lmdew

4 bolts hold the compressor. The bottom two bolts go through a bracket which has another 14mm bolt about 2" back towards the valve cover.

It will mate to the block, but it's a totally different trans as far as the electrics go. Better to stay in the 90-93 range or do the 5 sp swap.

No sealant on the pump cover, Gray RTV on the oil pump housing to engine block. I let it set 24 hours to ensure its cured.

Make sure you are timing the crank with the mark on the back tooth and not the arrow on the front of the crank gear! Read and Learn, no stupid questions.

Use the search on the USMB and you will find tons of info. Yes the auto to manual is a good change and not to hard. Make sure the Rear Diff is changed as well so the gear ratios match. If you can find a complete car non running and then pull the trans and all the other stuff you will need that is best.

I was told NAPA on 8th street in CO Springs does the head work for Subaru in town.

Pull the plugs back out, are they still firing (color of the plugs will tell you what is going on)? Put the recommended plugs in (see above) It could be that the timing has jumped.

Some of the inner boots have a rubber sleeve that is inside the boot. If that came out or you have two, one in the boot and one on the rack, it would be a pain. Those inside boots can be tough.

On the starter. Follow the + battery cable back. Check the Battery voltage, terminal to terminal and note it. Move the positive lead to the starter end of the terminal and check the voltage and record. Now have someone try to start the car, the voltage should not drop but .5 volts or so if the system/wiring is good. If it checks good there, go to the output side of the starter solinoid to the starter motor and do the same. If you are not comfortable checking the system, most autoparts places can check it for you or you can remove your starter and take it to a starter rebuild place and have them check it.

Most likely the starter contacts. Check the voltage drop at the starter and then down stream at the starter motor. Corrosion or pitted contacts in the starter solinoid.

There is a little bypass hose off the water pump as well. Take a good look up at the pump and you can see the leak.

Check the brake and clutch switches. I've had a few that the bumper on the bracket comes out and then the switch goes right through the hole. The cruise unit on the Impreza is right below the AC Dryer. If you have 2 cables going to the throttle body, its there.

In the rust belt if you have done that much work, I'd replace both.

Did you change the clearance? As they sit they will bleed down and it take a while for them to pump back up. Give it time, good 5-30 oil will help.

Axle to stub shaft is held together by a roll pin, just drive it out. The stub shaft to trans is held in with a circle clip, just make sure its there and in good condition and then pop it back in. Yes the axles are the same.

It would help with the YR and Model. The Legacy pumps are under an oval cover in the trunk or under the rear seat. The older DL... are under the body back by the tank. If you pull the fill cap and have someone turn on the key the pump will run until it builds pressure. The only sure way to check the output of the pump is to install a pressure gauge and check the flow rate. Is the CEL on?

Brake, clutch switches. You are putting a Legacy unit into a Impreza/Forster. I believe the Impreza or Forster units are different. I know my 98 OBS mouts the Cruise unit on the passenger frame rail in the engine compartment.

There is a 2 blade connector that is on the RH side of the steering column, its black. It goes to the key lock release coil, it has to be energized to release the key so it will go all the way to the off position. Is your key in the off position?

Get a 97 - 99 Outback with a bad 2.5 engine and have a 95 2.2 engine installed. The 5 sp transmission is a much better option as most folks do not maintain the autos as they should and then the can't figure out why the trans failed at 140K when they have never changed the fluid. If you want to keep the 2.5, motor get a 2002 or later. The 3.0 are good solid motors as well and gas mileage will be about the same. 96-99 bodies and interior room are all about the same. Visit you local dealer and check some of them out then have your contacts go hunting for what you want.

The cam gear may be even harder. Soak it good with PB Blaster or Croil. If you lucky, the holes in the pulley are threaded and you can make a puller. If not you can tap the holes. Or very carefully put two large blade flat screw drivers behind the rim and work it out just a little, then tap it back. Keep on doing this until you break the rust free. Understand the crank seal is right behind the crank gear. I've seen the trashed and a new Oil pump needed.

Search the USMB, you can do the gear without dropping the transmission, but its not a easy job!

You can move the crank and the cams to line the timing up you are not spinning at 3000 RPM as you would be going down the road. If you are turning things by hand and it locks up, STOP and turn it the other way. Put the crank in position, then the cams. Install the new idler pulleys, the new belt and then the toothed idler. Release the tensioner, then rotate the engine in the normal direction, at least 720 degrees and recheck the timing marks on the gears.

Yes Interference Yes most likely bent valves, but it would not hurt to check it a little further and see what the cause was. The Ebay Kits belts and pulleys are good. The only way to tell how much damage there is would be to put it back together and do a compression - leak down check or pull it apart. How many miles on the car?

PCB, they are easy to take apart to change the bulbs, disconnect the cable from the Passenger side heater control, much easier than pulling the cable out of the unit. Search the board for lots of good info on replacing the bulbs. If you need a good replacement let me know I have several spares.

I have not used it, but it looks promising and Cheap! http://www.nmvtis.gov/nmvtis_consumers.html