lmdew

NGK copper core is all you need. Subaru or NGK plug wires.

No worries. Better to ask! Either wire is fine. You are just providing a ground to the computer to tell it to send the codes.

I've also taken it to a good trans shop for an estimate and they have read the codes. Some will share what they find for free.

The 5 pin connector is up under the drivers kick panel close to the center counsel. It taped to the wire bundle. Yes hard to find but it's there.

2.2 swap. Runs for ever.

Make sure the Hill Holder is fully released, if it has it. Dent in the trans pan from lifting? It only takes a little.

Yes KYB are good struts. Another person posted a like issue a month ago. Compare the old to new. Are they the same with no weight? If so the spring rate may be different. If you step on the front bumper, do you get normal compression?

Electronic Specialties 180 LOADpro Dynamic Test Leads

Normal rebound when you jump on the bumper? If you jack it from the jack pad just aft of the oil pan, do the springs compress as normal?

Sounds like you still have air trapped in the system. Temp switch for the fans is up high on the crossover pipe on top of the engine. Is the temp gauge operating normally? Good Subaru, warms quickly to the same temp every time and stays there.

Dito on GD. He's moved on from Subaru to Military Trucks I believe.

2006 is as new as I'll go.

They all should be the same housing. Did you compare the old to new? I've replaced many and as long as the fan is clocked correctly all holes will line up.

Always a good idea to turn it through by hand, through all four TDC strokes. But as he said you are good. Glad you got it.

LOADPRO is a great tool to add to your multimeter.

Subaru parts. www.car-part.com may help you find one.

Yes to the above!

If it runs fine, do the seals valve cover, cam & crank, timing belt and oil pump reseal and call it a day. No need to rebuild. If it isn't broken don't fix it. IMHO. Great engines 300K+ miles and still going strong.

Well, I've been off island for a month for work. Yesterday, with the cruise on, RPM dropped for a second two and then came back right away. This happened 2x in 15 minutes. I was down to a 1/4 tank, so I filled up. Well with a full tank it happened again. It died completely but started right back up after shifting into N. No CEL light or codes. I poked around in the engine bay today, moving wires... Nothing I could see. I'm sure it will run great again.

www.car-part.com good source of original used Subaru parts. Don't get an aftermarket alt.

Self-serve yard and pull one. Pretty cheap! Go in and drill the bolts out. Put in standard bolts when you bolt it in.

Coolant Temperature Sensor been changed?

Frame shop? I've had pretty good luck with a winch. You have to strap the car to a tree or something secure so it does not move as the brakes are not enough. Hook to the old bumper support before you remove it and see what you can get. The problem is all the sheetmetal that is moved in is not hooked to the support. Another option is to cut out a good section at a yard and place it over the top. It will not be perfect and you will have to do some fitting to get it close. JB weld and some screws to hold it in place while the JB cures, then grind off the screw heads and body filler. No weld fix.