lmdew

I'd say some one was into it already. The RTV around the seal should not be there. The seperator plate is leaking like crazy. If you do change the seal, take some green socthbright and polish the crank seal area and then clean it well. Lube the seal surface so it is not dry when you start it up.

Yes, the bottom OEM bolt should take the load and then the top camber bolt is just doing the adjustment. You could also file out the top strut bolt hole some to allow them to move in, but there is no accurate adjustment. File, check file some more.

If it's a 2.5 in an Outback, make sure the Head Gaskets have been taken care of. If it's the standard 2.2 Legacy it's a solid motor. If it's a 5sp, that's the best. If it's an auto, drive in tight turns and check for torque bind. Also watch to see if the AT Temp Light flashes 16 times after it's started. If it does, the transmission has problems. Clicking in tight turns, CV joints. Check the inner and outer boots of eht CV joints for tears. Temp gauge should be right at the 1/2 way mark. When was the timing belt done last? Great Cars, those Subarus!

shoot it with some PB Blaster when its cold and let it sit overnight. I use a tubing wrench to get them out, it works great.

No grease required. Did you clean things when you replaced the boots?

Entire Engine harness. Again, most 93 2.2 do not have a ERG. If your 2.5 does, you will have CEL lights on all the time. Firewall to engine.

They can be a pain. Sometimes I drop the exhaust, it makes a big difference. I center punch the nut and rod end and then once the rod end is off, I take a coat hangar and put it up to the nut. Then bend it 90 degrees over the end of the rod. Very easy then to get the nut back to the correct setting.

My 98 Outback had a front Drivers side caliper that would only leak when it very cold. It was in WI for a winter, leaked just a bit. 3 years later, it was parked up in Denver at the airport when it was -3 and it leaked like a sive. Just replaced the caliper last night.

They have a clear coat. If you start polishing it will be a long task. You could strip the clear coat and then have them power coated.

I don't know which one you have: Aluminum is best, IMHO as it expands as the same rate as the engine. Steel and Plastic are both going to move at slightly different rates to the engine block. All 3 are OK if they are pulled, cleaned and resealed with quality RTV and the screws put in will lock-tight.

If you leave the E-Brake off does it still do it when its cold? There is a little switch on the E-brake that turns on the brake light also. It could be sticking some.

Just put a 2x4 or some other block of wood under the trans pan at the front corner of the pan. It will jack right up without damaging the pan. The engine studs are great guide pins as you go together. The TC will rub against the starter gear if it's all the way seated and should pull forward about an 1/8 when you bolt it to the flex plate. It's easier to start all of the TC bolts from the bottom while the engine and trans are bolted together and still lifted up.

I have several used sets. Unless they have been overheated, I have never seen them fail. $40 shipped.

Check out www.brighterideas.com Dan's training videos highlight how poor a resistance check is and how your voltmeter can lie to you.

Sounds like the reverse is gone in the trans. I've seen this before. Make sure the pan is not dented in restricting fluid to the pump.

Thanks, I'm getting the complete car. The body is great, but with 352K on it the engine is tired.

Anyone know for sure is you can put 15" aluminum wheels on a 2000 Legacy Outback. I can get the 16" wheels and tires off of it before it's traded in, but I only have 15" replacements. Tire Rack only 16" and larger.

Lots of PB Blaster and time. Many times they are rusted into the bushings so tight, you have to drive it out with the BFH and then get a new or used bolt.

That area should drain. If you don't flush out the front fender wells, they will clog with dirt, leaves.... When its warm, spray lots of water into the area until it runs clear. Then Every month flush it out!

I had 7.2 liter worth of Subaru engines in the OBS today. I guess it doesn't mean much since the 2 2.5 DOHC engines were cores. Sure do like my OBS, it's a hauler!

Lot's of times it's a bad connection at the bulb if the flasher is going very fast and the bulb is dim.

Also want to blow the water out of the Knock Sensor area.

I've put many of them on, no problems. On used engines that I've pulled, I've seen only one failure and I have no idea how long it was on. I've seen many failures of the Black stock Subaru idlers, as they are often ignored and run to failure.

A used engine is good if you need it. The problem with selling a used engine is you can't give a warrantee. Most of the Yards say 30 or 60 days. They self serve yards are getting 2-300 for an engine. If you put any money into it and try to sell it, you will be behind the curve. Cores or $100 each.