lmdew

Yes, you have to lift the engine. If you pull the exhaust down and remove the engine mount bolts you can jack up the engine from below and then put blocks under the engine mount bolt to hold it up. I'd also remove the rear upper dog bone link. RTV is the seal for the pan, make sure the surfaces are clean and give it 24 hours to cure.

I take them to 125 or higher.

Go with CCR if you are going to put in that much money! Then you have a new engine not just new heads

1/8" would be a little much, but they do bend slightly. You may have over tightened the bolts. You can pick up the metal one off a early 90's 2.2 and replace the plastic.

Sounds like it could be the coupling. Is the rack bleed (turn it lock to lock as the pump is running. Did the binding go away with the front end off the ground? Doing this will unload the rack, if the binding is still present I'd say it was the coupling.

Happy Holidays. If someone can email a report on: VIN: 4S3BK6359S6359795 That would be appreciated. Lmdew@hotmail.com

The tooth idler looks like it is losing grease. This is the idler that fails the most. Did you check it?

OBS is doing great! STI Struts, Rear Disk, GT Wheels and Tires. Yes, I don't know why the DMV could not find it in CO. The Carfax should show history of what state/states it was registered in and the current State. If someone can run this it would be great. I'm still locked out of the monthly unlimited checks.

Thanks USMB, found the info I was looking for! I'm having trouble getting a good title for this car and now Colorado say's it can not find the car in the system. JF1GC2249PB512748 Thanks, Lmdew@hotmail.com

You Pull it Yards $35 or so and if they leak, most have 30 day exchanges. You can drop one in about 30 minutes, and Install in another 30.

Replace it, good used ones are easy to grab at the yard. When you hook up the hard lines, make sure the oring is in good shape and unclamp the flex lines and hook them one at a time. Easy to cross thread, so start them by hand.

Can you here the injector clicking? Have you checked the voltage at the injector? I have some 98 2.5 injectors, don't know if they are the same or not

Thanks, Larry

It's been so long since I've been into a Subaru that is low miles, I forget if the RH idler with the red seal goes top or bottom. This motor has two black pulleys that need to be replaced.

If you want the BEST rebuild, go to http://www.ccrengines.com in Denver. If you want to do it on the cheap, get a 95 2.2 out of an auto trans car (with the EGR valve) and swap it in. Works Great!

Check the Crank and Cam Sensors. You should have a CEL light on if these are out, but you never know. The Crank Sensor triggers the spark I believe.

It is an OBDII car. Have Auto Zone or one of the parts houses check it out. Also many of the Trans shops will check it for free.

I have a good used Alt if you want it. $30+shipping

I use the Off bug spray bottle, the thin plastic one, pull the pump nozzel off and there is a 1/8 or so straight fitting, that hooks to the vaccum line perfect. I keep the bottle level or hose up slightly and let the vaccum pull the water out until the bottle is sucked flat. Works great.

It should center, if not there is something wrong with the bearing.

Put a bolt into the brake rotor and let it catch on the caliper bracket. Works great on the front with the vented disk.

Good deal, but the 99-2001 Impreza's have more electrical issues than the other years. Mostly from the computer limits being set so tight for emissions.

It's Easy to remove and the Airbag does not have to be replaced. Make sure the steering wheel is straight ahead before you start. Disconnect the battery for at least an hour to be safe Look on the side of the steering wheel you will see two bolts which hold the airbag on, loosen them, they are captive so they will not come out. Pull the airbag off the steering wheel and disconnect the wires Disconnect the other wires that may be there for the cruise control. Remove the center nut and use a puller to pull the steering wheel. Put it all back together.

If you have your old cable, pull the center core and put it in the drive coming off the trans. Move the car and make sure its rotating, if not it could be a failure of the extension or the internal drive gear. (I thought the 97 had an electronic speedo, but you have a cable). If its not turning, pull the drive extension and then look down the hole as you move the car and see if the speedo drive shaft is turning. If it does not turn, its the drive gear in the trans. If the trans was rebuilt, I'd go back to the shop.

Just to the right (sometimes Left) of the steering column you will see one set of single black connector and one set that is green. If these have never been used, they are often still taped up to the main harness. Just a single plug connector M/F one green one black.