lmdew

My 3/4" drive Snapon rachet about 4' long never fails me. I twisted off so many 1/2" breaker bars it wasn't funny.

I picked up a 98 Impreza and the shift bushings were gone on the aft attach point. I went to the Subaru Dealer, they did not have the $18 each bushings in stock, but did have the complete u-joint for $65. This car had the step bolt with bushings not the seperate steel bushing with a straight bolt and plastic bushings. I got it but then I stopped at Ace Hardware on the way home. I picked up: 2) bronze bushings with a top lip ID 3/8", OD 1/2", 1" long 1) Step Bolt 3/8" x 2" long and a lock nut Steps to replace the worn componets. Jack and support the car on jack stands Remove the exhaust heat sheild attached to the transmission rear support Remove the rear trans support, this gives you more access to work Remove the 12mm nut from the lower shift linkage support arm Remove the 12mm nut and bolt from the shift linkage arm You know know if you have the stepped bolt linkage or the one with the additional steel bushing. If you want to, you can remove the u-joint by driving out the two roll pins at the front of the u-joint, I did but the shift u-joint to trans input shaft was so rusted (not a CO Car that's for sure) I could not get it off. Using a pipe cutter, cut one of the bronze shift linkage bushings down to 1/2 Long and debur Remove any of the old Plastic bushings and then insert the new bushings Attach the linkage using the new 3/8 stepped bolt and lock nut. I also put locktite on the nut as there was only about 1/4 of threads showing. Put it all back together. I'm sure this will be a life time fix for way less than the Subaru Plastic bushings. It shifts great.

search www.car-part.com for your parts. If the other years come up as well then there is an interchange.

Get a good hub from the yard and then get someone to put it on for you. PB Blaster for a few weeks before so they can get the bolts out. The long one on the bottom can be tough. Drive to CO Springs and buy me a beer and I'll do it :>)

$10 at the local you pull and pay. Then stop at the car wash and hang it up and hit it with the pressure washer. It will be like new! Let it dry completely befor you put it in.

I have a 99 2.5 SOHC from a forster with 140K on it. $400 + shipping from CO and its yours. I've done lots of swaps 96-98 Outbacks using the 2.2 from a 95 it swaps right in. On the Trans Starter stud missing, you can put in a heli coil in the trans hole and then bolt the starter up. Do this while the engine is out. How many plugs are on your engine to firewall harness? Two?

Do the adjustment at the brakes first. If you still need to adjust the cable, you can do it at the brake lever. If you still need to replace the cable it is easy, a clamp under the brake lever, a couple of more on the way to the brakes and then R&R at the brake backing plate. I doubt you need a new cable, unless its rusted tight.

Sounds like it may have jumped timing a tooth.

Start with a fluid flush. Search here and you will see the different ways to do it. Sounds like one of the valves is sticky.

You can also put a 1/2" breaker bar on the socket and rest the handle down right in fron of the battery on top of the frame rail. Make sure it's firm against the rail and the socket is on well. Hit the starter for a second or two, and the bolt will break free. Note: You can have nasty things happen if the breaker bar is on the wrong side of the car.

Jack one side of the car both front and back wheels off the ground. Put a mark/tape at 12 oclock and a mark on the fenders. Then rotate the tires 10 revs, they should both still line up with the marks. If they are slightly off, go to the other tire and rotate them again after line up the marks. Some slight slip in the viscous coupler can account for this slight change. If you have two different ratios, the marks will be way off. You could also pull the rear section of the drive shaft and see if the wine goes away.

The wind noise is a common issue on this car. The engine is solid. I would not over pay, there are always other cars out there. Did you get a car fax history? Look at Edmunds True Market Value and off them the middle of the road price. You have time? They want to sell.

make sure the grounds for the car are good, clean and tight.

I don't think they are. I was talking to a subaru mechanic a few weeks ago and he has mocked up intake adapters to make the switch. I have a 99 2.5 SOHC engine I pulled out of the yard. It has 140K on it. $350+shipping. You may fine one close by - www.car-part.com

2.2 swap, you can find a good 95 2.2 with EGR for under $500. www.car-part.com

Engine bay Passenger side strut tower.

It would help to know what Subie you have. A simple check for low freon is to put the AC on and then pull the pressure switch plug off the dryer and jump the pins. If the clutch kicks in, you are low on pressure. DO NOT Run it for more than a few seconds this way. Look for traces of oil around the fittings and on the front of the radiator to check for leaks.

Thanks

I was looking for a gas leak due to gas smell in the car the other day and I remove the panels under the cargo floor of the wagon. Both side Sending/Pump Covers were as rusted as can be. There was no leak, but I did the Krol/PB Blaster Treatment. I hope I never have to pull them, I doubt the nuts will come off without the studs breaking. This was a MI car. If I was in the Rust Belt, I'd pull the covers and clean and treat them.

Look up under the driver side dash kick panel. If you see a black box about 4"x5"x1" usually tied up with zip strips that's the remote lock box. You can buy an aftermarket remote to work with it.

I've never seen a rear dif with a front seal leak. It's leaking where the drive shaft bolts up. I have pulled the splined front adapter out of other rear diffs but I don't remember if the seal was easy to get at or not. Anyone know how to change out the seal? I think I can do it with the rear dif in the car and just drop the drive shaft. Thanks

No difference that I have noticed. The 2000 and newer have a larger jam nut but I still think the rod dia is the same.

Unless you are check electrical faults under load, your multimeter can lie to you. Check out the TesLite Leds. www.brighterideas.com. They allow you to load a circut. Dan also has some good training videos on his web site. Larry

Did you move the car? The strut may be all the way extended causing the camber. The rear hubs do not have camber adjustment, just straight bolts through and they are the same. The bottom link rod bolt is in correctly I take it.

Yes, the 95 2.2 with EGR will plug and play. How many miles are on the CCR engine? Have you called CCR to let them know what is going on?