lmdew

Good used one is the way to go IMHO.

Put the FWD Fuse in and see is anything changes. Have you drained the front diff and checked for metal? Couple of easy checks that may show something.

So what did you find?

Sure, I can ship it were you want. I get a pretty good FedEx discount and Flat rate UPSP is always good. Yes in Colorado Springs, CO Larry

You have to pay a price for all that salt air! I think the ignition locks wire is different. You might be able to make a newer one work. I could pull a set for you, but it might be awhile. Check the following for the cost and throw in a Kimo Tee + shipping. http://www.upullandpay.com/locations/coloradosprings/default

Radiator is hot all the way across, Fans are working. Water pump looks newer. When I get back in a couple of weeks, I'll check the Thermostat and make sure there is no air in the system. I'll pull the Tbelt covers and get a veiw of the Water pump in action if need be. Thanks

I have several Ignition with keys. You can pop the door cylinders had have the re keyed. I've done several myself, just pulling the key tabs out and switching them to make them work with the Key for the Ign. What year and model?

Runs great, but now the temp is rising. The HG have been done about 80K ago by the PO. The temp gauge runs a little below half. Intermittently, it will creep up to about 3/4 but if I rev the engine it comes right back down. I have not checked for exhaust gases in the coolant yet, but there is NO signs of HG failure in the overflow bottle. Sticky Thermostat? A little strange.

He pulled the trans out of the car. This is just so strange. I'm not sure I have the complete picture, but I did check the trans and it seems locked up. He said when he let the clutch out the engine would stall, even if he raised the RPM. Said the clutch felt fine and was releasing.

I'm out in CA and a co-worker had pulled his engine for some head work. He got the engine and new clutch back in and it runs fine but the transmission is locked up tight. We pulled the back top cover and verified the linkage was moving and put it in neutral. If you spin the input shaft or front diff stub axles everything moves fine. If you hold the stub axles and try to sping the input shaft it's locked up tight. 93 Legacy, 5 sp 153K on it. He said it went together fine and only had to pull it together when it got to the alignment pins. If he would have damage something on the engine installation, I would think it would have been the input shaft but it is not loose and it does turn if you let the stub shafts turn. Any thoughts? Very strange! Thanks, Larry

Yes, you do not need a special tool. You will see the locking tab washer on the inner side. It's very easy to bend it out so the v locking dent is out of the way. Then just un screw it. I've been able to save and reuse the washer. Sometimes the little tang, breaks off. If so get the new locking washer.

It's a pain, there's the spring clip for the lock and 2 10 mm nuts. The aft nut is the one that's tough to get. Roll down the window Pull the door panel Pull the switch out of the door so you can roll the window up and down while you work without the panel in the way Pull the plastic back at least half way Disconnect the control and lock rods and move them out of the way Remove the Lock Spring Clip Remove the two 10 mm nuts Pull the handle out.

ECU are pretty good. I'd start by checking all of the battery connections, grounds and fuses!

The Trans is fine, no torque bind. I replaced the Shifter and both the front and rear dirve shafts. I'm flushing the trans today. The FWD does work, when you put a good fuse in it. It needed the normal things: - Brakes front and rear - Rear Struts - Power Steering Pump - held on with 1 bolt bracket to engine It will be a nice Subaru again!

No the 2 problems are not related. Get the new code.

I picked up a 97 Outback Limited, Auto. The front drive shaft U-joint had failed. It bent the shift linkage so it would not start in Park, but did in neutral. PO thought the Trans was shot, but I think it just has a bad case of torque bind as the FWD fuse does not bring on the light and it looks like the rear tires are scrubbed pretty good. See update at the end:

You can check things with your volt meter. When there is no ground open switch you should see 5 volts coming out of the ecu. When you have a ground, switch closed, the voltage drops to 0. So if you have identified the correct wire coming out of the ecu, then you can run it out to the NPS and to ground. When I did this, I found a wire from the TCU harness that was not being used that went to the engine bay and tied to the NPS through the connectors.

Check www.brighterideas.com If you checked the voltage with no load your meter could lie to you!

I hit the yard and pull the newer plastic style of boot. It works great. Jack the car Center punch the outter Tie rod nut and tie rod for alignment. Unscrew the outter tie rod - you don't have to take it off just sping the shaft. Take a coat hanger or welding rod and put it up against the nut, which you just backed off a 1/4 turn and then bend the other end over the shaft. Now you know were to put the nut after the boot replacement. Pull the boot clamps, remove the old boot and clean things up as good as you can. Put new grease in the inner tie rod pivot Install the new boot Put the nut back on in the same position Screw the outter tie rod back on and then tighten the nut so the punch marks line back up. Install the outter boot clamp. That's it. Sometimes I drop the exhaust for better access to the inner boot area.

14.4 volts is good. Sounds like you covered the electrical items, but since its random and intermittent I'd still be looking for electrical problems. This did not happen before the engine work correct? Sure all of the vaccum lines are good?

What is the output voltage of the alt? I'd double check the Alternator connections and make sure all of the grounds have been hooked up. Larry

I finally had time to do the search, had to change the date range to all: Here's the thread: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=87100&highlight=neutral

Stay with cloth in TUS. The foam is what breaks down. If the covers are good, you can replace just the foam. Passenger and Drivers side foam can be switched so get a used passenger side and you are all set!

Yes, it will work. Or you could pull the part off your old trans and put it on the new one. No Linkage needed.

See my previous post. I gave you the link to the other thread that has your fix for the N Sw.