lmdew

As far as I know you are stretching the bolts so there would not need to be a retorque. GD could confirm for sure.

No new codes. They are on their way back to WA. Gas mileage is a little better. Subaru MAF back in.

2016 Forester, Had a lean on #4. I forget the code but it pointed to the O2 sensor or MAF. Nephew changed the to a Denso unit. Mileage dropped from 24 to 16. He swapped the original back, but mileage is still down. I told him don't troubleshoot with the parts cannon. MAF was the only thing he could get over the holidays in time. Is there a good Free OBDII app we could download on his phone to see the fuel trim and O2 sensor readings. Thanks, Larry

+1 on the pull. Good time to reseal or replace the rear breather plate on the engine as well. T Belt, Valve cover gaskets and anything else that's due.

Well, I did as much as I could over the weekend. Hard on the Christmas Holiday. She's heading for Queens NY, so if any USMB members are out there and are willing to help please let me know. The Forester is running well and I'm sure it will make it with no problems. Future maintenance items: - Valve cover gaskets - Front and rear brakes, currently about 40% pad life left - Cruise control is not working and Airbag litght is on. Most likely the clock spring. (Horn works) - Clock on the overhead not working, most likely need to be re-soldered. - Driver seat leather cover needs to be replaced. - Windshield wipers have a lot of play, most likely one of the rod ends have broken off - Rear Windshield wiper motor, the brushes are worn. I pulled the motor apart and cleaned the communicator and brushes. Who knows how long it will last. All pretty easy stuff, I wish I knew of all the items and had more time with the Forester.

Thanks

Good battery voltage. No prior accidents or work that I know of. Cruise and horn work so I doubt it's the clock spring wiring. Thanks

Not much help in the FSM: Any ideas? Thanks, Larry

Yards are the best, if you have ones you can walk through. I know it's winter up there so not the best time. www.car-part.com is a good source as well. The rear wiper arm is pretty standard. I have several if you need one. Larry

I've swapped many of them on 96-99 Outbacks. They just lay on top of the foam.

tirerack.com has some good tools and options for sizes that will work.

You will need to pull the complete dash out to get the heater box apart. I'd hit the self-serve yards in the area and do it there first. It's a job for sure. Not to hard but it takes time. You may find a car with the dash pulled out already to give you a good view.

Moved over. I believe the heated seats were an option. The year and model would help get you better info.

I think I have a controller or two at home. I'm out till the 19th.

www.car-part.com eBay? I'm sure I could find one here in Colorado.

Glad you found it and got the parts out. Change the fluid as previously recommended.

I'm not sure that the 95 and 99 controlers are not exactly the same. Yes the board is part of the control panel. You can replace just the borad. It's not hard, you just have to take your time. Small plastic lock tabs hold it in.

If the linkage/doors are moving freely, the board in the controller is most likely the cause. I've swapped out many of the boards over the years. Just take your time.

Happy to meet you at the Laurelwood Public house if you need help. Just a couple hour flight out from Colorado. Great fish tacos and Workhorse IPA. I was just there last week.

The temp control is a cable that routes down to the passenger side of the center counsel. you can look up and see it move as you slide the temp lever. The vent control is electrical, push button control. Yes, sometimes it's the board in the controller that fails. You can change out the board. It goes down to an actuator on the drivers side of the center counsel. Pull the lower kick panel and then crawl up under there and you will see the linkage. I've had the linkage fail, the actuator or the control board. You Pull and Pay yards are your friends. Poke around there first is always a good idea.

1+ broken CV joint. Parking brake on. Have someone hold the brake on, and shift into gear. Look to see if a CV joint/axle is spinning. They may have to give it a little gas.

WI rust will make maintenance a pain in the #ss.

Thanks for the additional Info. I had looked as well.

Use LoadPro on you meter and load the circuit when you are taking voltage readings. Yes you can load the circuit other ways, but most folks don't. I've posted a few times with links to you tube.

Or drop the 96 engine into the 99.