lmdew

Well, since you said "Fired right up after timing belt/water pump kit was installed, but when all was reassembled, car misfired then would not start." First thing I'd check would be the T-Belt. Make sure the timing is correct! Yes you should hear the fuel pump run when you first turn on the key for a few seconds. Subaru fuel pumps are much better than aftermarket pumps! You can just put a little gas into the intake and see if it fires up to check and see if it's Fuel or Spark.

Check Engine Light on? It should be setting a code.

Disconnect the negative battery lead. 30 minutes late hook it back up.

Even it's old you can still pull codes from the computer. Any Check engine light on? Clean the grounds and connectors. Be very systematic in your troubleshooting, documenting what you do and if the fault changes with any maintenance.

junk yard

Better half said the AC was not working. When I got back on island, I took a look. The belt was broken the compressor locked up. The tensioner was was not turing freely. A quick trip to my island parts supply and I had used parts. I bolted everything up and charged the system and it seems great! Sweet

Hope you have been soaking them in PB Blaster or something like that. Rust belt.

Thats the most rust I've seen. Most likely not going to clean that one up. How are the other cylinders? Get your money back and get a different one. What year? www.car-part.com is a good search tool and will give you an idea of prices. Self serve junk yards will be cheaper.

My Daughter lost one of her keys and was looking for another. $350 and the car has to be there to program it. Crazy. Any alternative. This is why I don't buy anything newer than 2006. Thanks

Buy a rust free body and drop your good driveline into it. Crazy amount of work. What was the costs?

Subaru Parts only! Used Subaru are better than aftermarket new IMHO. Hit the yard and pull what you need. You get a little experience with removal and if something breaks, just go to the next Subaru. The check engine light is on? Could be a fuel pump going out.

Hit the junk yard and get the car side of the fuel pump plug and a foot or so of wire. That way, you can hook the pump right up to a battery. Since it's a saddle tank, it will not pump out the driver's side of the tank. Only way to get that side is to pull the sending unit and siphon the gas out.

Check the radiator fluid level in the radiator, not the overflow when it's cold. Is if full? Is coolant pulling back from the overflow when the engine cooling down? Does it run rough all the time or only when warm? Compression check? Sounds like head gaskets may be in your future.

Usually just for the downstream sensor.

125 foot-pounds it what I take the bolt to.

Yes, you'll see which way the clutch cable is pulling the valve when you have the clutch depressed. The other way is open. Just remove the clutch cable and move the HH to full open.

Thanks, the wheels and tires sold before I got to try them. Thanks for the feedback.

Yep, I disconnected the one on my better half's 2005. Good catch, I forgot all about it.

Can she shift gears when this happens? Most failures would be the opposite, where the car does not go. Broken half-shaft, drive-shaft.

I know the best way to check would be to try one front and back. Anyway, anyone has a 215/60/16 on a 2002 Impreza Wagon? Thanks Larry

External leaks. Try the Subaru coolant conditioner. Works well.

Ran just like a Subaru should today. 15 miles.

Engine issue came back today. The car has been running great with no issues for over a month now. Yesterday, going down the freeway it happened again. Loss of power, rpms dropped going 60 mph. I shifted to N, and gave it a little gas, RPM went to 3K, I dropped it back into D and all was good for a few minutes. Then the freeway turned into a parking lot, with bumper to bumper traffic for about 5 miles. Power loss came back numerous times. RPM would drop a little, no power, it was like I was coasting. Drop it into N, RPM would increase with gas, drop it back into D and I had power again. Now it only lasted a few minutes and the power loss came back. No CEL. I got to my exit and headed home, only 2 miles to go. Emergency Flashers on and the power loss continued. A couple of times the engine died. Shift to N and crank, the engine would start back up. Drop it in D and limp along. I got it in the garage, Park selected and gave it a little gas. RPM 3K but it was hunting, RPM between 2500 and 3500. I turned it off and started it back up and now it would hold a steady RPM. OBDII showed pending miss fire on all 4. I've never had a Subaru perform this way and so intermittent over months. Weeks of normal driving, then it acts up again. NUTS, I say.

Hard to find folks like that. Send more work his way!

What year? Rear only has toe on most unless someone put camber bolts in.