lmdew

The Drivers side outter CV joint was bad, boot torn, I replaced the axle 2X (used one's I'd re booted). Still sounds like the outter CV Joint is bad. In tight turns it clicks, but only when in drive or Rev. If I put it into neutral as I coast in the tight turn the clicking goes away. I have to get back under to do some more inspection, but I just thought I'd ask and see whatelse could cause this.

If you leave it in park or neutral does it do the same thing? If you drive in Rev does it die as well? I'm thinking it may be a trans issue.

You can try cleaning the IAC as well. Seafoam works well

I have about 6 or so Cranck Shaft pulleys and I think I have a good key as well. $40 shipped Priority mail. Lmdew@hotmail.com

If the price is right. It's very hard to get a good compression test unless the engine is running. It should be up to temp, full charged battery, all plugs removed, throttle wide open and then each cyc checked. It's good that they are all the same, if the plugs look good and the coolant overflow does not show signs of HG failure, I'd have no problem with 170. If you are not at sea level that will make a difference as well. 6200' in Colorado Springs, CO 170 is good

My bet is the cam timing is off a tooth or two! I've had this happen to me, took me forever to troubleshoot it. When I put the timing back where it need to be (and replace the tensioner) its been fine for months.

Could be the temp sensor. Cleaning the IAC is always a good idea. If it has not had normal maintenance (plugs wires air cleaner) do those as well. If it's a sensor cam or crank it should be setting a code and the CEL would be on.

Try shooting a little Starting fluid or gas into the intake. If it starts, it's a fuel problem. Heat to get the moisture out of the gas. Warm Garage overnight would be another good way to check things out.

Front is rotating further than the rear, 10 revs on the front produce about 9 & 13/16 revs on the back. Front 4.11 Rear 3.9 Time for a 4.11 rear. I guess the dealer was wrong.

Any good auto parts store will have a seal remover. I've found driving a small 1/8" screwdriver between the outter lip of the seal and the block will bend the seal out of shape and then you can pry it out with ease. I do this at the top. If your careful, no damage is done to the block and since you are not on the camshaft no damage to the sealing surface. Don't forget to pull the oil pump and locktite the backing plate screws and replace the o-ring.

NZ is way better than FL for a working holiday!

You need to get a 95 2.2 intake manifold with EGR. It will bolt right up to the 93 block and the harness on the 95 Intake will plug into your 97.

Say, if you provide the cold beer and a place to stay I could make it a working Holiday!

No, they are all single cams. I've done 8 or so of these swaps and they are easy. - Ensure the EGR Valve configuration matches your engine, if you have one, you need to have one on the 2.2 engine - If you have a dual port exhaust, but you get a single port exhaust engine, get the y-pipe - If you want the Power steering lines to bolt up factory stock, along the intake manifold, get the power steering lines as well Plug and play!

If you can do a leak down check that would confirm your thoughts and current tests.

You swapped in a 2.2 motor, complete with intake - is this correct? Mark the IAC position, loosen the 2 screws on the top and move it slightly. As long as you have marked it you can go back to the previous setting. Is this a used motor? Was it running OK in the previous car? All the hoses hooked up?

Just flushed a 93 Legacy, in the top and out the bottom. The hard line bolted along the frame rail that points straight up is the top hose-the feed line. The other is the return.

Car info would help. I'd get a second recommendation as many times its not the CAT.

Did you check the back of the drivers side head? The port may be plugged in which case you can pull the plug out and put the ERG on.

Could be fuel, leaking injector, filter, pump. I'd also pull the plugs and inspect them, as nothing I know would cause this amount of water (if that is what it was) to shoot out the exhaust. If it's a head gasket leak, you should smell the Anti freeze when its running. The condition of the plugs will tell you what's going on. Bad Gas? Any Check Engine Light, if so get the codes.

PB Blaster the nuts, let it soak. I like to use tubing wrenches to break thing loose. The plug could be at the head as well. Yep, pretty much have to pull it apart to clean it.

95 2.2 with EGR will bolt and plug right in. Search the site for 2.2 swap, there's tons of info.

If you need a compressor, let me know I have several used ones.

For the dual cam 2.2 engines, I take an old timing belt and cut it then wrap it around the cam and crank gear and pinch the belt together in the middle with a c-clamp or vise grips. Works great for breaking the bolt and torquing the bolt when you put it back together. Hope this helps

Thanks for the info.