lmdew

Look at the part out. If you can pick up a good used exahust outside of the rust belt you will have a sound system. www.car-part.com may give you some leads as well.

If it leaked that much, I'd replace it with a new or good used one.

Tape will not pass emissions, they are smarter than that most of the time, as are most buyers. I always make sure the CEL comes on with the first turn of the key and then goes out after the car is started. Most emissions also plug into the OBDII which will show any fault codes. If codes are in the computer they will not pass emissions. Do it right or don't do it unless you are out in a area where there is no emissions check and you don't care if the CEL light is always on.

It would be an neat setup. I had the only dodge carvan with a 3.0 6 cylinder 5 speed for a long time. The 6 caravan never came with a 5 speed but the dodge sedan did. It was pretty much a direct bolt in with a few welds for the trans support and shifter. I'm thinking the Subaru would be easy. I need a good CHEAP 3.0 with a bad transmission to check it out.

Has anyone ever seen a 5 or 6 speed manual trans put into a 3.0 6 cylinder Outback? I've been wanting to pick up a 3.0 but I don't like manual transmissions much. I'm sure it would bolt up and the rear diffs could be swapped but I don't know how it would handle the extra torque and the ECU changes.

Looks like the O2 sensor

Once in a while, my 98 Impreza will not start on the first crank. If it turns over more then 4 times, I shut it off and then start it again. It always starts the second time.

CEL on? If so, she can get the codes pulled for free at most auto parts places.

Make sure the original engine and the replacement have the same EGR configuration, EGR or No EGR. Otherwise you will have the CEL on.

You can pull the covers and check all of the timing marks. If everything is lined up, you could do a compression check or better yet a leak down check. If you do the compression check on a cold engine by hand, you will not get full pressure, but if you had a bent valve it would show up. I like the 2.2 swaps as there are very few HG problems comparied to the 2.5 from 96-99

Great to hear another Subaru is back on the road. It's nice when you get someone that knows what they are doing and does great work.

Yes, I saw it was an old thread. I thought someone may have an update. Sounds like either they work or NOT and they are not worth fixing. Larry

So did anyone ever get there 6 disk to work. It's been years since the last post. I picke up a 2001 unit out of the yard, $15. I can hear the disk changer trying to change when I first turn the key on, but it will not load disk or eject them if they are in there.

Head Gaskets!

Are you sure the calipers are not leaking. The better halfs 98 Legacy had a leaking front caliper, but it would only leak when it was below freezing.

The typical leak it at the pump. Look down behind it on the block. Fluid can also flow down the front of the block right behind the timing covers. I've also seen leaks at the line connections of the rack, rare and at the steering shaft imput seal on the drivers side.

What year is the 2.2. If it's an interference engine, I would change the pump. A few hours and you are done. You can save the rest of the work for later. Most likely the rear seal is not leaking, but the air/oil seperator plate needs to be resealed.

What years will plug and play in a 2000 SOHC 2.5 with an Auto Trans? When I go to www.car-part.com only 2000 years are listed. Thanks, Larry

Used calipers and a good flush should take care of the brakes. Have the rotors turned or take a wire brush to them in a grinder and clean off all the old rust. New pads and you will be good to go.

Most of the Non EGR heads are not drilled for the port, so there is no chance of a leak there. With the exhaust on the car start it up and then plug the tail pipe with a rag over your hand. I there is a leak you will hear it. Larry

I'd say some one was into it already. The RTV around the seal should not be there. The seperator plate is leaking like crazy. If you do change the seal, take some green socthbright and polish the crank seal area and then clean it well. Lube the seal surface so it is not dry when you start it up.

Yes, the bottom OEM bolt should take the load and then the top camber bolt is just doing the adjustment. You could also file out the top strut bolt hole some to allow them to move in, but there is no accurate adjustment. File, check file some more.

If it's a 2.5 in an Outback, make sure the Head Gaskets have been taken care of. If it's the standard 2.2 Legacy it's a solid motor. If it's a 5sp, that's the best. If it's an auto, drive in tight turns and check for torque bind. Also watch to see if the AT Temp Light flashes 16 times after it's started. If it does, the transmission has problems. Clicking in tight turns, CV joints. Check the inner and outer boots of eht CV joints for tears. Temp gauge should be right at the 1/2 way mark. When was the timing belt done last? Great Cars, those Subarus!

shoot it with some PB Blaster when its cold and let it sit overnight. I use a tubing wrench to get them out, it works great.

No grease required. Did you clean things when you replaced the boots?