lmdew

No just snagged the motor because for $200 you can't pass them up when you find a good one. I'll hang on to it until I find a Subaru that needs the SOHC engine.

I couldn't pass it up there was a 99 Forster that was hit hard in the side. 140K on the car and the engine checked out so I grabbed it. As I pulled it I noticed it had only 2 connectors on the engine harness so: Will a 96-99 2.5 DOHC manifold bolt up so I have the correct harness on the manifold? It does have the port in the head for the EGR so that should not be a problem. It's a dual port exhaust, it also had the oil filter cooler. It was nice of Subaru to put another engine to trans mounting bolt under the starter??? Thanks for you knowledge, Larry

I'd do a complete bleed and see what the results are. I failed master cylinder will show up for sure if you are manually bleeding the brakes.

Take the radio out and clear the codes and then see what comes back. The dash wiring uses a common ground for may of the components, including the engine computer. Once the codes are cleared you will have to run the car through several driving cycles to see what codes come back.

Sounds like a wheel bearing has gone out. Jack the wheels and grab the outside of the tires and try to move them back and forth. Even if they pass this check, the bearing may be bad. Spin the tire and listen for any roughness. Even if it passes this check the bearing may be bad. If the noise gets worse in a turn, L or R you have a bad bearing. Get a good used hub from a yard.

Well, first you have to pull the codes. Do a search for pulling the codes, but basically you need to find the single pin black connector up under the drivers dash RH side. It may be tapped to the wiring if it's never been pulled down. Pull the lower kick panel under the dash, it will make it much easier. Once you've found them connect them and turn the key on, you will get a flashing check engine light. If you don't have a manual, its time to get one as it will explain how to pull the codes. Let us know what you find.

Have someone push down on the hood the then pull the release lever. I you need to reach up to the cable at the lever and pull it down some as well. Then have the person open the hood.

Take a metal bar about 1/8" thick and 1" wide and round the corners, make it nice and smooth so you do not damage the cable. Run it inside the track, back to front. Many times the cable gets wedged down in the track. If you can get it pushed back up it will most likely work for you. The bad part is once this happens the only good and final fix is to replace the assy.

In the engine bay you have two large black plugs trans to firewall. One of them has two large black with white strip wires. Find them, disconnect the connector and then jump the contacts of these two wires. The car should start. If it does, the problem is on the transmission side. Barns - mice chewed wires.

Back to basics! Is the check engine light on? If so get the codes read out and let us know what they are. Since the crank shaft pulley came off, there may have been some damage to the crank sensor or the key that keeps the gear aligned on the shaft. Also make sure the pulley bolt is to 125 ft lbs. Are you getting Spark now? If not the computer is most likely not getting the inputs it needs to run.

There are two switches on the top of the clutch pedal assy, one for the cruise and one for the Starter interlock. Top one is for the starter Bottom one is for the cruise. They both should have little rubber stoppers/bumpers in the bracket. If they are missing, the switch plunger goes right through the hole so the switch does not activate. Yes, there is no Cruise indication on the dash. What you described is normal operation for your Subaru.

Any codes stored in the computer? Check the wires right behind the crank sensor plug. If the insulation is cracked fix it.

I had the same symptoms on the wifes 98 Outback. The fluid was dark, I changed the fluid today and its better. Using a Vac hand pump I pulled the old fluid out of the MC. I replace the fluid with new and then used the Vac pump to pull fluid from the slave cylinder. I also pushed the clutch fork in to help remove the old fluid from the slave cylinder. Now that the new fluid is in there the pedal feel is much better.

Do a search in this form for the code. Lots of post out there.

I think I'll stay with my 95. I took a look at this car today 2003 LLBean http://cosprings.craigslist.org/ctd/1651315086.html Listing for $10,998 @ 81K I thought it may be worth a look. It has an exhaust rumble but other than that it ran well. Looking under neath I could tell it was not a CO car. Yep, the carfax was showing NJ. I love the easy access to everything in my 98 engine bay. Nothing but a pain on the 2003. Just my 2 cents.

Sounds like you have an aftermarket system.

You don't have the PM option yet. My email is Lmdew@hotmail.com Larry

I'd put the Seafoam in but I would just let it idle or drive it under very light loads with the seafoam in. I spun a bearing with seafoam in the oil. I had put it in and then I had to drive it for 15 miles. It spun a bearing. Read the Seafoam directions. It's great stuff. Also try a quality 5-30w oil.

OEM, its plug and play pretty much. You have to splice a couple of wires but that's it. I do have a used unit and aftermarket remote. How's $80 shipped for both. Larry

Look up under the drivers dash. The keyless from Subaru is a 4x5x1" black plastic box. If you have power locks you can put one in. If you don't have power door locks you will need an aftermarket kit.

In the cargo area, pull up the two side panels of the floor. Under them you will see two plastic plugs. Remove the plugs and remove the two 17 or 19mm bolts. The bumper will then pull out.

Take it to an alignment shop and get an estimate. The sway bar should be under a bit of a load when just sitting there. If its loose, something is broken or worn.

Found two of them today, one from a 99 and the other from a 96. 99 has 3 individual plugs that go into it. 22611 AE860 96 has the one large plug 22611 AC461 Let me know which one/s you want. Larry

Good, I didn't know they were that cheap and you didn't have to ship it.

The pipe is held on with two 10 mm bolts along the top. I'd pull the intake as its easy and it will give you open access to change the pipe. I doubt you'd get it out without pulling the intake. I have good rust free ones if you need it. $40 shipped.