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Everything posted by lmdew
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Try pressure bleeding the brakes, you can move a quart or two through in no time. Home made version: http://faculty.ccp.edu/faculty/dreed/Campingart/jettatech/bleeder/index.htm Note the small yellow caps of the 96-99 Subaru's do not seal very well, so I use the one from the Motive Flow Brake bleeding system. Search Power Brake Bleeder and looks for JEGS.
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I've had a couple of 98 Subaru Outbacks, a friends sedan and a wagon that the blinkers were all working but blinked very fast. The symptom and what led to the root cause was the front blinkers were very dim. I pulled the bulb and bent up the contacts, + and ground. The bulb is not a tight fit in these sockets, which may contribute to the problem. Once the bulb had good contact the blinker was back to normal brightness and the blinker speed was normal.
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The trans is most likely toast. A properly seated torque converter will rub up against the starter gear when you push it back and rotate it. When you install the trans, it will bolt up to the engine and the trans will still be about an 1/8" back, away from the flex plate. Install the bolts and pull the TQ forward to the flex plate. You won't hurt the engine by trying it, but you will contaminate the radiator cooling tank. Make sure you flush it out.
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I can't find the FWD Fuse holder, its not on the passenger side like the older Legacy's. Did they do away with this option for the Auto Transmissions on the 2000? I put a transmission in a while back for a fellow and it makes a harsh popping sound when you go from rev to Drive, it sounds like it coming from the rear diff. The gear ratios are the same, the drive shaft U-joints look good. 330,000 miles on the car. I wanted to try putting it in FWD to eliminate the rear drive shaft and diff.
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Just get a used one, they bend and you will never get it back to original. When you bolt the new one up, make sure you do NOT cross thread the 2 rear bolts, they are fine thread and are easy to cross. Real easy, two bolts in the back, and the pivot bolt up front along with the sway bar bolt and the ball joint. Huge interchange 90 - 99 at least.
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Good CO rust free mufflers are cheap. Check the You Pull and Pay in Colorado Springs for the price. Add about $35 for shipping. Instead of loosening the bolts, put good 6 point sockets on the bolts and tighten them until they snap and the replace them and the gasket. Apply anti-size to them and you will be good the next time.
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If you have a business address to ship to or could pick it up at the dock, I' would think shipping would be about $200. I could strip it down as far as you want to make it lighter or ship it complete. I have not tested this engine, but it came out of a 99 Forster that was hit broad side hard. Compression seems good and the plugs and oil look good. $350 + shipping. Larry
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The engine will bolt up to the trans. You will have to helicoil the lower starter bolt hole as one took a bolt and your's most likely has a stud, or the other way around. If it is the same intake manifold, you can swap them and the harness will go along with it. Is the EGR configuration the same? If not, I'd start looking for another engine.