lmdew

Test the injectors when the car is cranking. They make test lights just for the injectors. If the injectors are not powered and you have no spark, I'd say the ECU is not getting the inputs it needs. Look at my thread on the Auto to manual swap. You will still have to have the electrical diagram for you cars to trace the wires.

Try unplugging the battery for 24 hours to clear the ECU codes. It shouldn't take this long, but while you are waiting, you can fully charge the battery and then have it tested. With the ECU clear of codes and a good battery try to start the engine. If it cranks but does not fire, try a little gas or starter fluid down the intake and crank again. If the CEL light comes back on have the codes read out. Fuel, Spark. If you did not change all of the wiring out, complete harness, the ECU may have plugged in but it may not be wired the same. Try the old ECU.

Bump to the top, I'm Glad USMB has a search. I'm doing a nother 95 Aubo Manual Swap and needed the info.

Should bolt right up, you will need the caliper mounting bracket as well. The STI are different bolt patterns, but the WRX is 5x100

The pan is sealed on with RTV, no gasket needed. Your oil leak may be the air oil baffle plate on the rear of the engine and not the oil pan. These are prone to leaking. If yours is the plastic version replace it with the metal one and RTV is the seal. You have to pull the engine for this one.

I've seen bad torque bind rip apart front CV joints. Lots of info on TB on the USMB, just do the search as noted above.

I second that one, a good used engine will be much less than doing the machine work and buying the gaskets. Most yards give you a 30 day return. www.car-part.com is a good yard search engine.

Yes, they will pump back up. 5-30 oil is recommended for the Subaru engines. You could also pull the AC and or ALT belt and see is the noise changes.

Why are you doing all this? If the head gaskets are not leaking, almost everything else can be done with the engine in the car. If you need to reseal the oil pan and do the timing belt and cam seals then yes pull the engine. No need for a $150 top end gasket kit unless you are doing the heads and HG.

Is the speedo fixed? The ECU does use a speed input as well. Your car is a manual? You may want to try putting the IAC from the old engine on the new one. Did you get the hoses all routed and the purge canister mounted in the engine compartment and its lines hooked up? Sounds like you may still have a vacuum problem.

How close are you to Salt Lake City? There are 3 good you pull and pay yards in town. Drop in a good 95 2.2 from an auto so it has the EGR. www.car-part.com is a good yard search or junkyarddog.com

That would be my plan, but it was a flip car and several guys at work want it. I don't want to sell it that way, but I guess with full disclosure it's their call. Just wish I knew for sure it was the diff and the condition. It's not worth tearing apart and the gear lube was clean, no fuzz or chunks when I changed the gear lube.

Not much drain on the fuel, if you see a 1 mpg drop in AWD I'd be supprised. The draw is not much, 10-15 amp should be fine. Some folks run around this way, but the AWD system was not designed that way. The C-duty soleniod may go out ahead of time, as it is only energized in a hard turn so you don't have torque bind.

I'd return the engine if its not usable! The keyway is the key to the timing for the crank sprocket. If its just the front of the keyway, you may get away with it as the torque of 125 ft lbs is enough to hold the pulley in place without to much stress on the keyway.

Auto or manual Transmission? Make sure the tires all match and are properly inflated. If you have an auto transmission, you will find a little black fuse holder on the passenger side firewall just behind the front strut tower. If you put a fuse in it, the c-duty selonid will be energized all the time and make it a FWD car. Manual transmissions have a viscous coupler in the trans.

I think the noise is in the front Diff. I found the passenger's side inner CV joint boot torn, so I changed that axle. Still had the noise. I put in the FWD fuse and had the front end on jack stands. By applying brakes and a little gas, I could produce the noise. Sounded like the drivers side outter CV joint, so just to rule it out, I changed that axle again. No change, the noise is still there. Seems to be the worst when turning right and going slow. I'm thinking a chipped tooth in the front Diff. How long will it last? Another Auto to manual trans swap on the way, I think.

The knock sensor is just behind the intake manifold on the drivers side. Look straight down, it's black about 1.25" in dia and has a 12mm bolt. There is an ohm check you can do for resistance. The EGR is also on the manifold, drivers side. With the car running, pull a vacuum and if the idle changes, the valve is clear. Lots of times the valve or line from the cylinder plug. Start with cleaning them if necessary.

You'll need to know what year it is. Most of the repair manuals have the wiring as well. You want the Vanagon section, as they have to strip down to the basic wiring as well. Search there as well.

Not Starting and not turning over are two different things. If you can hear the click of the Start, then as noted above and the engine does not turn over, then the starter contacts are most likely worn and need to be replace. If it is turning over but not starting, it could be fuel related. You should leave the throttle closed, unless the engine flooded somehow. Instead of hitting the shifter, try neutral. It may be that the second attempt sends enough voltage to the starter. Clean the battery terminals and grounds as well.

Yes, it does align the crank shaft gear and pulley. Soak the gear to shaft with PB blaster or the like. Rust can jam them up pretty good. After a good soak, you can try two straight slot screw drivers one on each side of the back flange. Note, that the Oil pump is behind the pulley, so don't go crazy. If it does not move, the next step is the tap the front gear holes and use a puller. You said the key was damaged, have you removed as much damaged as possilbe on the key with a file? If you need a new gear and or pulley let me know I have some spares.

Have you tighten the mount bolts. The front and back are rubber mounted, but the center of the mount is a steel bushing which get pinched between the engine and body mount points.

Auto, Good idea putting in the fuse. No torque bind that I can feel, but it worth checking. Thanks

www.car-parts.com

P1507 Idle Control System Malfunction Speedos on these cars are know for failure. Remove the dash, remove the 4 screws holding the speedo in and clean them one at a time and reinstall. The screws are the electrical connection between the board and the speedo. Recheck all of the plugs and hoses for the 1507. You might also want to clean the IAC.

Make sure you check the trans fluid level, color and smell. If the Trans torque conveter locking up to early could be causing your drag on the engine. It's a long shot, but a possibility.