lmdew

Check the gear lube in the front diff and check the axles for play at both ends. You may also want to try disconnecting the rear drive shaft. Check the trans fluid level as well. Where did you get the axles from? Some users have reported vibs after they replaced the axles with discount part store axles.

If you went full stroke on the MC when bleeding the brakes most likely you will need a new MC. The bore wears over time and all the junk is pushed to the end of the stroke. When you go full stroke, which does not happen normally, the seals get into this stuff. I have 3 or 4 spares, let me know if you need one.

Gb444 Fuel System Treatment. Always behind the counter, you have to ask for it. I had the same problem on my 98 OBS, this fixed the rought idle. Larry

LugsSpacingMake and Model5100BUICK SKYLARK 1989-ON 5x100 5100CHEVY CAVALIER, CORSICA / BERETTA 1989-ON 5x100 5100CHRYSLER SEBRING, CIRRUS 1996-ON 5x100 5100DODGE STRATUS, SHADOW, DAYTONA, GLH, SPIRIT, CARAVAN, NEON 1994-ON 5x100 5100OLDS SKYHAWK, ACHIEVA 1989-ON 5x100 5100PLYMOUTH NEON, SUNDANCE, BREEZE, ACCLAIM, VOYAGER 1994-ON 5x100 5100PONTIAC SUNFIRE, SUNBIRD, GRAND AM 1989-1998 5x100 5100Scion tC5100SUBARU LEGACY, IMPREZA, OUTBACK, FORESTER, WRX STi 2004, XT5100Toyota Camry to 1991, Celica 1990+, Celica All-Trac & GTS 1988-1989, Matrix, Prius 2004+, Corolla 2003+5100Volkswagen Golf 1993+, Jetta 1999-2005, Passat GLX 1990-1997, CORRADO, New Beetle

I've gotten a few off Ebay, never any problems.

Pass it by, getting the dog smell out will most likely require you to replace the interior, carpet, seats.... $300 tops

Yes the flywheel bolts are longer than the flex plate bolts. I have a set, but I'm in Colorado. The Subaru Dealer will have them for you. If you want a set $15 shipped.

Jack the front of the car as high as you can when you fill it, it will help get the air out. Fill it slow. When its full squeeze the top hose to pushe the air out and draw the fluid back in. Keep on doing this until there are no more air bubbles.

Did you turn the drums? If not, there is a lip you will have to get over the shoes. I put them on with the shoes as far out as possible and still get the drum to slide on. Pull the Ebrake handle up to the first tooth, then you can adjust throught the back slot (rubber plug) until the shoes just start to drag. When you release the Ebrake you will have clearance so you do not have drag on the shoes. This whole thing is not so critical since its just the Ebrake.

Thanks, Emily, I sent her your PM. You are Great Folks! Larry

Looking for a FWD Transmission 92 Legacy. It has an auto in it, but I know good auto's are hard to find so a manual will do. Less the 200K please. If you see one, please let me know. Thanks, Larry

Get your car to a Subaru Mechanic. If everything was working fine before he took it apart there is no reason for it to lock up. These are interference engines so if the timing is off, the piston will hit the valve. Who's paying for all of this extra work?

Try the bypass as listed above. If that works, its an electrical problem keeping the shift lock engauged.

She posted on the Criagslist, she lost her job, 2 kids, single mom. Her CEL is on, I had her get the code pulled at Autozone, its the knock sensor on her Forster. Very low on cash but willing to give hair cuts in exchange. If you could put a used sensor on that would be great. PM me and I'll send you her email. Thanks, Larry Here's her address 1219 missouri ave. longmont co 80501

Make sure the cable is not tight on the throttle. You may have to clean the IAC again.

Then you're in PA rust add a day or two. I just did a 92 turbo sedan and it took 2x as long as a NA, just dealing with all the turbo stuff. Wires and all about 25 hours.

Colorado auto parts has a nice selection, but is poor to work as there is little organization to the car's location, they are all on the ground so it's hard to get parts when you have to get under the car. Just my experiences there.

You Pull and Pay in COS. You can check their inventory online. Nice!

Tirerack might have the info for you. I've used the WRX stock wheels on the Legacy's. They work fine.

If you can, JF1GG68522H835556 2002 Impreza Outback Sport Lmdew@hotmail.com Thanks, Larry

Rod Knock: some good information, but I'd recommend pulling the connector from the fuel injector rather than shorting the ignition: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20486

Yes, but the WRX Struts are different than the Non-WRX Impreza, thus the changes required.

I've done a few of these swaps and they work well. The rear top hats have to be changed over, the front struts bolt right in. In the past, the rear camber was always out some due to the longer strut. On this installation, I slotted the top bolt hole a little under an 1/8". I bolted a spare hub into the strut on the bench and set the hub hole an 1/8 in on the top (towards the Strut). When I got the alignment done it was at -1.8 and I was able to lossen both bolts and pull the top of the wheel out a little to get the correct setting. I think a 1/16 off set would be enough. You can get camber bolts, but they are so little I hate to put them in. If it shifts over time, I'll post back. It seems solid as can be.

I've done a few of these swaps and they work well. The rear top hats have to be changed over, the front struts bolt right in. In the past, the rear camber was always out some due to the longer strut. On this installation, I slotted the top bolt hole a little under an 1/8". I bolted a spare hub into the strut on the bench and set the hub hole an 1/8 in on the top (towards the Strut). When I got the alignment done it was at -1.8 and I was able to lossen both bolts and pull the top of the wheel out a little to get the correct setting. I think a 1/16 off set would be enough. You can get camber bolts, but they are so little I hate to put them in. If it shifts over time, I'll post back. It seems solid as can be.

Yep, went into 3rd, still in drive all the time. I'll replace the switch before I pull the trans. Thanks for the suggestions.