lmdew

I do not have one but I could pull one from the yard in CO. Let me know if you want me to do that. I'm going Friday.

Not that I know of. If the ABS was not working the Light should be on. It just dumps brake pressure, if it's off all pressure is routed to the brakes.

I've been very happy with the Grip Force Clutch kits off Ebay as well. I've put 6 or more in and they have been very good. Have the flywheel ground as well. About 50/50 on pulling the engine or Transmission. If you have any engine work to do, t belt, seals... pull the engine. Seal the Breather plate on the back of the block while you have access to it. I like the aluminum plates but those are getting harder to find. The Subaru Stampped steel kit with screws are about $20.

I'll check when i get back to COS. $60 shipped, work for you? Larry

Work around the ABS ring, it does not come off without pulling the hub out. Make sure the E-brake cable is backed off then put the brakes together and adjust the shoes until they just touch the drum. There should be a little clearance. You can double check them once you have operated the brakes with the drums on by turning the adjuster through the back slot. Or, you could swap over to disk brakes. It takes the complete setup from a rear disk car along with the e-brake cables.

Make sure the 1" air tube to the IAC is on! If you sent dirty fuel to the injectors they may be clogged. After you cleared the codes, did the CEL come back on?

Yes, that's correct the non-pawl end of the spring just goes up against the case.

I just had to replace a knock sensor wiring as it was cut on the engine I got from the yard. I just pulled the 2 wires out of an old harness I had and then re-pined them in the connector. Easy enough to do and then you do not have splices. I doubt a knock sensor would take out an ECU. I might have a used one if you need one. It runs in the open loop until it warms up. Once warm, the ECU wants to control the fuel, ign and timing. I'd take care of the knock sensor, clear the codes and then see what comes back.

www.car-part.com is a good source as well for used parts from yards if you can't find one locally.

Put stabil in but run it as empty as you can. The new gas will seperate and water will be in the bottom. Or Sell the car and get another when you get back!

The racks are pretty rock solid. Make sure it's not the pump. I've had them side by side and I do believe they will swap. There is plenty of thread on the rod ends to adjust the toe. When you put it in, make sure you remove the little clamp on the lines and make sure you don' cross threat the hyd line fittings.

I'll have to dig a little to see if that is the one. Larry

I think I have one, if you can send a picture of yours. Larry Lmdew@hotmail.com

Right hand side of the Steering column. White Plug. I just put in a criuse system from a 98 OBS and it works great. Computer Brake and lower clutch switches vacumm unit under the hood Hose and fitting from the manifold Steering wheel control switch Cruise Switch. All the wiring is there, plug and Play

Any air bubbles in the overflow bottle? HG leaks often don't show up until the engine is under load for a bit.

Lower arms at the yard are like $20 and they come with all the busshings. Grab a good used one and bolt it up.

Just pull the TC and shaft and then drive the new seal in. You just have to make sure the TC is seated all the way when you put it back in. I always check to make sure if I push back on the TC it just hits the starter teeth and then I know it's fully seated. It will also pull forward about 1/8" when you bolt the TC up to the flex plate.

You want the timing mark on the crank gear rear tooth, it's a vertical line. Do NOT use the arrow on the front of the gear. You can often see the timing marks on the belt. It will have 3 lines across it, Cam, Crank, Cam marks. Otherwise the cams line up on the slot in the rear timing cover marks and the crank gear lines up with the dash mark on the oil pump cover. Larry Call if you want, I can explain it. 6 am to 8 pm MST 719-352-8468

Fill the oil so you don't trash the engine. It's not part of your not starting problem, which is timing most likely.

If your control arm bushing are shot, I'd start there. A damaged control arm will cause problems.

The Subaru Heat/AC Fans that I have seen are all direct drive. I have seen everything from leaves to mice in the Fan box. Drop the fan which is under the passenger side front counsel. Clean out the junk and inspet the fan. Year and Model would help.

Yes you will need the brake switch as well.

The interior sun shade will not slide back on the rear moon roof. The roof works and pulls the shade back but the it sticks on the way closed. Can I fix this without dropping the headliner? Thanks, Larry

A light and a Dark gray as far as I've seen. I'd call a dealer and ask the parts guys.

The alignment pins can be come pretty corroded and make it hard. Make sure you have removed the speed sensor on the right side or you will damage it when you pull it out. If you search this form, there are some good posts with pictures.