punx2400

Want to buy a specific set of wheels for my 95 leggy wagon, but they don't come in 5x100 spec. They do however come in 5x114... Can I pull 5x114 hubs from another model and put them in my current bearing housing, or do the 114 hubs/housings use a different wheel bearing also? I'm already going to pull the rear housings off a later model to go with rear discs. Basically what I'm asking, are 114 hubs the same dimensions as far as shaft diameter/length/spline count, to keep my current cv axle and bearing setup?

So I should just sell/scrap my stripped and split 25 and go buy another core, but this time, don't do anything but a ring job, then slap those 22 heads on and go. Roger.

Those analogies are pretty kickass too, btw.

I like shootin craps. Eff it. Roll em.

what about the bottom end? Like torquing the halves improperly/using too much fujibond/installing wrong bearings? You're scaring me here with this "expect a couple failures" business.

NPR. I'll do what I can. If not, factory rings are the next best thing, yeah? Your opinion on ACL Race Bearings? That's what was listed as Premium/Performance on Rockauto. I'm not trying to build a 6 second car, I just think for the few extra bucks, I could get the good stuff, or what I'm under the impression is good... How bout con rod bearings? As far as the skirt knurling, do you have any links to say a tutorial video or a write up or something? I'm having a hard time picturing just WTF I'd be doing, and can't find anything on it besides pictures. That, and one's "pretty tight" could easily be mistaken for another's sloppy as hell, or even waaaay too tight.

Machine shops. Got it. Well, I'm the installer, so unless I learn how to properly file to fit, I guess that's out. Meanwhile, since I'll be going with the original pistons in untouched bores, I WILL need the .25 over sized rings because of wear, not the STD size, right? The motor has 130k on it. Thanks in advance

Good. That'll save me some cheddar. I forgot to mention the skirt knurling in my last question. Who can do that for me and what's the ballpark figure on the price tag?

Hey GD, Glad you schooled us on that whole honing misconception. I was ready to take my block halves down to the machine shop for cleaning, inspect the bores, and honing if needed. I was also going to replace my pistons, but I'm not so sure now. The reason being 2 of them have scuffing on the skirts, which I believe to be normal, whereas 2 have a pretty gnarly abrasion. Take a look, tell me what you think. It sounds like I was about to go throw a bunch of money out the window... Normal wear I assume https://ibb.co/cgKFOF Abrasion(can barely feel it with your fingernail https://https://ibb.co/iq9tAv Other scratched piston skirt, after a minute of Scotch Brite'ing https://ibb.co/nc00qv

Sweet, thanks for the input fellas!

Uuuuugh... Subie steelies are just so damn ugly though. Haha

Muchas garcias, seen your.

1995 legacy wagon. Dropping in a frankenmotor with a 99 outback 2.5 block. Do I use my existing mounts/pitch stop, or 2.5 mounts?

I also went a bit overkill and duct taped the plug real good to make sure I'd never have to deal with water getting in there again... ????

I had this problem just last month. I just disconnected the rear (for me) o2 plug, scraped all the corrosion out of the female end, sprayed the hell out of it with electric contact cleaner and compressed air and hooked it back up. No MIL since. I guess the rubber boot inside the female end gets worn and lets moisture from rain/puddles in there and causes problems.

Okay cool, thanks for the example. That really helps. So if I kept that aftermarket wheel with the dimensions it has, but maybe in a 7", put 235/75r15's on them, with the forester suspension, I should be golden right? I should've stated my intention beforehand. The car is ugly. Dented, rusted out really has no character aside from being a modest little grocery getter. It's my DD. I figured I'd put some big tires on it and a lift, give it a rugged look, make it look a little less sissified. I'm not looking to take it up to Walker and beat it senseless, just enough clearance to go puddle jumpin every now and then.

I have been reading alot on this sight over the last few months because I was excited about the idea of lifting my 95 wagon, and I'm pretty sure I'm gonna go get a 4" EJ lift kit from Scott at SJR soon. However... Just in the last hour I've read about 5 threads on this whole "excessive wheel offset/wheel bearing" dilemma. Is it really THAT bad, or do you trail guys really go through wheel bearings rapidly? I don't see how it's possible to run significantly larger tires WITHOUT using negative offset wheels and/or wheel spacers, for the tires to clear the frame at full lock. Also, this is my plan. Tell me if I'm dreaming big, or just bat spoob crazy. 1995 Legacy Brighton wagon Frankenmotor 4" SJR lift '01 Forester struts and springs all around Gabber AT2's in 265/70R15's 15" American Racing AR172 Baja (15x8, 5x114.3mm, -19 offset, 3.75 backspace, 83.06 cb) 2" 5x100 to 5x114.3 adapter/spacers Will this work??