lmdew

Did you replace the dipstick O-rings? Did you use RTV or a gasket? Did you check the pan for dents or over tightened bolts and straighten them out. I have good pans if yo need one.

Most likely the car was hit at some point. Jack the car, remove the rear tires. Remove the mud flap bolts Remove the 10mm bolt inside the rear fender well towards the front corner of the cover Now you can pull the sides out and see what is up with the clips. They snap on a pin. If the pin is missing or the clip damaged they will stick out. If there is damage, you can see it inside the rear hatch, pull the L&R side carpet and pull the round covers for the bolts. Pull the bumper by removing the 2 bolts on each side and slide the complete bumper off. You may have to pull a few bolts, plastic pins on the bottom of the bumper to frame as well.

It's not that heavy, but it is large!

I have a complete rust free fuel tank with sending units and pumps. Your's for $80 + shipping. I can strap it to a pallet and ship it to you. If you have a business address or can pick it up at a freight dock that would help. My fuel smell was solved by the fuel filler neck. The one I removed only had a little surface rust, but the smell went away with the new neck. Larry CO 80919

I have a R Front that was flagged. I changed the sensor as the tip was broken. The new sensor still read open. The connector was worn, once I cleaned and tightened the connection it was good back to the ABS unit. I have spare rear's if you need one. $20 shipped.

Get the CEL Codes, even if the CEL is not on, you may have codes stored. Once you have them written down, clear the memory. Make sure you've taken care of the basic maintenance, clean battery terminals, cleand body and engine grounds...

Hit one of the You Pull and Pay yards. Complete Strut is about $25 and It will bolt right in. If you look, you will find KYB struts someone put on recently. $700 is crazy. Hope he did an alignment for that price.

Do a search for the swap. Legacy 77 has a great post with all the details. A little wiring is involved but it's not bad. I've done a couple. You have the parts listed. Larry

The ECU will correct based on the O2 sensor so I would not worrry about it.

Plastic tanks are the failure point. If it overheats they seem to fail faster.

www.car-part.com They are not that bad to change. You need to drop the headliner some for access to the bolts. The wiring harness needs to be pulled through the body as you remove the hatch. When you do that on the are you are going to install it on tie a string or wire to the harness so you can pull the new one back down.

Pull the valve and make sure it's working properly and not blocked. Check the intake to make sure it's not blocked. Remove the hard line head to ERG and clean it if needed and check the hole into the head. The Knock Sensor will make it run poor, so fix that one first.

I have a spare Crank shaft gear and Balancer if you need them. Larry

The clock springs are a little different but the steering wheels interchange. I have a good steering wheel from a 98 Outback that will bolt right up. Larry

If you need a good muffler I have a few. Shipped from CO so that will be a bit. Are you running 5w=30w? Make sure you do not have a FRAM filter as well. New Oil change and some operating time will quite down the lifters if that all it is. Larry

The easy way to do it is to replace the hub bearing and all. Get a good used on and bolt it in.

That's quite a buildup. I'd run some seafoam once you get it back together. I'd just go used on the injector.

yes, the connectors are a clearish white. You most likely need the harness as well. Shoot me an email and i'll send you a picture of the unit and harness. Lmdew@hotmail.com

What took you to the coolant temp sensor? Nice fix and thanks for the info.

I most likely have the unit for you $45 shipped. No fobs. Check for the connectors, if they are not there, the harness is also needed.

Did you have the noise with the old half shafts? Aftermarket half shafts have been a problem. Larry

Well, I found out why the Subaru had a salvage title already, it was hit in the front passenger side at some point, years ago from what I can see, and the sheet metal above the frame was replaced. A nice job, as I did not notice it at first. The SRS Sensor was on by only one nut, I bet the added shock from it not being properly attached set off the airbags this time.

Did you check for voltage at the fan plug? Test it with the fan hooked up if possible by back probing the plug. See http://www.brighterideas.com for some great electrical troubleshooting training videos.

So, I pulled the system out of the 96 today, the only thing in there is the computer, driver and passenger air bags and the wiring. So, if this system goes off, I guess the computer needs to be replaced. The 98 has sensors front and back and all the associated wiring. I guess it would be better to stay with the 98 and get a new sensor and the air bags. Thoughts? Thanks, Larry

Most likely not related to the engine swap. Check that you have the brake booster vacumm hose installed correctly, there is a check valve in the hose. Then I'd move to a good inspection of the brake calipers and wheel hubs. Strange that the rest of the time braking is good with a good pedal. The fact that the brakes come back after 1 pump indicates the brake master is good. Under normal braking is it pulling one way or the other?