GreaseMonkey03

I don't know a whole lot about cars but I'm pretty sure the thermostat housing is plastic and the port is on the wp body. Because I'm staring at it. Although I know this engine was rebuilt at some point and Tb and wp were done so who knows if they swapped it out from the original design with whatever they had around.

Not swapping the motor or drivetrain. Suspension bits and cross members. Anything else that will fit. Like the oil cooler.

The 03 forester is the donor car. 97 outback is the keeper. If anyone knows of anything else I can swap over while I have it, lmk! I'm for sure taking the nice aluminum front spacers. I'll take whatever else I find. But if anyone knows anything specific please feel free to tell me. I'm doing this all tonight and tomorrow. That's about the only time I have. Although anything not needing a lift will have a couple more days before the fozz goes to the wrecker.

Extra port is on the pumps lower neck not the t stat cover. metal line isn't the greatest but that will get changed. As long as the pumps bolt up and move the same amount of coolant I'm golden.

Oh I don't doubt that. The rear bushing setup is obviously different. I just figured the company or the website would be helpful to someone. They have a lot more than just control arms and the interchange/part look up could be useful also. Especially for junk yard pullers.

Hey guys. I'm elbows deep into my outback/forester swap. I'm wondering the following. The sohc in the forester has an oil cooler which is fed off the water pump. That water pump is new. The dohc in the outback doesn't have the oil cooler but I will be doing a timing belt on it soon. Can I swap the cooler/pump from the forester into the outback? I don't have the cover off the outback but the pump base looks the same as every other Subaru. Any flow issues that anyone knows about?

The only other thing I can think of if you've already checked your other options is the starter relay. You mentioned hearing a clicking noise so I doubt that's what it is but just to be safe you can swap it with another relay and see if it still happens. Just so you've checked everything out before spending the money on a starter.

Did you have it towed to the shop like that or did the previous owner do that? I may have misunderstood the op. I'd start with the rear diff. Weakest link in the chain. Since the car drives I doubt anything snapped. And a sharp turn is where the diff does most of its work.

One day you will tell the story of this momentous day and laugh. Today is not that day. I wonder what else broke. ????

You mentioned you thought the previous owner said the starter was replaced. Was it?

Not sure if this is the right place to post this but wasn't sure of the alternative. Ordered two complete (with ball joint) lower control arms today for an 05 outback with steel originals. The replacements were aluminum. I'm sure some of you know the company but they looked like quality pieces and you can get them cheap on Amazon. Since I see so many asking about Aluminum bits, this could be a good alternative. The website could also be a decent place to figure out what parts will fit your car and they have a parts interchange search bar. At the very least, the website could be a useful tool. http://partsonline.mevotech.com/default.aspx

Wtdash do you know if harnesses are the same from one year to the next? I'm wondering if there arent connector differences from one to the other. He may just need to swap the harness back over from the old motor. I don't know enough in particular about Subaru motors to know, but I know from other vehicles I've swapped, sometimes things don't play well together from one year to the next. Do these require any re learn procedures?

oh boy. So many things could be causing this. Most of it could very well be a ground you forgot to put back. There could also be a plug or two that wasn't plugged in or fell back out or that doesn't transfer from one motor to the other. Most if not all of this can be remedied. Any time I swap motors I put them side by side and try to make sure everything from the old motor gets swapped over. You'd be surprised how many small differences there can be. As far as the map/maf, it sounds like the computer is looking for something that isn't there. In which case the codes will probably never go away. I'm guessing you will end up having to swap the ecu. Did you swap the transmission too?

Anything related to cam/crank sensors would throw a code. I'm guessing he checked codes because he knows which cylinders are misfiring. These are coil over plug, the likelihood of all three coils or plugs going at once is unlikely. Ditto on the carbon build up. One or possibly two cylinders could possibly be affected but the likelihood of three and all on the same bank is also unlikely. You will want to look for ONE issue that will by itself cause all three cylinders on one bank to misfire. That's really where you want to start. It could be a ground, a vacuum leak (although this will usually be accompanied by a random multiple misfire code or affect both banks) or even a break in the harness (those pesky mice might be at it again) For multiple individual components (like valves) to foul up on one bank only and all at once is damn near impossible. Keep it simple. Check the small stuff and go from there. I put a Japanese motor into an American TriBeCa not too long ago. These motors really aren't that complex. Aside from having to swap over a few components, they're simple creatures. If you have a scanner, check for pending codes or history codes. There may be some hidden gems in there that could give you more information.

You my friend need some throne time with engineering schematics, TCM logic algorithms and a blue pill. As for me, I'll stick to car and driver and throw a solenoid at it when I'm done. Lmao

This car have a pressure sensor filter? Quick search online revealed that could also cause problems with 0400. I've never had to change one before but might be worth trying for a few bucks that it cost.

I know that you know that you should know before taking a guess. Lol. There may be additional codes now. I've had a TCC solenoid throw codes up until I changed the solenoid but it didn't fix the shifting issue it was having. It still revs out and slams in to 2nd. But this was on a different car with a different transmission. And it didn't render the car inoperable. In this particular case, the solenoid was gunked up from the TC basically deteriorating. Doesn't mean that's what is happening in your case. To be honest, I would suspect that a bad solenoid would impede shifting, not necessarily movement. Perhaps it's time to rebuild or swap it out?

Check for vacuum leaks. Small ones affect idle but are fine above 1000rpm or so. Check engine light will help determine what else it could be.

You should test the battery under load against its rated cold cranking amps. That's what turns it over. Definitely check the alternator charge rate and the connections, plugs, etc. if everything checks out ok, next time it starts clicking, give the starter a couple of hits with a hammer and then try to start it. If it starts, you need a starter.

Compression is easy enough to check but was it blowing smoke before the misfire issue? I'm wondering if it isn't just dumping unburned fuel into the exhaust. If you pulled the plugs and the tube seals are leaking that could also cause it to smoke for a little while.

Compression is easy enough to check but was it blowing smoke before the misfire issue? I'm wondering if it isn't just dumping unburned fuel into the exhaust.

I would check grounds first. For all three on one bank to be misfiring that's the first place i would check.

You would probably have a code if it was the solenoid. I'm guessing the converter is toast.

Stupid question, but did you check fluid level? What does it do if you put it in gear and give it gas?

Just to avoid a possible expensive fix, make sure the shift cable isn't binding or is adjusted properly and well lubricated. Does your car have the PRND indicator on the dash? If so, make sure it matches up with the position on the shifter.