lmdew

www.car-part.com is a great source of info.

1990 to 2005 used one in good condition. Stay away from the 2.5 DOHC. Lots of good rust free ones in CO. Lot's of used cars are way overpriced now. Have to watch and be ready to jump on good ones.

ebay has some good pictures. Subaru pumps are usually smaller in Dia than aftermarket and goldish in color.

Problem is most folks don't load the circuit. They unplug the connector... read voltage and buy the part thinking it's failed. $80 may be a bit but it's cheaper than a lot of parts. If it saves you one time, most likely you've paid for it.

Great info. Get the schematic, find the 3 elements of a circuit - Load, Ground and Power. Then you are ready to troubleshoot the system. If you are not checking the circuit with the load hooked up, you meter can lie to you. Loadpro fixes that. Find Opens, Shorts and High resistance in minutes.

I've had intermittent fuel pumps caused by the fuel pump relay. It's high up under the dash on the drivers side. Larry

Just turn on the key. The pump will come on for a few seconds.

In the wagon it's just behind the rear seat. In the Sedan's it's under the rear seat. You'll see an oval panel with 4 screws in it. Pull the panel and you will see another oval panel with many 8mm nuts and the fuel hoses and electrical connector. Spray the fuel hoses with WD-40 or some other lube. Carefully remove the hoses, electrical connector and then the 8mm nuts. Pull the panel and pump. Get a Subaru pump. Even a used one is better than aftermarket.

www.car-part.com Get the exhaust from a rust free state.

Could do oil analysis and see what's in the oil. Hard to tell what's circulated in the oil.

I believe the IAC are a little different from Auto to Manual Transmission. Is it a match to you swap?

Just put a large straight slot screwdriver into the brake rotor and it will lock up the hub to break the nut. I usually stick them right down through the brake caliper.

Pull a used Subaru Halfshaft from the yard. Clean, grease and reboot if needed. Heck, just to see if the symptoms go away, install as is. Rebuild down the road if necessary. I take my 3/4" 4' long snapon ratchet with 6 point socket to the yard. No nut has ever beaten that tool. If the outter spline does not move freely once the nut is off move on to another Subaru. Make sure when you put it in the innner rollpin is propperly aligned. If it's 180 out, you can start it but it will jam before you get it all the way in and you will be hard to get it back out!

Sounds like a good Subaru and a good seller to work with. Go for it!

I've been working with atp's SpotLight solution for 20+ years in commercial aviaiton. https://www.atp.com/spotlight/ When teaching SpotLight to Mechanics I tell them Troubleshooting is Troubleshooting, aircraft, car, boat, motorcycle. It has to be a process. SpotLight is a knowledge base which captures and keeps tribal knowledge forever, making it easy to find the Solution. Same thing the USMB does but larger and easier to use. USMB works for us. I've searched for solutions and I've found them. One was even submitted by Lmdew years earlier I had forgotten the details but the USMB did not. Larry

I have sets of Red Injectors. Pay shipping and a Donation to the USMB and they are yours. Larry

|P1101 SUBARU code description Neutral Position Switch Circuit High Input (A/T) Neutral Position Switch Circuit Malfunction (M/T) Yes it could be causing your idle issues. I've done a few Auto Manual Swaps and the ECU needs to have a good signal. You said this all started after the filter change. Did you do anything else? How long was it running well?

They are pretty easy to rebuild yourself. As far as the outter threads, I've taken several that were mushroomed from beating them out and put a taper on the end at a grinding wheel. They stick out about a 1/4". As long as most of the notch is still there to stake the nut into you are OK.

Security system reset button. Turn on the key and press and hold the button until the system resets if the alarm went off. If you want to test it. Unhook the battery. Wait a few minutes and then hook the battery back up. The alarm will go off. Blinking light, horn if it has on....

Should be fine. Might need the TCU from the car as well. You can search the Trans# that is on the front of the bellhousing. Transmission ID Chart_Public.pdf Subaru Transmission Chart.pdf

I've removed the inner CV Joint, to reboot an outter that would not come out. A pain to try to clean out the old grease out of the outter, but you can do the best you can and then add new grease and a new boot to the outter. The inner can be completely cleaned and regreased and a new boot installed and then put it back on the trans. Got to do what you got to do sometimes.

I've had them rust so tight I had to change the knuckle. Put a large drift on the end of the shaft. Keep the nut loose but on to protect the treads. After soaking in PB Blaster of some other oil give it a good one. Pin punch to mark the top alignment bolt. Then remove it and loosen the bottom bolt. It will allow you to tilt the knuckel enought to remove the inner CV. You can then get the otter joint out of the hub.

Going back to a Subaru Part was a good choice. Replacing the same part numerous times is not.

They do have the testers to see if there is combustion gas in the coolant. It's not 100% but another indication. Sometime HG only leak under heavy load when hot. Watch the temp gauge. Subaru's most often sit just below half way. They come up to temp pretty quick and then stay there. Same position all the time. If the temp gauge is going above normal you have a problem.

Yes the temp sensor is on the crossover pipe on the top of the block. It needs a full system to read correctly. Where did the fluid go? That's the important part.