lmdew

Before you buy anything, figure out what has failed! - Check the T-Belt and pulleys. You have to pull the front covers but you can do that by removing the radiator fans, leaving the radiator installed with no loss of coolant. - Check the Oil Filter for Metal Rule out the simple things first and if you need an engine, get a used 95 2.2 with EGR. It's a plug and play swap for the most part.

I have a stock Subaru Sub, $45 shipped. Larry

I think I'd just hit one of the You Pull and Pay yard and save $400. Subaru driveshafts don't fail very often. I've picked up a few cars that have lost the front U-joint and tore up the trans tail shaft but have always just put a stock one back in.

Yes, that blows. I always like to get engines and trans from cars that were hit good. They way you know they were on the road when they went down.

The ECU needs to meet the logic requirements for the specific code so getting codes at different mileage, engine cycles, drive times is not that strange. Clean the IAC Clean the MAF Make sure your gas cap is on tight and all vacuum lines are hooked up correctly.

Had a used engine that had a bad injector. Rough idle. Fuel Pressure?

When did you clear the codes? Some of the emissions folks check for the monitors and if you have just cleared the CEL you won't have enough miles on the car to be OK with the monitors.

As long as it has been maintained, there is no reason you can't get many more miles out of it. If you do have something big, it's still better than car payments IMHO. I have 312K on a 98 Impreza OBS.

Don't move to Texas! There is a reason there are no Subaru's and no Good Beer in TX.

You should be good to go. Drive it in tight circles and see if you have any torque bind in the transmission. Yes they last a long time and the Dealer did the essential maintenance already.

Did you disconnect the Black and Green Connectors? If not do so!

Front Hub: Before you remove the brake rotor, put a large screwdriver into the rotor through the brake caliper to lock it up. Break the axle nut loose and make sure you can put the axle in. There are so many in the yards, it's not worth messing with one that the axle if frozen in with rust. After all it is Colorado. Remove the steering rack nut and smack it, it will come out Remove the bottom nut on the ball joint and put a large hammer on the back side of the lower A-arm and hit the font until the ball joint pops up Then remove the upper strut bolts. Rear is just about the same, but remove the lower knuckle to support arms, long bolt first. Again if it's frozen move on.

Are you pulling the front half, back half or complete drive shaft? Yes, it's the best access to drop the exhaust. Sometime the exhaust connections are rusted up pretty tight so dropping the complete exhaust may be the best option. O2 Sensor/s disconnected, 6 manifold nuts, support nut aft of the trans and then the rubber supports and drop the complete thing. You have to get the exhaust down far enough to remove the tunnel heat shield so you can remove the mid bearing drive shaft bolts and unbolt the drive shaft.

Yes, go used. I've bought several 2.2 off of www.car-part.com and they were great. Under $600 including shipping to CO.

My bet would be on the fuel pump itself. The high current draw was most likely making the relay hot. A new relay with new contacts provided the needed voltage to the pump, so it ran well for a bit. If you have an amp meter check the current draw for the pump. I get used Subaru pumps out of the yard, over aftermarket junk.

If it is missing, the Check Engine Light should be on. What is the CEL Code? Does the problem go away once the car is warmed up? With a engine code, we will be able to give you better direction.

Still ran fine, no apparent damage but I have not pulled it apart yet. It only had about a quart of oil in it. (Kid that I got it from, yea I went over my oil change interval and when I was racing another car the Oil light came on) Expensive oil change for him. I pulled the engine yesterday. I don't remember seeing PZEV on the back but it was hit in the rear so the trunk lid may have been changed out when it was repaired.

Pulled a 2.5 SOHC today as the previous owner ran it low on oil = rod knock. What other years have the oval single port exhaust port? Thanks, Larry

If you have the front tires off the gound one will sping the other won't. Differential. If you have the TC pushed full back and it hits the starter gear, that's normal. I've never seen it lock up a trans. When you want to roll it all 4 on the ground, you will have to shift it into N.

Searches the self-serve yards. 65 yards across the US. No coverage in CO yet.

Could send you a good rust free OEM from Colorado! Take a picture of yours so I can make sure it's the same. There are some minor differences from year to year on how the hoses hook up. The basic line is the same.

Is the CEL on? If the Sensor is bad, you should get a CEL. Did the new sensor get properly clocked so it's setting flat? Did you read the resistance of new sensor before you installed it? Just some thoughts.

I have used www.car-part.com and purchased several used engines. By the time I figure in shipping they are in the 4-600 range. If I can get them at the UPAP they are $200. Rebuilts start at $1500 and go up from there. So you can see why I go used. Larry

Just replace the plastic part if its broken or just put the cable back in. Make sure you lube the hood latch.

Get your self some steel strap about an 1 1/2 wide drill two holes for the cable ends and run them past each other so the cable is shorter. Plenty of extra adjustment then. Bolt the two straps together. ------------O O---------------