lmdew

Easy enough to check the timing with the engine out, just pull the two side covers and check the cam marks. You might try the aviation opposed engine trick and stake the valves, put a brass drift on the valve rocker when the valve is closed and give it a good rap. The valve will open and spring back, seating the valve. A compression check by hand, engine cold is not very reliable. Did the yard give you a 30 Day? With that low of mileage, I'd put it in and start it up.

Unplug at the TCU or the 2 trans connectors in the engine bay? It does drive fine in FWD, its just always in gear, thus no reverse. It would be nice if it was an easy fix, but the PO ran the trans low on fluid due to a leaking hose. I'm thinking there may be internal damage. This is why I was thinking swap.

The Codes for the TCU are for the Speed Sensor, 32 and 33 if my memory is correct. Nothing is easy, the speed sensor Josh listed is good, the shaft turn inside the transmission, which indicates the speedometer gears are stripped. I did one of these before, was a pain. Looks like another Auto to Manual Trans swap is in order.

I'll gladly pay shipping. I'll PM you my address. Thanks, Larry

How bad is it damaged? Its thin metal you may be able to bend it back. If not, I'd get a used one from the junk yard, just cut it out and then overlap the old one and bolt or rivet the new one in. If you want a professional job so you can sell the car that's a different story.

Get a clear 3/8 plastic line. You can pull the bottom radiator trany hose, to flush the radiator cooler as well. Put the line from the radiator into a gallon jug (see through). Drain, then fill the transmission with new fluid. Start the engine, let a couple of quarts pump out. Stop the enging and refil the trans. Keep doing this until clean new fluid comes out. If your quick or have help, you can shift the trans through all the gears while its running and keep on filling the trans as the same rate as the old fluid is coming out. Just don't run the trans out of fluid.

Just put a Subaru tach in your cluster.

Sounds like you may have the viscous coupling in the trans locking up. Make sure all tires have the same pressure. Try it in reverse, is it the same? Did they check the CV Joints? Look for torn boots Check the Differential Gear Oil, front and rear If that all checks out, you may want to pull the 4 bolts at the rear drive shaft to differential coupling and see if the problems goes away.

Thanks for the effort to put this all together!

Thanks for the effort to put this all together!

Pressure bleeders work great. Search the web, you can find instructions to make one or buy one for about $100.00. It's then a one person job. If you get a vaccum pump you can also suck all the old fluid out of the MC and start with fresh.

Thanks, I'll check the codes and fix the speedo.

The PO said reverse was out. After getting the car and doing a little checking, the trans was almost out of fluid due to a leaking hose at the radiator connection. I replaced the hose and filled the trans. Even before I did this, the car ran great and shifted well in all forward gears. Doing a little more checking, with trans fluid now up to the correct level, the trans is always in forward gear. In Park, the engine starts to stall at about 2500 RPM In Reverse, the car will not move as the trans is fighting itself In Neutral, the car goes forward In Drive the car shifts through all the gears as it should and if I manually shift from gear to gear they all work fine. The PO also said the speedo quit working about a day before this happened. The Power light is flashing 16 times when I start the car. I have not figured out how to pull the trans codes yet. Any Ideas?

It should be as long as the wheels and tires clear.

Is this the good place? Axle Sale http://denver.craigslist.org/pts/734203535.html

Get some Sea Foam and pour it in the 1" hose going to the IAC. Let it soak a bit and then start the car. You can block most of the hose and let a little more Sea Foam be pulled through as it runs.

Anyone near this address that could hold a set of Subaru Wheels and Tires for a week and a half? I purchased these and paid with PayPal. I'm in Milwaukee WI for the next week and can not get up to Denver to pick them up. If someone is close by that could hold them that would be great. S. Andes Wy Aurora, CO 80013 Thanks, Larry Lmdew@hotmail.com

That will be the easy way to go. I did my 98 with a early 90 Legacy. The attachment for the ebrake to drum was different, so I cut a short piece of heater hose to make the couplings stay together. It's working fine, but the next time I'd just grab the ebrake cables as well. All the ones I've looked at are the same up in the car and you should not have a problem with the length.

That's it, single plug about 1/4" wide. The other half may still be tapped up to the harness. It's there.

Connect the black connectors close by the green one. Green puts the car in the D-Check mode, cycles through all the relays and sensors. Black will pull the codes Green and black at the same time will clear the codes

No but if there are a great deal, you should pick them up for my 98 Impreza OBS. Larry

Thanks for the info.

I have a 92 Turbo Legacy Automatic, and someone put trans fluid in it. It trashed the gears. It's my lucky day, as my local yard has a 92 Turbo with a good front Diff. How hard is it to swap? Can I swap the complete front case and diff as a unit so its properly set? Thanks, Larry

Someone put trans fluid in the front Diff. When I jack all 4 wheels, I could put it in gear and all 4 turned. The front wheels had a jerky movement as the Diff went in and out of gear. I drained the trans it looked good, then drained the front diff, which also had trans fluid and lots of gear chunks. Anyone have a front Diff for a 92 Turbo Auto Trans?

The dash has to come out. Not to bad. What year? I may have one for you. If you pull one out from a yard, you will then know how to do it on y our car. Did the shop evacuate the system for you? R12 or R134? If you have never done this job, plan on a full day.