lmdew

I picked up a 98 Legacy Outback. It was hit in the drivers front. I replaced the radiator, got it running but now it will not shut off. If I turn the key off, it keeps on running. I have to disconnect the negative battery cable to get it to shutoff. When I hook the battery back up it like the ignition is already on even though the key is not on. It does have the Subaru Security system. I take it a relay is stuck on. Where's the relay? Thanks, Larry

Thanks, now all I have to find is a great deal on a Subaru with a bad engine!

I picked up a good 2003 SOHC 2.5 engine from the local yard. What will it drop into? I searched car-part.com for an engine and the only year that came up was 2003. Thanks, Larry

I have a like new Tank and filler neck if you need them. I"m in CO. Rust Free!

Check the drive shafts and differentials. I've had a couple of Subaru's where the axle popped out of the Diff a 1/2" or so and it feels just like the clutch is slipping. Look at both end of the half shafts and give them a good tug. If you don't see anything, put the brake on and let the clutch out, if one axle is turning, that's the problem.

Yes, all configurations will bolt up with the bracket and matching rotor.

93-99 will work. I have some cut out, but you will be able to fine them at the you pull and pay. Larry

Most likely the sensor since both the Speedo and Odometer went out. Look on the forward passenger side of the Trans, the sensor is over there.

Man, they have to work very hard to mess that up!

Try the fuse, if the FWD light does not come on, you have confirmed it's an electrical fault with the C-Duty. Many post on doing this with some great pictures.

Most likely you damaged the rear main seal. Most advise not to touch the stock seal as they almost never leak. Since you have changed the seal already, you need to confirm it's the source of the leak. If it is, remove it. Polish the crank shaft seal area with green and then gray scotchbright in a circular motion. Lube the new seal lip seal and carefully drive it into the block. Make sure the lip seal does not roll or get damaged.

Sounds like a vent problem. Check the hoses going from the tank to the filler.

I may have a harness for you. Give me a call. Larry

There are 4 bolts that go from the flex plate to the TC, you get to them through the access hole on the top right side of the block. A 6 point 12mm deep socket works well. Once it's disconnected, push the TC back, it will go back in about an 1/8". The Trans is heavy as can be! You can get it down with a floor jack but it's not the best. How many miles on the Car? If the mileage is high, the trans may be toast. Many threads on seating the TC, just use the search. You have to get the TC completely seated or you will damage the trans when you put it back in and start the car!

Check http://www.car-part.com for engine but the offer you have above sounds good.

I have a few of the Subaru Brains and connectors. $45 shipped.

Make sure the pan flange is flat. You may have pulled the metal up around the bolt holes using the gasket. If so you will have to flaten them back out or get a new pan.

Yep, little value. You could hang on to the pan, rear tailshaft and clutch, solenoids. They are only of value if someone needs them. I've kept some for my own use, but not to many are interested in purchasing them.

RTV Only, no gasket. Are you sure it isn't the Breather plate? That's the common leak on the back of the engine.

Check the drive axles! If you can put the car on jacks stands and put in drive and see if all wheels turn. I've had the rear drive half shafts pop out of the rear diff, if that is the case, the rear drive shaft is turning but the wheels won't. Not likely since you say the rear drive wheels are working in reverse. How are the fluids? Does the AT Temp Light come on at all? Someone might have pulled the bulb. It should come on after you start the car.

There should be a rubber donut there. Hit any junk yard and pull the steering column and you can pull it out.

I've had good luck bleeding the system, start by removing the old fluid in the master and then fill and bleed until clean fluid comes out the slave.

Check all the connections with the battery Disconnected! Just like you desktop computer, you always remove power before disconnecting and connecting components.

Start with the easy stuff, check the bulbs and sockets for corrosion. If it looks good, you may want to try putting in LED bulbs as they draw less current. If you have a good meter and you can check the amp draw at the fuse or tail lights that will tell you what's going on.

They are dust covers for the strut, to keep grit and grime off the chrome strut so the seal does not wear and leak.