lmdew

If the ALT hooked up and charging properly? I did a 98 once and had the same indications. I'd started it withoug the belt on the ALT and a low battery caused the faults.

What do you need for the complete car?

Hit the local yard and get a used one. If you do not have a good yard close by, check www.car-parts.com Much better than getting a new one.

It's most likely the Oil separator plate that is leaking. Don't change the main seal unless it is truly bad as the new one may leak. Plan on spending 2 days as you will want to get the flywheel ground. If the engine is due for the Timing belt, pull the engine and do it all at once. It sounds like you can see the oil coming down the enegine, if so were is it coming from. If you do the T=belt, do the cam and crank seals and the oil pump oring and lock-tite the oil pump backing plate seals. Grip-force on Ebay has great clutch kits. I've purchased many from them and have always been happy. Larry

Most likely it's just cut right under the dash. The wire would be running out the drivers side firewall, in a large wire bundle about 1.5" in dia. It runs along the bottom of the top frame rail under the drivers side fender.. Pull the lower kick pannel and I'm sure you will find the wire cut under the dash.

I called the Import Experts today, the PCI Kits off Ebay that I have been very happy with. They were good enough to give me the old Style tensioner with the correct belt. $108+shipping for the belt and all the idlers and tensioner pulley.

Just wanted to confirm my thoughts before I order parts. I picked up a 99 OBS with the 2.2 motor. I believe this will have the new style TB Tensioner on it, but I will be able to change the tensioner and backing block to the old style tensioner and then use the 95-98 Timing belt Kit. Sound right? I'm out of town so I can not open it up to check. Thanks Larry

I picked up a 98 Forester and have been working on it. I did the front brakes today and noticed the struts were on backwards. I don't know what they were thinking, but I'll get them switched around.

try www.car-part.com and grab a good used one.

No tightening was done, as there is none to do on the input shaft. I just reseated the seal.

I drove the seal back down and the leak stopped. It's a pain, but if you take a 3/4" wrench and go over top the seal and up against the axle shaft you can push it back down. I'm going to check the local bearing shop to see if they stock the seal. I also checked a 2001 Forester and the rack has a rubber boot over the input shaft so the seal must be inside now.

The Daughters 98 Outback was loosing steering fluid. The Pump was not the cause, but the Input shaft seal had worked it self out of it's seat and was up about a 1/16". I drove it back down the best I could without removing parts. Has anyone replaced this seal? Thanks, Larry

Also look at the steering box input shaft seal and make sure it's not out of the seat and leaking.

At $20 the shift fork boot is a little pricy. I did not want to run to the dealer so I tried the two small bellows from a CV Joint boot. It worked great. It was a good fit over the fork and it wrapped tight around the trans hole. Larry

If you have a known good sensor, then you will have to check the signal at the ECU. Did you wash the engine lately? Water in the plugs could also cause this problem. The cam sensor is easy to change, and many should be in the yard. I'd grab a few and try them.

Look at the part out. If you can pick up a good used exahust outside of the rust belt you will have a sound system. www.car-part.com may give you some leads as well.

If it leaked that much, I'd replace it with a new or good used one.

Tape will not pass emissions, they are smarter than that most of the time, as are most buyers. I always make sure the CEL comes on with the first turn of the key and then goes out after the car is started. Most emissions also plug into the OBDII which will show any fault codes. If codes are in the computer they will not pass emissions. Do it right or don't do it unless you are out in a area where there is no emissions check and you don't care if the CEL light is always on.

It would be an neat setup. I had the only dodge carvan with a 3.0 6 cylinder 5 speed for a long time. The 6 caravan never came with a 5 speed but the dodge sedan did. It was pretty much a direct bolt in with a few welds for the trans support and shifter. I'm thinking the Subaru would be easy. I need a good CHEAP 3.0 with a bad transmission to check it out.

Has anyone ever seen a 5 or 6 speed manual trans put into a 3.0 6 cylinder Outback? I've been wanting to pick up a 3.0 but I don't like manual transmissions much. I'm sure it would bolt up and the rear diffs could be swapped but I don't know how it would handle the extra torque and the ECU changes.

Looks like the O2 sensor

Once in a while, my 98 Impreza will not start on the first crank. If it turns over more then 4 times, I shut it off and then start it again. It always starts the second time.

CEL on? If so, she can get the codes pulled for free at most auto parts places.

Make sure the original engine and the replacement have the same EGR configuration, EGR or No EGR. Otherwise you will have the CEL on.

You can pull the covers and check all of the timing marks. If everything is lined up, you could do a compression check or better yet a leak down check. If you do the compression check on a cold engine by hand, you will not get full pressure, but if you had a bent valve it would show up. I like the 2.2 swaps as there are very few HG problems comparied to the 2.5 from 96-99