lmdew

Remove the lower kick panel on the drivers side. Get your head under there and look up at the side of the airbox. You will see the motor and linkage.

As I'd indicate earlier,: The temp control is a cable that routes down to the passenger side of he center counsel. you can look up and see it move as you slide the temp lever. The vent control is electrical, push button control. Yes, sometimes it's the board in the controller that fails. You can change out the board. It goes down to an actuator on the drivers side of the center counsel. Pull the lower kick panel and then crawl up under there and you will see the linkage. I've had the linkage fail, the actuator or the control board. You Pull and Pay yards are your friends. Poke around there first is always a good idea. Once up under the dash, you could disconnect the linkage and move it where you want and safety in place somehow. Most of time it's the circuit board on the dash.

www.car-part.com is a good source for used parts. You can get an idea of what used engines are available and there costs.

Pictures of the Cam, and crank alignment marks would help, but that will require the timing cover to be pulled back off. Most likely bent valves. They could do a leak down test on the cylinders, they would hear where the air is leaking out of. They need to have experience with doing this for it to be valid and the timing marks need to be correct. Pulling the valve covers and getting a look at the cam and rocker arms may provide some insight as well. Good Luck!

Too bad you are so far into the engine already. Yes, I'd say timing as well. I know you said everything was good. Did you add some oil into the plug hole/cylinder and check the compression again on each cylinder? Were you holding the throttle wide open when checking and had a good battery? Did it jump right to 30 on the first stroke and then not go any higher?

Replace the compressor and evaporator coil with good used from Colorado. New Condenser. The old condenser was restricted just blowing through it. Serviced today and it's working great!

u-joinf first, I'd think. You can put the FWD fuse in and see if it makes a difference.

could be. I've had some good luck with fuel tank additive to clean the sensors. It's a resister on the level arm. How's it work when you fill it? Gallons added, add up?

How much of it is there? Pretty much just there for an accident, so not a big deal if it's not there. Not much you can do without pulling the dash. Weld, not with all the wire and insulation on the inside. Bracket and rivets, limited strength.

Corrosion/green crap in the wire. There should not be a significant voltage drop under load. I just fixed the better half brake lights on 2006 Forester. No brake lights, all three out. Of course the brake switched ohmed out just fine. I swapped it with a spare I had. Fixed. When I opened up the old switch, one contact was pitted and burned.

Hope all is well with you, family and the Subaru's. Merry Christmas and Happy New Year Larry

SENSOR, THROTTLE POSITION $19.75 $2.42 $0.00

Years ago I did an auto to manual swap. I have a post on the usmb that has the solution for the ecu to recognize the trans swap. If you do a search with Lmdew and trans swap you should find it. It was a bugger and took me a while to figure out. If you swapped electrical harness on the engine, I believe it should be fine. I've gone the other way, using a 90-93 engine in a 96+ Subaru. EGR can be worked around if needed.

Two tone makes it easy to find! Several folks that I've fixed front end hits for love there two tone Subarus.

I'll be back in the yards this week. Let me know if you want 1 or 2 of them.

Correct Timing belt installation. Make sure it turns over by hand freely. Pull the valve covers and watch the cams/rocker arms. Does it feel like there is compression on each cylinder as you turn it over by hand? If so throttle wide open as you crank it over with the throttle wide open to check the compression on each cylinder.

Fixed after the Condenser change and I had the Navy Exchange Auto shop service it, pull a vac and charge. All good. Now onto the 2002 AC system. That's life. All in the choices we make.

One I saw this last week were 4 pin. I should have pulled one for you.

Very unlike Subaru to have such a limited part: 2002 Subaru Impreza TS - AC Compressor 2002-2003 Only is what the yards and Car-part.com are listing. Subaru Parts shows a little more of a year range 2002 - 2007 but it's hard to tell in the yards. Looking for a good AC Compressor. Thanks, Larry

I'll be in the Colorado Yards the next couple of days. 93 3 pin TPS? If I see one do you want me to pull it and mail it to you? Larry

Easy fix. I've done several of them. While you can pull out the support, if you have a self serve yard and you can cut out the parts you need from a undamaged car that's the way to go. You can cut out the damage and weld in the new parts. Cutout more than you need and then trim back.

Shop said blockage somewhere. i need those CO Junk yards!

A leaking injector will bleed off the pressure overtime and it takes a bit to build it back up.

Yep, good parts or spare Subaru. I put well over 300K on a few Impreza wagons. You've done most of the large items already. Keep it going.

If I turn off the AC when I feel the cooling going down and leave it off for 5 minutes or so and turn it back on all is good. I pulled the Fan and Evap Cover to take a look at it. You can see much, but it looks like new. I'm going to talk to the AC Shop and see what they think. Put it back together if they don't have a solution. I don't want to throw parts at it. Boy I miss the 90 fans you could pull with a few screws. Clip together plastic everything, on the 2002 and later, I'm sure.