lmdew

I always go the other way 2.5 to 2.2. Never had a problem. Make sure all of you connections are good if you have not done that already. I'd you have a problem before the swap? Could be a cam or crank sensor is cutting out a higher RPM. Does it make a difference if you are under load or just in neutral?

Contact djmark7. I just sent him springs and top hats and he has new struts that he can not use as his strut towers were rusted out. djmark7 USMB is life! Members 181 posts NW New Jersey Sent 22 August 2013 - 10:01 PM welp spent money for naught rear strut tower rusted away from body, terminal looking for another one now, all i can spend is 1500, few and far between avail for that price

If you need a TPS I have several. When you crank and it doesn't start does it have spark? You may have a cam or crank sensor going out. An oil leak at the back of the engine is most likely coming from the breather plate. The RTV fails when the screws loosen. Also make sure you PVC valve is working.

Changed out the O2 and Temp Sensor! Thanks for the info. Larry

Data sent, thanks, Larry

Yes, should be between 25 and 29 mpg. Two fills will get you there almost three should be more than enough. Enjoy the drive.

two speed, at speed.

As far as I know it's the original cat and my be the original O2 sensor. New NGK plugs and good plug wires. Might have a good mid pipe for you, but I have been welding them as they crack around the welded joint in the mid pipe.

Either should be fine. Not that much of a difference. Make sure you get Subaru or NGK plug wires.

NOx passed, but I'll double check the EGR is opening. The old DOHC engine the HG were completely gone, dumping coolant into the oil. When I filled the radiator to get the car home, when I started it water shot out the radiator cap about 15 feet into the air. First time I ever saw that. I'm guessing the OP over heated it for a long time. I'll check the O2 sensor and see if the plugs look rich. I do have a spare CAT I could put in if I need to. Thanks, Larry

See new post, failed emssions.

It runs great. I pulled a trailer to Denver and back to get a frig. No CEL. A friend took it up to Denver for a relative and it failed emissions. I did tap into the IAC hose for the EGR pipe as the head could not be drilled. 95 2.2 with 155K on the engine and 320K on the car. HC GPM 1.0038 - Limit 1.2000 Passed CO GPM 41.6271 - Limit 15.0000 Failed CO2 392.0529 NOx GPM 1.0090 - Limit 2.0000 Passed Could the EGR Bypass be causing this? Thanks, Larry

Import experts on Ebay have good kits for $120 or so. All Idler pulleys, Belt Seals Re-seal the Oil pump and locktite the oil pump rear cover screws, new oring when installing the pump. Once you pull the timing covers you will see what's going on.

Those are in the center counsel area. You might just have something stuck in the retract reel. If its done, just grab a used one and install it. The window is most likely just the switch. Easy enough.

The starter gear moves out less than a 1/2". I'd turn the engine over by hand and if it's free and feels normal you should be able to push start it, go forward not backwards. If the starter was dragging down the engine RPM it may have died at idle. The read main seal almost never leaks but the breather cover almost always leaks and should be resealed. If you have the plastic plate, get the metal plate.

Not sure what year and engine you have but I have plenty of intakes with all of the stuff on them. If it mounts to the intake I most likely have it.

Keep the 95 and fix and give your brother the 92. Unless you really need AWD, the FWD will get better mileage and will go just about anywhere.

Remove the rear wiper arm Remove the cover and large nut Pull in inner panel Remove the Electrical connector Remove the 3 10mm bolts, I think it only 3. Reinstall in reverse order.

I'd also turn the engine over by hand to make sure it's free.

I have a 98 Outback that is going to a friend in Denver, CO. In Colorado Springs we don't have to do emissions but Denver does. I have not had problems running conversions through emissions but I have not had to do it in Denver. Any recommendations for testers? Thanks, Larry

Where have you gotten the press on sleeve from? I did a few searches but came up empty. I do have the kit, $140 from the local Subaru Dealer.

Pulled the Daughters 99 Impreza trans, the quill shaft has significant wear. I spent some time and sanded down the ridges and it's smooth now but the throwout bearing has more play than it should. Looking for a sleeve repair. Anyone have any feed back on this repair/kit? http://sumoparts.3dcartstores.com/TSK1-Transmission-Sleeve-Kit-for-SUBARU-Impreza-1993-2011-18-22-25-Non-turbo-Replaces-30502AA051_p_15.html#

Where is she located, may be there is a USMB member close by that could help.

Well it was off time on the crank buy about 10 teeth. I set the timing but still no compression. The PO had tried to turn it over and I guess he either damage valves or something let loose. Hard to see how it happened by hand (that's how he said he did it) but who knows. Still a pretty good deal for $500

Thanks, that's the way I'll go on the 95 dual port exhaust engine. Going in Sat1 Larry