lmdew

Push the dust boot up and see if the strut is leaking. If its wet, you have lost the fluid. I'd also check the top mount, jack the car from the frame so the wheel hangs down and then check for play up and down. Check to see if the sway bar is in good conditions and links.

If you don't find one, I've got several. $20 shipped. Larry

Make sure the Starter bolt/stud configuration is the same. Single port or dual port exhaust on both engines. Other than that it should plug and play.

What section? The y pipe or the section just behind it? Single O2 Sensor or Dual O2 sensors on the Cat? I believe it should be dual O2 sensors. I may have one for you if you can wait 2 weeks until I be home.

UP

If you're still having problems let me know. I'm out of town for 2 weeks, but my son may be able to come down from Fort Collins and have a look.

It will not drive. I'm out of town for the next 2 weeks, so I paid the guy and will pick it up when I get back. Then the investigation will start!

Picked up 92 Turbo Sedan 142K on it. The PO thought the CV were bad, but it sounds like a transmission to me. When you put it in gear, you can hear a light grinding, kind of like swinging your ratchet around by the socket. It does shift into R and D, the sound changes slightly. No movement on the car. I was not able to get under the car to see what the status of the driveline was, but the front CV were not turning. Any ideas?

I'd take it back to the shop that caused the problem and tell them to fix it! If it was damage done by the shop they should correct it. If its a wire issue inside the pan, a new valve body may not fix it. What code are they getting from the TCU? A good trans shop or you Subaru dealer should be able to isolate the fault. Wiring can be very time consuming to troubleshoot.

I got the ECU pin out from a Michaels CD at an auto shop.

Yes, first I had the EGR code. Once I set the ECU to a manual trans, it needed the neutral SW.

Might have one for you, what length and do you need the front rear or both? I parted a 97 OBS.

It's good. I cut wire 78 about a foot from the ECU, 4.75 volts out of the ECU. Wired it to the neutral sw and the sw to ground. The ECU is getting what it wants, no CEL. Thanks for the help.

The pin out is different from the 95 ECU to 97 ECU so I put the 95 ECU back in. I'm going to cut wire 78 today, I'm thinking it may already be grounded somewhere and if its cut then I may see the 5.0 volts from the ECU. If that works, then all I have to do is wire it to the neutral sw. I think you ment ECU not TCU in the post above. Thanks for the info.

The ECU looks for the switching of 5 volts in neutral, 0 volts when in gear. I'm thinking the 5 volts should be coming from the ECU and when grounded through the neutral sw it's 0 volts. I just don't know why the 5 Volts is not at pin 78.

Updated initial post, help is needed! Thanks

[ ] <> ( ) Sledge Hammer = [ ] A-Arm at the ball joint = <> BFH = ( ) Holding the sledge against the a-arm helps keep the force of the hammer you are swinging in the A-Arm tapper. It will pop out most of the time.

Put a sledge on one side, beat the other with a BFH as well. The force will be maximized in the tapper. A jack on the bottom of the stud doesn't hurt.

Disconnect the Battery Open the center counsel cover, remove the two screws that hold the parking brake handle in. Remove the Parking Brake handle Remove the Shifter Panel Cover, two screws at the rear Remove the Ash Tray and the two screws under the front lip of the ash tray slide. Open the Cup holder, Remove the 2 screws, pull the cup holder out. The radio trim panel is now free, move it out of the way The radio is held in with 6 screws, 4 you will see on the front metal brackets, the other 2 are in the middle at the back of each side bracket. Use a magnet to keep track of the screws. The radio/CD is now ready to be pulled forward. Remove the plugs. Put it back in reverse order.

I have a good one, $75 plus shipping, about $40. Lmdew@hotmail.com

It would be interesting if someone froze the bearing and heated the hub to 250 or so. Lots of interference parts are put together this way and it should make it a slip fit. Then you would only have to press in the hub.

Start now with weekly applications of PB Blaster and the bolts might come out. It's great when I get to work on a Colorado Car, instead of the rust belt stuff. Life is good!

Is the Check Engine Light on? If so get the code and post or search this form. That's the best way to do it. The computer wants to help fix your problem.

Yes, I've driven the car about 150 miles, on and off over 15 times. I've cleared the codes 2x now. I'll keep on doing it and see what happens. Legacy777 swap page is good, but yes its for OBDI not OBDII. The search continues. Thanks for the ideas!

No, the 95 engine complete with manifold and sensors went into the 99. The 97 engine, complete with manifold and sensors went into the 95. The 97 block does not have the EGR port machined and the Manifold has the EGR blanked off.