lmdew

Getting the 2005 engine rebuilt! Thanks Shawn

Good you pull and pays in SLC. Not the best time of the year to search the yards. Wait for Spring. You can put one in from a Leg or Imp as well as long as you grab the rear diff so the gear ratios match.

I suspect the 2006 is VVT and the 2005 is not. The 2005 has the standard dual port y pipe and cats, the 2006 has the O2 sensors and cats under the engine. Should have done more research! Live and learn. Thanks Larry

I picked up a 2005 with a rod knock. Not bad but needs to be rebuilt. Found a 2006 with only 58K on it, It was not cheap but with only 58,000 miles I went for it. When I pulled the old motor and had it next to the new one the differences became clear. The Drivers side head has an extra sensor on it, the exhaust is different.... I think I'm leaning to selling or finding a car that needs the 2006 and getting the 2005 rebuilt. Thoughts?

Check the coolant level at the radiator when the car is cold. If it looks fine, bring the car to temp and then check the heater hoses in the engine compartment, are they both hot? If so you have coolant flow through the heat exchanger. Temp gauge in most subarus run at the 1/2 mark. A little below is no big deal. Thermostat may have been changed out. If you put a new one in, get a Subaru Thermostat. I've pulled a few of the heater boxes and don't remember a cover or slot where your hole is. I'd suspect broken plastic. Did someone pull the AC Evap core by chance?

Do they mean the camber was maxed out? The front struts top bolt is adjustable. The rear's do have camber bolt kits you can buy. I've never used them. I have put a smaller dia bolt on the top on the rear to adjust for Forester Struts on a Impreza. It works well and I've never had a problem. Make sure your Struts are not bent, sometimes it's hard to tell. Full adjustable struts are available but $$$. The top mounts move in and out.

Anyone know the difference in the knock sensors that plug into a harness right at the sensor and the ones with the built in lead? I know there is only one pin up at the top of the lead but two at the sensor. I'm thinking the other one is shielding. Thanks, Larry

Hit the yard and find a good used set of KYB struts. Many ears will bolt right up. With the years and the miles yes the struts are most likely shot. You can pull the boot up and see if you can see where the fluid has leaked out. Dead strut for sure.

Did you have the air filter box off to work from the top on the O2 Sensor connectors? Check the hoses.

I've used pop rivets before. Yes it's a pain if you have to take it off, but when is the last time you pulled a bumper?

I have the cam pulley you need. Larry

Pulled lots of 90 - 99 and a few 02 but the 05 looks like I'll need at least the fuel line release tool. Any other funny things I should watch for? Thanks

Get a rust free CO Car. \ Rust never ends. You have to cut out a much larger area than the rust and then do a great job repairing it. Not worth the cost for the older cars.

If you have a meter that will log the voltage you can back probe the sensor wires and record voltage. Or if you have a computer that will record voltage, that will tell you what the state of the system is.

The IAC may help. They have slight differences Auto to Manual. You can try adjusting it by marking the location and then loosen the 2 screws and adjust. The other problem you are going to have is if the engine did not have the EGR Valve. It will throw codes. Search the form, lots of good info on this.

Contact cleaner will not clean the electrical contacts of the Ign Switch. If you end up needing one, I have one with keys. You will have to drill the heads off the bolts to get the ignition switch assy out. Make sure you don't have an aftermarket security system as I've seen these cause many problems.

Bumper is held on with a 10mm bolt up front and a plastic clip in the middle. I always check the spare tire compartment and under the car for any possible damage. Nothing to worry about if it's clean. Yes a great subaru. My 98 OBS has 309K on it. Take care of the car and it will take care of you.

Not likely. NGK Plugs, Subaru or NGK plug wires, Subaru Coil. Daughters 99 Impreza just went through the same thing and it turned out to be the coil.

No problem, I've had 15 or more up there. Make sure they are strapped well, ratchet tie downs work well.

Son had another coil from his buddy's car. 4 pin connector. It started running on all 4 but then would not rev above 2500. Very Strange. I went up today, bolted on a use Subaru Coil I had, Problem Solved. Lessons learned, Only use Subaru Coils and NGK or Subaru Plug wires. Back on the road. Thanks Larry

Use the search function and you will find may post on this. - Car up very high on good jack Stands - Trans is very heavy a good jack is needed - Don't dent the pan jacking on it - Make sure the TC is fully seated - You may have to change the flex plate to match the TC - 2 different sizes - 12mm 6 point socket for the flex plate bolts - support the engine when the trans is off - check the condition of your trans mount, you may need a new one - pull the complete exhaust in one piece if you are in the rust belt. - Make sure the front and rear diff gear ratios are the same

Coil was corroded on 2 of the 4 terminals. Swapped the Coil and plug wires, new NGK copper core plugs and it's operating on all 4 cylinders again but still stumbles when you have 25-50% throttle in. No codes but the plugs are very rich. Going to check the TPS, MAF, O2 and Knock sensor.

Not worth the time and money. Buy a turbo car if you want one, It will be much cheaper.

I'm away from my garage, is the valve clearance set with the screw and jam nut on the 99 2.2. Thinking the valve may be slightly open. I did clean the system with seafoam and lucas fuel system cleaner. Could have cleaned the carbon off the valves? Larry

Push the TC back into the trans once the 4 bolts are out of the flex plate and then make sure it stays fully seated. I've found that when fully seated the TC will lightly rub the Starter teeth when you push it back and turn the TC. Easy way to ensure it's fully seated. Will likely need new TB Cover Seals, at least the bottom one.