torpedo51

Ah - never mind. I found a video explaining how to release the lock on the clip, and then a special (extra small) de-pin tool. Splicing now. Thanks!

Got it, thanks. Is there a trick to removing the wire from the plastic connector? Even my smallest jewelers screwdrivers are too big for what I think is the release-hole. I was hoping to splice and shrink-wrap, rather than to use a wire tap. Thanks!

Sorry - I'm almost following this... which are you describing? B? A. ECM pin >> + 12v signal >> [LED WARNING LIGHT] >> ground/earth B. + 12v (presumably an "ignition on" wire) >> [LED WARNING LIGHT] >> ECM pin >> ground/earth Thanks!

Thanks. I'm trying to capture this at the ECM, because I don't have a harness for a Subaru dashboard. Is it C11 on this diagram? Thanks!

Found a vacuum leak in a hard-to-see place. Huzzah!

Hi, I have a 2007 Impreza engine in my VW Syncro camper. The ECU and engine harness are Subaru but the fuse panel, relay plate and dashboard are VW. For that reason, I don't have a check engine light on my dash. I was wondering if there is a way to tap into the Subaru ECU so that I can run a wire up to my dash and illuminate a custom "check engine light".

Every time that I put in the clutch and shift to neutral, the rpm drops to idle, then surges to 1800rpm EXACTLY THREE TIMES before settling back to idle. It happens every time. Always three surges. It was throwing a MAF code before I replaced the MAF sensor, but that didn't help. I've also replaced the O2 sensor twice with no effect. No codes being thrown currently. Thanks in advance

My understanding after speaking with the company that performed the engine conversion on my van a few weeks ago, is that they've revised the factory ECU (fuel map, etc?) and explicitly mentioned the need to do this to suppress meaningless fault codes. So I've driven 10,000 miles now, and I've made periodic observations using my OBD2 hand held. I've only had one recurring code that turned out to be legit and remedied with a new MAF (I'll clean the old one and hold on to it for future testing). I also had a CV axle mounted speed sensor that was missing one of its three magnets... causing an occasional hiccup when "flying straight and level" but no fault codes (behavior confirmed with the vendor). I haven't talked to them about adding a CC yet. Perhaps later this week. In the interim, I'm still wondering why there isn't an aftermarket CC solution for this model and narrow range of years? Vendors have reproduced the CC for other models and years, but not mine. I'm wondering if I could simply obtain used equipment, and replace the steering wheel buttons with my own? Ideas? Thanks in advance.

I have a 2007 Impreza EJ25 SOHC installed in my VW Syncro camper. I'd like to add a factory cruise control. I've looked at a few online vendors. I see many direct fit (not universal kits) that fit the Impreza, but none for years between 2004-2011. Am I missing something obvious? Thanks in advance.

I know that the gasket set may be used for multiple variations, and I may not end up using all of these. I don't want to miss one of these during the assembly stage of my project. I removed the "easy ones" from the picture. A - NOT thermostat (smaller than the included thermostat gasket) B - turbo equipment C - EGR D E F - turbo equipment G - turbo equipment H J K - case plugs? L - case plus for wrist pins? Slightly too big to fit into recessed bore on case! M - compression washer - for what? N O P Q R S - turbo equipment

Instead of honing, my machine shop blew it and bored the cylinders to .020. &$#*&<$!#!!! I can't find pistons anywhere... Help?! I prefer not to sleeve it, if that's even possible with this case.

Found it! Pics attached. I confirmed with KEP that this adapter plate *replaces* the factory timing cover. 1985 Subaru DL = 1808 GVWR; 1964 VW BUs = 2470 GVWR; I'm certain it doesn't love the extra 662 lbs Thanks for the ProTip. I'm also using lots of assembly lube throughout.

Found hydraulic lifters during the build, so now I'm thinking its an 1984+ ??

According to the Non-Factory service manual that I have and the build video that I used, the boomerang on each and every rod must face the engine front. Worth noting - each connecting rod was hand etched with an arbitrary (?) number that spanned the seam where the rod and its mate came together. In other words, I was trivial to match each rod with its own cap. (see photo) Here are the four hand etched numbrers from each of my pistons 45, 2, 34, 14 I weighed them on a scale (metric and imperial) and didn't find any matches to these numbers, e.g. 30.45g

Hi, Yes - its in a 1964 VW Bus, with a 5 speed manual transmission (and a Kennedy adapter plate). I'll have a look at the video. Thx!

Hi - build going good. Shortblock complete. I found an EA81 build on YouTube that was pretty thorough, and contained the exact pistons and rings (with the tab) that I've got. I don't have a FSM, but another member suggested that it was in the FSM on a specific page. Here's what was recommended by the video builder and what I did (see picture): This is piston 1. The arrow points towards the front of the engine (for the benefit of novices: the front of engine has the pulleys, the timing gears are on the back of the engine) The pins on the pistons point towards each other as someone else noted above (e.g. pins on pistons 1 & 3 point to each other) The tang on the upper oil control rail ring faces down towards the corrugated oil control ring KEY: TOP = top ring MID = middle ring TOP OIL = top oil rail ring OIL CTRL = corrugated oil control ring LOWER OIL = lower oil rail ring Note - my pistons were NOT marked to indicate upwards or forwards. They were all punched "STD" (standard size) on the piston face, with the ring pin extruding to the left. In other words, if you look at this picture of piston #1, you can see "STD" punched "upside down", and when piston #3 is installed adjacently, it's punch is "right side up". Thank you!

I apologize in advance for asking dumb questions. I disassembled two of these engines, then sent them off to a shop for machining, and now half of the components are missing. I'm working with what I have. I was about to install the heads on the shortblock just now when I noticed that one of the mounting bosses is broken off. See picture. I also noticed that both heads are identical... so the bosses will face the front of engine on the left side (cylinder 1) and the back of the engine on the right side (cylinder 4). Does anyone know what mounts to these bosses? I'm looking at pics on the Internet, and none show the engine installed. I'm struggling to guess what is installed on these bosses on the REAR of the engine facing the transmission. I don't see any motor mounts in this basket case... so I'm assuming the engine was hanging on to the transmission through the adapter plate, and I have a "motor mount-ish support crossmember" under the front of the engine (spanning from left to right under the front pulley) in my VW bus (its a bar that spans between between the taillights) Thanks in advance!

We seem to have lost the timing cover in our shop which is full of recycled/remanufactured parts. We could use a picture to help the guys on the shop floor identify it. I've included a picture of the shortblock, ready to have the timing cover and heads installed. Thanks!

Yep - thanks for that. I read in some half believable posting elsewhere that the pin and tabbed rail ring prevent spinning such that the gaps become accidentally aligned. The rationale was that the piston/rings are sideways in a horizontally opposed engine and gravity would take affect: the gaps on the oil control rails would eventually float to the top (towards the sky) If there's any truth to this, my best guess is that the UNtabbed ring is expected to float such that the gap faces the sky, the tabbed ring's gap should be spaced somewhere away from that. To force that spacing, the expansion ring seam needs to straddle the pin, and the tabbed oil control rail is offset from the pin and from the untabbed ring. That sucks, because the pin and floating rail gap have to be 180 deg... which violates the "120/120/120" rule of spacing the gaps. Of course this all seems bunky because the upper two main compression rings require no such "tab" to stay in position, even though they are also suspended "sideways" My piston kit is from ITM... can't find any info or diagrams for this. Ugh.

I'm rebuilding this EA81, and see two things that I've never seen before. I have an ITM piston kit, and it came with no instructions. How do I align the expansion ring on the pin located in the groove? The break in the ring straddles the pin? What am I supposed to do with the tab on the ring? Is this the bottom or top ring? See pictures

Here's some pics of a cylinder head. See anything useful? Pictures of lifters to follow.

Yep!

Thanks for the reply. I don't trust the valve covers (no stickers, been painted). I see a few threads here that have some tidbits... the trend that I think that I see is a single break in production 1980-1981, and 1982-1989. I'm wondering what the change was between 81 and 82. I think mine has hydraulic lifters. The intake manifold that I have is custom (its a 1982 GM TBI). -- T

Hi, I'm rebuilding my EA81, and I can't seem to figure out what year it was made so that I can order accurate rebuilt parts (gasket set, bearings, etc) Its currently part of a VW bus project... I don't have any record of any prior Subaru VIN. I can try to obtain pictures of the head gasket mating surfaces, and whatever casting codes are present. I think we tried to find casting codes before, and didn't see anything definitive that linked the case to a year/make/model. Is there anything else that will help me? I have a few service manuals, but I don't see a section for "identifying" the engine. Thanks! 67752945031__5E29556E-25BA-445B-B443-537F138297CA.HEIC