lmdew

There is a painted code on the top of the rear diff. Anyone have the chart for the rear diff codes? Thanks, Larry Found this out there on the web: This information is from the 2008 Factory Service Manual and im not sure if it applies to any other model years. The two letter code is supposed to be on the rear differential in white paint. Rear Differential Code---Reduction gear ratio---LSD CD --- 4.444 --- Viscous CF --- 4.444 --- Viscous EW --- 3.900 --- Viscous HY --- 3.545 --- Torsen JE --- 4.111 --- Viscous T1 --- 3.900 --- None T2 --- 4.111 --- None TP --- 4.444 --- None XJ --- 4.111 --- None XU --- 3.272 --- Viscous XZ --- 3.083 --- Viscous Can anyone confirm the years the codes would apply to?

Auto

Rear Diff it is. Thanks for the suggestions.

Trans has no fluid it it so, I thought it was better to change it out. No telling how long it was run with no fluid or how much metal got into the trans.

I've got a 96 Legacy that the drive shaft went out on. It tore up the trans tail shaft pretty good. I have a good used trans but it's out of an Outback instead of the standard Legacy so the ratios are different (still have to check the #'s). I've changed lots of rear diffs, but never the front. How's the front to change? Procedure to change the front? Both Transmissions are out and on the ground.

You said the rear tires are on ramps, with the wheels both in contact with the ground/ramps you can NOT sping the drive shaft. Have to get one wheel off the ground/ramp and make sure the E Brake is off. Larry

You can list on Ebay and you will get a free one.

You front or rear U Joint? Front Auto you most likely have damage to the shifter and maybe the tail shaft housing. I got a 98 where just the shifter was bent. I got a 96 where it tore out the complete tail shaft housing and dumped all the fluid. First one got a shifter, trans mount and drive shaft. Second one needs all of the above and a new trans. Jack stands are pretty cheap, don't take the chance.

I have a 3' snapon 3/4 breaker bar with a 6 point socket. If the car is off the ground slide a large screw driver into the brake rotor cooling fins between the brake caliper. That locks the axle from turning. I get funny looks walking into the junk yard with it, but I always get them off.

I pin punch the nut and the outer tie rod for putting the nut back. I only back of the nut enought to loosen it. Then unscrew the tie rod. With a stiff wire, up against the nut, bend it over the end of the tie rod threaded rod end. This will be used to locate the nut, thus the length of the tie rod. Remove the nut Install the new boot Install the nut and use the wire to position it. Screw the rod into the outter tie rod end When close, positon the rod so that when you tighten up the nut the punch marks are still aligned. This get you very close.

Head to the yard and pull the boots from a 2000 or newer Subaru, they have the tougher plastic boots instead of the rubber. The UPAP yards charge me a few dollars for them.

Some common Oil leak sources: Breather Plate on the back of the block behind the Fly wheel or flex plate: Rear Cam Cover, Passenger side Cam and Crank Shaft Seals and Oil Pump Head Gaskets at the split line. Clean it up and then find the source. Some just live with it. As long as you check the oil and can live with the oil burning smell it will run for a long time.

Don't waste your time and money, the cable clutch is just fine. 96 or 97 is when they started putting them in. The shifter fork, Master and Slave should all bolt up. Double check to see if your trans has the mounting holes for the slave.

I believe they are sealed unites and if the bearing is falling out they are junk. Junk yard hub with bearing installed is the way I'd go. Larry

The rears are standard over most years. As long as you get the caliper and brackets. Lots of the WRX guys get rid of theiir stock brakes and sell them cheap! Best just to pull your wheels and then check the size if you want to stay with what you have.

Check is there is excess movement of the glass. It may have come off the tracks. I'd pull the door card and check it.

For the most part I've found them the same. They are in different spots depending on options.

Thanks

First picture is the bolt that holds the lifting lug and the bracket that all of the harness connections are on. Second picture should be the battery ground if it's not on the starter flange bracket. 3rd picture is the other ground you have hooked to the battery position. From memory but I think thats all correct.

Carb I think. It had the blue air cleaner on the top with the 3 wing nuts.

Bump

I took a look at a 88 GL Hatch today for a friend. She picked it up for her daughter. 145K. Runs great, but the PO had wired a switch from the battery to a toggle Switch inside the car and back to the coil. The Ignition switch is still used to start the car, but the toggle must be on to get spark. Once the car is started you can turn off the ignition switch and the engine will stay running until you turn off the toggle switch. There is a whole bunch of stock wiring between the battery and the coil that does not go anywhere. Any thoughts? Thanks, Larry

You have at least another 100K on your trans and more if you maintain it. Dont' waste your money. Most shops will not install used transmissiions. If you find one that will I bet its north of $500.

That's fair. When I buy them this way, it's a $1000 or less. By the time the new owner replaces or repairs the engine and all the other stuff that needs to make it a good Subaru they will have at least another $1000 into it + all of their time and then it's only worth $3000 - $3500.

Yep, aftermarket thermostat POS. Put in a Subaru Stat that I had and it's steady as can be. Thanks