's mounting bolt. And look how thick it is! That would put it out into the path of the belt!!

Thanks gloyale, I'll try that next. So I changed out the CTS this morning. Man was that little bastard difficult to get to. All my air inlet hoses and harnesses are stiff as a board. After a drive test, it seems a little better. I'll address the TPS tomorrow if it's not snowing...

Thanks fellas

Totally different floor, but same office, the top of my block is always super shiny with fresh ooze right under the P/S pump. Yet every time I check it, it's in range?! Head Gasket???

I've never focused on the tranny as much as the half-quart-a-pay-period motor, but from what I remember from a glance last time I put a not so short short shifter in er, I think it's coming from the case halves god dammit.

Yep, exact rpms, speed and tires. Good call. Move the pivot stud huh? I've never seen the inbetweens of a subie motor and trans, is it a matter of literally moving it, or drilling/tapping a new hole for it? 75-140 was all there was at the time. Either that time, or later, I also put a quart of lucas treatment in there. It leaks like a mother... I swear, after I buy a replacement I won't fill it with garbage. hahaha

Only 2 different ratios huh? That's simple, I guess... So I have the 3.9. I would've guessed I was running 411's, based on how slow I'm going on the freeway at 3500rpm. I'm currently running 75-140,(only because I drained my tranny at work, and went to wheel the GL5 can over and welp, it's bone dry. Mopar 75-140 it is...frick) but the synchros were fried long before I ever so much as topped her off. After I get a good, smooth replacement, I'll only run that Extra S GL5. I'm familiar with car-part. I will do a search for like a 99 legacy with EJ22, trans and diff. The axles are the same right? The only thing with that is I'd have to do a hydro clutch swap, and that SOUNDS like a pain if you ask me. Maybe I should just buy a 99 legacy. This poor old car was rode hard and put away wet by the PO, and since it's a Utah car, it's all nice and cancerous underneath. Speaking of which, why is it that of all the things I see while driving, what sticks out most prominently is subarus with one headlight out, and/or rust below the fuel door?! Like 80% of the subies I see are like that.

My synchros have gotten on my last nerve. Time to swap the 5MT. What other years and models will work, and have the same gearing as a 95 legacy brighton wagon?

At the same time, I read that someone tried it anyway, and had good results-----until the computer learned the throttle deadzone and the performance issue returned.

Gloyale--- While reading up on TPS adjustments, I read that procedure only works for 4-wire TPS.... no?

Ok, let's make this simple for everyone... What is the biggest tire I can fit on a 95 legacy wagon, with a -31 offset, and just forester struts/springs, trimming and bashing included, that the front tires won't rub the inside when turning, and won't contact the spring perch? And how about with a 2 inch SJR lift kit? And with a 4 inch SJR lift?

Gloyale--- yous said "you probably will also need a full 2"-4" of full strut top/blocked down lift to clear them well." "blocked down"... huh?

I'm running 01 forester monroe quick struts front & rear. I put outback end link mounts in the back, thinking I needed them, but I should've grabbed the TA mounts instead. Right? I have a set of 5x100 to 5x5 25mm adapters to go with the wheels, which are -6 offset. That's where the offset I mentioned earlier comes from...

The only reason I tried it was because I could've swore SJR Scott wrote somewhere that he fit that size tire without a full lift. Guess I misconstrued what he may have ACTUALLY said...

Could you elaborate on that? Not understanding where to check for .20 with a guage...

Backstory: I'm dead set on putting Grabber AT2 235/75-15's on the subacabra. I guess it's too early in the game to call her that just yet. Doris is what I meant. Virgin White 95 Leggy brighton wagon. So just for kicks I pulled off the tires from my 79 C10 Bonanza and tried to test fit em on ol girl. I bought some 5x100 to chevy 5x5 1" adapters because I'm too lazy to source some yota wheels and redrill em, and I wanted "new and sexy" anyway and the wheels they sell online looked like dog rump roast in anything but 5x5. Everything in 5x100 is all tuner rice. Sooo.... I've got my eye on some 15x7 American Racing wheels with a -6 offset. Picture for sexy time. http://www.americanracing.com/wheelSpecs/1945/275/20340/ar172-baja I put the adapters on and went to put the truck tires on and ran into the tire hitting the front most corner of the rear fender, by the passenger rear door. So much that it prevents the lug studs from lining up with the wheel. So here in lies the question. Aside from a 2 to 4 inch strut lift, to even fit the damn meats in that well, I need adjustment. What can I do to pull the tire more towards the center of the well(towards the rear)?

1LT - Yes and yes, changed out water pump last winter, didn't change belt. I know I know, I should've... Derp

Does it all the time. Put a "spacer" on the rear O2, so no codes. Not sure what you mean with the being in Washington comment... Maybe engine/trans mounts overdue for changing?

Oh, and no, car isn't new to me. I've had it since late summer last year. This is a new development however. Been doing this for about 2 months.

No CEL, 260K, maneuvers just fine in tight spaces. All tires exact same, same tread % and everything. Clutch test checks out as well, however, the pilot bearing does squeal ever so gently when idling... If that helps.

I've been noticing this weird tick in my car's personality lately. She likes to buck like crazy in 2nd, around 2k to 2250 RPM, and from about 1850 to 2250 in third, if I'm just puttin along. like tailing traffic on 405, not moderate, even hard throttle. just chillin. I'm no pinball wizard, but I'm leaning towards either MAF malfunction or front cat clogged. rear is gutted already, due to misdiag for a failing fuel pump, TPS has been swapped with a scrapyard model of same MY range just to test, as well as the coilpack, which looks newer and actually has a part number versus the old one that looked like a Chinese Special. Your thoughts?

I just checked em out. Trailing arm spacers, a pitch stop, and full custom. Does full custom offer strut bottom spacers or what?

I see this thread died circa Obama's inauguration. That's enough time for SJR Scott or SOMEONE to have come up with something by now. Amirite? You guys were on the right path, but it looks like maybe it was a dead end?? I'm trying to run 235/75r15's on my 95 brighton wagon with forester struts and a set of 19 mil 5x100 to 5x5 adapters and some grabber AT2's on 7" American Racing AR172 -6 offset wheels. If I have paid attention, our stock offset is +53. With this setup, it goes to -25, which is doable as far as fender clearance and what I believe to be an acceptable low offset. The problem however lies in the spring perch. If you go to any tire size/offset comparison site, it'll tell you that the tallest and widest tire you can run before hitting the spring perch *with my calculations* is a 215/75r15. I'm not comfortable running more than an inch of wheel spacers, nor a crazy offset wheel, because I despise doing wheel bearings. Any new developments for strut bottom lifting?

Would you care to take a minute to explain the process, and what these steps and rules are? I'm on the fence about whether I'm gonna roll the dice and just slap the halves together, or take it to a machine shop/builder and have them assemble the shortblock...

Alright. Thanks fellas