lmdew

I might be getting a 98 Outback, the PO ran it into a barrier which tore the lower A-arm right off the engine cross frame. I've never seen that. So cross frame, A-Arm, Steering Rack and Strut if needed. The Air Bags were also set off, which is not a big deal as I have everything from a 96 Legacy. My Questions are: Other then replacing the air bags what else needs to be done to get the SRS working again? The Passenger side Front Sensor got taken out by the bumper support arm. It still looks good, do the sensors need to be replace once they are tripped? Does the ECU need to be changed? Thanks

Yep the trans needs to be lifted and make sure the bottom cover plate is not catching on the transmission.

These are two seperate problems. The Flashing AT Temp light has nothing to do with it not starting! Did you cross the fuel lines?

Sure it's the Oil Temp and and not the AT Temp? AT Temp flashes 16 times after you start the car when there's a transmission fault.

Shawn is the way to go if you want Subaru Parts. I have used many PCI - Import Expert Kits and have been happy with them. I'm usually on the 95 2.2 so its not a big deal if something fails.

If the voltage was the same before and during your start attemp, the starter solenoid did not close (no load) which is why the starter did not turn over the motor. Either bad contacts or the control circuit, the small clip on wire to the starter is not getting voltage.

Your miltimeter will lie to you unless you are checking the circuit under load. I bet if you put your meter back on the starter positive terminal and then have someone try to start it the voltage will drop like a rock. If there is no drop at all, the contact is not closing in the starter. Check out some of the training at www.brighterideas.com

What happens when you apply the brakes?

Search seating the torque converter. When I pull and engine with an auto trans, I always push the TC back from the flex plate. I've found an easy way to see if it's seated all the way is if you push back and rotate it by hand it will just rub the starter teeth. When you install the engine the TC will pull forward about an 1/8". PS it's easier to start the TC Bolts with the engine still raised from the bottom and then do the fine torque with the engine installed from the top access hole.

Before, if you just doing the intake track, not much will get in the oil. If you are doing it into the oil, only run it at idle and for 30 minutes or less. You have diluted the oil, and should not run it under load or you may spin a bearing. That's my thoughts anyway.

Plug and play. You do have to swap over the flex plate for the TC. Plug the extra vacuum line.

Were the screws backed off? I've never seen one leak there, always at the breather plate.

95 is what I always try to get to drop into the failed 2.5 DOHC Outbacks. Great Swap.

How are your battery terminals? www.brighterideas.com Great electrical information. I suspect you have a bad connection, corrosion causing a voltage drop. Pretty common. PS there are no relays that I know of for the pump and I don't think the horn has one either. Check the voltage under load or with the TESLite Leads to determine if you have good system voltage at the connector.

Lots of good used ones out there. Whay year and engine?

I believe so, but I've had them ground flat many times and I've had no issues.

I could mail you a used set if you want $15.00

The mounts are different. Hit the yard a grab a drivers side. You can change the motors from side to side, but you may have a hard time getting the fan off the motor.

12 mm I don't have the pitch. They are about 2" long. I'd just hit the yard and pull another set.

Yes, just clean and grease the ball joint and put the good boot on. The top retaining ring is hard to get on. I safety wire it instead. I'd just clean the seal, lightly grease it and leave it as is. If its in good condition no reason to change it.

The rev Clutch packs do go out. I'd take it to a good trans shop and get them to check it out. Most do it for free. 5sp swap is a good way to go if you are going to keep it.

I'd post this over at NASIOC.com. More in line with that group and the mods you've done.

That's normal. I've had shops leave the hose off and the car will not run. It will start but that's about it. The best way to clean the IAC is to remove it and you can then clean the complete valve. I have run SeaFoam through and it works pretty good. I pull the hose, pour some seafoam in and then put the hose back on. Start it up, you will have to give it some throttle but it will run. You have to do this a couple of times.

Yes, I cut out a section from a 97 OBS that was in a wreck and I parted. I have both sides. About 6" high by 12" long.

I always anti-size the bolts when I put them in even in CO.