lmdew

Shop said blockage somewhere. i need those CO Junk yards!

A leaking injector will bleed off the pressure overtime and it takes a bit to build it back up.

Yep, good parts or spare Subaru. I put well over 300K on a few Impreza wagons. You've done most of the large items already. Keep it going.

If I turn off the AC when I feel the cooling going down and leave it off for 5 minutes or so and turn it back on all is good. I pulled the Fan and Evap Cover to take a look at it. You can see much, but it looks like new. I'm going to talk to the AC Shop and see what they think. Put it back together if they don't have a solution. I don't want to throw parts at it. Boy I miss the 90 fans you could pull with a few screws. Clip together plastic everything, on the 2002 and later, I'm sure.

Thanks.

2002 Impreza, the compressor had locked up, so I put a used one in. It worked fine for a few weeks. Then the AC stopped blowing cold air after 30 minutes of use. High pressure line leaking. I changed it with the one off my 2005 Impreza. I change the o-rings, Compressor and Condenser. I had a service center pull a vacuum and service it. It worked fine for about 30 minutes and then stopped blowing cold. The Low pressure return line was frosted up again. Evaporator? So goes the island beater. Thanks, Larry

Island beater, low mileage 2005 Impreza Wagon. Nice cold AC. I was hit in the front before I got it. Low mileage, but no history on the T-Belt. I pulled the covers and it looked pretty new and there were marks on the cam and crank gears. OK, no need to change so I put it back together. As I was putting in the fans, I noticed the AC Condenser was rubbing up against the radiator. OK I can fix it. I repositioned the filter clamp, so it provided some additional room. All back together and all is well. The next morning no cold air. No signs of leaks, so one 12oz charge and it lasted for a day. New condenser ordered.

Well, since you said "Fired right up after timing belt/water pump kit was installed, but when all was reassembled, car misfired then would not start." First thing I'd check would be the T-Belt. Make sure the timing is correct! Yes you should hear the fuel pump run when you first turn on the key for a few seconds. Subaru fuel pumps are much better than aftermarket pumps! You can just put a little gas into the intake and see if it fires up to check and see if it's Fuel or Spark.

Check Engine Light on? It should be setting a code.

Disconnect the negative battery lead. 30 minutes late hook it back up.

Even it's old you can still pull codes from the computer. Any Check engine light on? Clean the grounds and connectors. Be very systematic in your troubleshooting, documenting what you do and if the fault changes with any maintenance.

junk yard

Better half said the AC was not working. When I got back on island, I took a look. The belt was broken the compressor locked up. The tensioner was was not turing freely. A quick trip to my island parts supply and I had used parts. I bolted everything up and charged the system and it seems great! Sweet

Hope you have been soaking them in PB Blaster or something like that. Rust belt.

Thats the most rust I've seen. Most likely not going to clean that one up. How are the other cylinders? Get your money back and get a different one. What year? www.car-part.com is a good search tool and will give you an idea of prices. Self serve junk yards will be cheaper.

My Daughter lost one of her keys and was looking for another. $350 and the car has to be there to program it. Crazy. Any alternative. This is why I don't buy anything newer than 2006. Thanks

Buy a rust free body and drop your good driveline into it. Crazy amount of work. What was the costs?

Subaru Parts only! Used Subaru are better than aftermarket new IMHO. Hit the yard and pull what you need. You get a little experience with removal and if something breaks, just go to the next Subaru. The check engine light is on? Could be a fuel pump going out.

Hit the junk yard and get the car side of the fuel pump plug and a foot or so of wire. That way, you can hook the pump right up to a battery. Since it's a saddle tank, it will not pump out the driver's side of the tank. Only way to get that side is to pull the sending unit and siphon the gas out.

Check the radiator fluid level in the radiator, not the overflow when it's cold. Is if full? Is coolant pulling back from the overflow when the engine cooling down? Does it run rough all the time or only when warm? Compression check? Sounds like head gaskets may be in your future.

Usually just for the downstream sensor.

125 foot-pounds it what I take the bolt to.

Yes, you'll see which way the clutch cable is pulling the valve when you have the clutch depressed. The other way is open. Just remove the clutch cable and move the HH to full open.

Thanks, the wheels and tires sold before I got to try them. Thanks for the feedback.

Yep, I disconnected the one on my better half's 2005. Good catch, I forgot all about it.