lmdew

Check the main engine harness connectors and make sure they are moisture free, clean and tight. The fuel pump is trying to keep pressure in the system and the #3 injector is being powered and porting pressure. The injector is most likely good, you have an electrical issue. You can verify this by swapping the injector plug to the back injector, if that one starts acting up it's electrical!

The two bottom bolts on the strut should have been just bolts, straight through. There is NO camber adjustment on the rear struts, unless you put the after-market strut bolts in. The only adjustment on the rear is the toe, which is done at the inner tie rod bolts. You could not have changed a thing. The next time you change a strut, but the brake line bracket and slip the brake line out. That way you will not have to bleed the brakes. Just cut a slot in the end and bend it opena and then bend it back. Some like to cut a slot top and bottom so there is no bending. Larry

I've always installed the front from the 95, but also leave the rear in place. No Cels. You just need to grab the canister and bracket. The holes are all there.

I'd take the old on to a radiator shop and have them match it. Prices are very competive on radiators, so the price should be close. What is the Month your car was made? I'd also take the VIN # along. Most of them I've delt with are all the same, there are some differences on some on how the fans mount.

Anything is possible given enough time and Money. I believe there are some ECU wiring differences that will need to be taken care of. Check www.car-part.com and see if they have a good engine for you. Less time and may be less money. Larry

Gauges are best, but if you don't have them and want to do a quick check of the clutch, disconnect the pressure switch connector and jump the pins in the plug. You can do the same thing at the AC relays. Don't let it operate this way for more than a few seconds. You'll still need gauges to go further, but at least you know where the problem is.

The pump often leaks right at the pump and then runs down the front of the engine and blows back over everything. Take it to a car wash and clean the bottom as much as you can. You can clean by the pump, but don't clean the alt. Fill the pump with Dextron III trans fluid to the correct level and then check for leaks. The lines do have fittings at the sub frame just behind the engine but they don't leak there very often. I do have a rack and pump I just pulled off a 97 which will bolt right up.

Go to Ace and get a lawn sprayer and some air QD's. If you can get a spare MC Cap, drill a hole in it for the QD. Cheap Motive Flow bleeder.

If you have the external filter change it. Don't drop the pan, as there is only a screen filter in the transmission and it does not have to be changed. Drain the fluid Fill the transmission pull the transmission line off the radiator and put a hose on both to send them into a gallon jug. Start the car, the old fluid will pump out, it will be dark red. Stop when it's about 2 liters and refil the transmission. Keep doing this until the fluid being pumped out is clean as can be. Put the radiator trans hose back on and run the car and check the fluid level. This change does not shock the system like some of the power flushes do.

Drivers side front sensor gone, wires cut. So much for that.

Thanks, there are slight creases in both fenders, nothing I would thnk would have set off the airbag. The airbag is there, I now that doesn't mean much on a 93. Larry

I hooked pin 1 to ground and the light flashes 3 time fast continously. I searched the USMB but did not come up with a code. I tried to clear it, but it would not clear. Thanks, Larry

codes still are not clearing. I had the battery off or 28 hours while I did the timing belt. As so as I started it up the Power Light flashed 16 times? Computer? Thanks

Use a stiff wire wheel on a 4" grinder, it will clean off all the rust without damaging the rotors. Very good prices on the other machine work.

The power light is still blinking 16 times when the car is started. I'm doing the timing belt today. I picked up the speed sensor and TPS from the yard yesterday. I hope the long battery disconnect clears all codes.

They had the wrong filter in the pan. The transmission shop I picked up the new filter from thought it was for a Nissan. I put the correct one in and it works. I have some funny shifting, it hunts between 3 & Drive. I pulled the battery to clear the codes I'll see if the same ones come back. Thanks for the help.

May be the clutch, or the trans. Are you sure the front and rear diff ratios are the same? Trans properly serviced? Clutch is properly releasing (I take it you have the HYD clutch not the cable)? The Throwout bearing retaining clips were in good condition and installed? Just some thoughts.

I have a trans and rear diff out of a 96 Legacy with 95k on it in the standby position. If I don't see anything wrong when I drop the pan, then the new trans and diff is going in. I hope its an easy fix, I do hate changing those heavy autos.

I think I have the TPS and might have a speed sensor. I think I'm still going to drop the pan and take a look. This all started when he changed the filter. I'm thinking disconnected fluid transfer tube or damaged wiring. I hope to drop it Wed. Thanks, Larry

He was a non Subaru fellow, and with the mileage on the Impreza I'm sure he just thought it was good maintenance. Codes from the Trans Computer: 31 - Throttle Sensor 33 - Vehicle Speed Sensor 2 I have not had time to drop the pan, but the trans and front diff fulids look cleand and are at the proper leves.

I haven't checked yet, but If that was the case I'd think it wouldn't move at all. Monday, I'll get deeper into it. Thanks

I picked up a 93 Impreza 1.8 Auto Trans. It runs well, but will not move in fwd gears and only a very little bit in Reverse. The PO said it ran shifted well before he changed the transmission filter and fluid. The Power light is blinking 16 times when you start it. How do I pull the transmission codes? I did try disconnecting both transmission plugs in the engine compartment, this produced no change. I have not dropped the pan yet, but I'm thinking a hyd tube or wiring may have been damaged when he did the filter. 213K AWD Thanks, Larry

Some details would help. Auto or Manual Trans? There is not much to mess up on an Manual Trans, drain and fill it with gear lube, it should be full on the stick. Auto, has Dextron III in the transmission and gear lube in the Differential. Two different fluids, both should be at the proper level. Is the smoke coming from the exhaust or leaks under the car?

Yes, it should be plug and play, just make sure you get all the parts. Hit the junk yard and pull all.

Nope, shift fine. There is a little buzz but that was there before.