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Everything posted by lmdew
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190K Automatic Transmission. Runs well, new to me. Slight clicking FWD or REV when starting out mostly. I did put it up on a lift the other day. Driveshaft u-joints look OK. No noticeable movement. The Driveshaft does have 10 Degrees of rotation. The FWD Half-shafts are aftermarket, so I would think they may be the source. They feel tight. Rear Half-Shafts are good and Subaru.
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I picked up a 08 Outback, Auto Trans, 153K on it. PO said it did not run in the add, Dead. Well I got there and he said a friend came over the night before and they jumped it and it started. While I was there, he started it and it sounded like a great running Subaru. I bought it. He was very low on gas, that was my first stop. Well a mile or so down the road, the engine starts running real rough. So do I stop for gas or just head home. I headed home as it was only 5 miles. Well as I started up a slight grade, it died. Called a friend and we got a 1/4 tank in it. It tried to start but no go. We towed it around the corner to a side street and I had a tow truck come and get it. The oil is very dirty! That will be my first item. I'll test the VVT componets and pull them if needed to clean the screen. I hope an oil change takes care of things. May be a bit of Seafoam.
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The Better Halfs 06 Forester started dripping oil on the floor. I took a look and Bank 2 VVT was full of oil. A quick trip to the car wash and some Simple Green cleaned it up. After a day or two of short drives, I could see the Oil Pressure Switch for the VVT was wet. I cleaned it with brake cleaner, pulled it and cleaned it up a bit more. I reinstalled It and after a few days it still looks dry. An extra turn on the pipe threads most likely took care of it.
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Sorry, axle shaft has the circle clip which is spring loaded. Once the axle shaft is out, you can rotate the inner race to remove all the bearings and disassemble the outter joint. The Inner CV Joint has the snap ring on the axle. The joint slides apart once you have removed the circle clip at the rear of the CV joint, just inside the boot.
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With the axle out, I put it on a 2x4 and step on the axle shaft. With the boot pulled back or cut off, I put another 2x4 against the outer CV and hit the 2x4 with a BFH. Some of them have a snap ring instead of the circle clip. For those, you have to rotate the inner rack so you can remove one ball bearing at a time. Once all of them are out, you can pull the shaft back and remove the snap ring and inner race.
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I picked up an 05 Impreza OBS for a friend. It was hit in the front. The fellow that bought it from the insurance auction put a bumper on it. Runs great, made the trip from NM to CO without a problem. The headlighs are aftermarket and not good. I thought no problem, should be able to pick some up at the yard. Come to find out, 2005.... are all unique cars. I'm pretty sure, if I change everything, I could use 2005 - 2007 parts and may be more. Parts for the swap, Fenders, Hood, Headlights, Bumper... I miss the good old days!
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Crankshaft Keyway worn. Removed Key and cleaned up crankshaft with fine sandpaper. Installed crank gear and HB and torqued the bolt to 160 ftlbs. Installed new Idler pulleys and new DACO Timing Belt. Turned the engine over by hand and everything felt good and timing marks lined up correctly. Tried to start the engine, it wants to run but is just not there. With the gas to full throttle the engine will run. I ran out of time and had to head south. It has the old-style tensioner and it was very hard to compress.
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I looked at a 94 Impreza, only 145K. The Damper was completely gouged out. There was only about a 1/16" of the keyway still showing. Move up and down on the crank shaft 1/4". Key was moving in the gouged crankshaft 1/4". I stopped there as the owner didn't want to go any further. I have the key tig welded to the crankshaft. I know others have used JB Weld or just aligned the crankshaft gear and then torqued down the bolt as much as possible. I should have taken a picture.
