lmdew

All the Alarms I've removed (I hate aftermarket stuff) put a relay in the main power wire going up to the ignition switch. Black with yellow stripe if my memory is good.

Is the idle RPM increasing when the AC kicks in? I suspect what is happening is that the idle is dropping and killing the engine. When the engine stops you get all the warning lights. The reason is does not do it in P or N is the transmission is not loading the engine as well. The RPM should increase each time the AC clutch engages.

Mine stays clean. If its working fine the seals of the cylinder have to be OK. Strange!

Go to any auto parts place, auto zone, checker... and they will read the codes for Free! Once you have the codes, look them up and or post them here. The codes are the Key! Lots of post here on using only Subaru or NGK wires and NGK plugs.

It's nice when they go well and you can't beat the price you paid for the engine. 1/2 price Wed?

You can do anything, the question is it worth the trouble. Most swaps here are going the other way, Auto to a Manual. You'd need at least the following Starter Transmission Flex Plate and bolts Trans Cross Member Trans Drive Shaft Rear Diff is the gear ratios are different Break Box Trans ECU Associated Wiring This is a large project, it would be best accomplished with a complete doner car to get all the parts

Replaced the small filter and checked the EGR at idle for opening and flow. It checked good and the code has not come back. The Crank Sensor was also flagged, the PO had the car checked several times and the Mechanics had said it need a crank sensor. When I pulled it out I found the 2 wires going to the sensor bare right at the back of the plug. I repaired the wiring and its good to go. Thanks for the assistance!

You should be able to pull one from the You pull and pay yards in SLC. The one out west have half off on Wed!

Are you doing the work yourself? If so, you know the car and its worth fixing it. Much less than new car payments. If you buy used, you don't know what you are getting.

If you are just taking voltage readings your meter can lie to you. To get a true reading you have to check the circuit loaded, or load the circuit when you test it. Here is the tool you need for your meter: http://www.brighterideas.com/ I attended Dan's Training course and it changed the way I look and test electrical problems! I had a 85 BMW 318i that had problems for years, RPM would flux at idle. No fix. My kid used it for several months and the car started killing at random times. New battery, New Grounds... It turned out to be a very corroded + lead of the alternator. I found the problem using the TESLite. 30 minutes later the problems was fixed. Check out some of the videos on his web site.

I have several if you need on, $10 shipped. Larry

Temp Sensor on the Water manifold under the Intake manifold. There is a Temperature Switch, small one with a blade connector and the Temperature Sensor, with the connector.

It could be many things at this mileage. I'd start with the simple things: Seafoam the IAC and intake track Ensure the Plugs and wires are in good condition Clean the MAF sensor Does it do it all the time? Hot or Cold? Other than the idle does it run fine? Is your gas mileage good?

95 auto for sure! You can use other 2.2 as long as you get the 95 manifold and EGR, but you might have to drill and tap the head for the pipe. Not an easy job. Try www.car-part.com or www.junkyarddog.com I just picked up a 95 2.2 with 80K on it for $300 + $200 to ship from FL to CO.

If you leave it in P or N when the engine is cold does it rev normally? Is your idle high when the engine is cold, approx 1500RPM?

You can pull the return line, the one with the rubber hose. Block the PS pump side and route the other side into a jug. Start the engine, the pump should be flowing fluid as the steering is turned back and forth. Don't run the pump dry!

Change the hoses! The engine pulls coolant back into the engine when it cools. You should be able to see this if you check the coolant level when hot and then recheck when its cold. You might also want to change the radiator cap.

I think the 2.5 has the flat bottom and the 2.2 has the rounded bottom. The bolt pattern is the same. You will need a tube of RTV and there is a cup seal that sits over a tube in the back. Subaru item.

Inner Tierod boot just pulls off. Clamp at one end, the inner side slides over a grove in the rack housing. I believe the inner tie rod connection unscrews, but there is a locking tab there you have to take care of. You might find a good used rack cheaper than the tie rod new. The outter tie rod to hub connection can be seperated with a pickle fork or by holding a sledge on one side and hitting the other side with a large hammer, after you pulled the nut of course.

Clean it and see where the oil is leaking from. Slight oil leaks at the head gasket are unlikely to catch fire, they don't leak that much and oil doesn't burn well. Other sources of leaks: Valve cover gaskets, Cam rear cover on the passenger side Power Steering Pump Cam and Crank shaft seals up front Rear Air/Oil Seperator Plate. With the exception of the last one, all can be done with the engine in the car at not much costs.

Thanks for the info, I'm on the road for the week so it will be a bit before I can get back to the car. I'll check as advised and see what I can find out. Thanks Again!

The car had this code when I got it. I cleared the code, P0400 EGR and it was gone for about 100 miles. A shop had put a new EGR Valve on it before I got it. I checked all the vacuum lines, and changed the following off another 2.5 manifold I had: EGR Valve EGR Solenoid EGR Transducer (round part above and forward of the EGR volve. I also blew out the lines and checked for leaks. I drove it about 30 miles with the D-Check (green connector) hooked up and it passed the check. Three days later (200 miles) , the code is back :>( What to check next? PS I sold this car, but want to fix this problem for the new owner. I thought I had it fixed. Thanks Larry

I've never had a problem on the 2.2 engine. I start at the crank pulley, put it around the Tensioner and over to the Drivers side cam and around the water pump. Then the other side goes on. The cam gear can be rotated slightly to tighten the belt, and then I roll the toothed idler gear in position on the belt and install the bolt. Double check all the timing marks, shift the tensioner over and tighten the bolts and pull the tensioner pin. Double check the timing marks again and turn it over by hand 2X.

I use a section of an old timing belt an go around the crank gear to the Cam Gear and clamp the TB loop in the middle with a vise grips. Works great, Free Tool.